Uncomfortable driver seat?

[ev_go123]

They look good but are not shipped to the UK.
I am 6'4" and 240 pounds. I find the side padding ( which I sit on) a little firm but usually OK. However, I am suffering from trapped sciatic nerves ( not the cars fault) and so a cushion such as you describe, could be a good solution.

Might be able to get it on ebay: Purple Simply Seat Cushion 1.25" | eBay

I also have the wrong version linked in my last post, I got the Purple Simply Seat Cushion not the royal. The royal is like 60% thicker so it will sit even higher and the thinner simply had enough cushion for me.

 

[Wattsisname]

Might be able to get it on ebay: Purple Simply Seat Cushion 1.25" | eBay

I also have the wrong version linked in my last post, I got the Purple Simply Seat Cushion not the royal. The royal is like 60% thicker so it will sit even higher and the thinner simply had enough cushion for me.

Thank you.

 

[Georgesb2]

They look good but are not shipped to the UK.
I am 6'4" and 240 pounds. I find the side padding ( which I sit on) a little firm but usually OK. However, I am suffering from trapped sciatic nerves ( not the cars fault) and so a cushion such as you describe, could be a good solution.

For back problems such as sciatic nerves (which I also have), I think more than modification of the bottom seat cushion is in order. I did that, I modified the bottom seat cushion very much with a completely different foam plus foam blocks. Then I removed and replaced the lumbar air pump bags with my own custom foam and I added foam to the upper part of the seat back, finally I bent the headrest rearwards. All good now.

 

[Georgesb2]

In addition to my seat bottom modification, I finally modified the upper seat back on the driver's side of my 22 M3P.
I removed the lumbar support and inserted two foam blocks. One horizontally but well above where the lumbar support height. And a vertically orientated block of foam as high as I could get it, centered and all the way down to the horizontal block. It feels wonderful! Luxurious! and helps reduce back pain.

 

[Jackdforme]

I got a purple simple car pillow and turned it vertical so that it sits in the middle of the bottom cushion. It supports me and lifts my thighs up just enough to not get the bowl feeling and that pressure on the back from it. $60

 

[ev_go123]

I got a purple simple car pillow and turned it vertical so that it sits in the middle of the bottom cushion. It supports me and lifts my thighs up just enough to not get the bowl feeling and that pressure on the back from it. $60

Yeah I've been using mine for a month or two, amazing how comfortable it its, even if it means the bottom seat heater is effectively useless.

Just remember to be careful with summer temps, they say it's not supposed to go above 105F.

 

[J Neptune]

My model 3 seats are extremely uncomfortable. In 1 week I have developed sciatic pain and have stopped driving the car. I’m searching for upholsters who can help with the seat. My previous Honda Accord had better seats than Model 3. I never had this problem with any of my cars. I see many people have complained about the quality of the seats and lower back pains, yet there is no action. Perhaps a class action is the way to go.

I see by the dislikes, you are going against the grain of tesla is the bestest of all bestest vehicle in the world. Bentley quality, Ferrari speed, and Elon musk cool. Lol

You honestly cannot compare the build qualities on seats and fit compared to companies that been doing it for decades. If my Model Y was a gas car, it a level down from top of line Honda CRV. That said, my Toyota has really thin seats. Hondas have thick seats, heavy doors.

 

[Hazmatt42]

Yeah I've been using mine for a month or two, amazing how comfortable it its, even if it means the bottom seat heater is effectively useless.

Just remember to be careful with summer temps, they say it's not supposed to go above 105F.

Hi ev_go123,

I have a similar problem to people here. I'm tall (6'3") and otherwise lean, but my hip bones seem wider than those for whom this the Model Y seats were built. The base seat side bolsters dig in - i think I'm feeling the metal seat through the padding - and I get pain after 20-30 minutes in the drivers seat. Didn't pick it up on the short test drive. I end up sitting on one of the bolsters to stop this but that causes lower-back discomfort after a similar amount of time.

Could you share a photo of the simply cushion in your drivers seat? I'd like to see how it fits as it's an expensive option to buy in Australia as I think this could be a temporary fix for me. I also have long legs and am not sure if there'd be enough depth to the purple simply cushion.

Also, you mentioned in a previous post you were considering putting foam between the metal springs and seat cushion to raise the middle section - did you try that? Any joy?

Appreciate the insight.

Thanks!

 

[ev_go123]

Hi ev_go123,

I have a similar problem to people here. I'm tall (6'3") and otherwise lean, but my hip bones seem wider than those for whom this the Model Y seats were built. The base seat side bolsters dig in - i think I'm feeling the metal seat through the padding - and I get pain after 20-30 minutes in the drivers seat. Didn't pick it up on the short test drive. I end up sitting on one of the bolsters to stop this but that causes lower-back discomfort after a similar amount of time.

Could you share a photo of the simply cushion in your drivers seat? I'd like to see how it fits as it's an expensive option to buy in Australia as I think this could be a temporary fix for me. I also have long legs and am not sure if there'd be enough depth to the purple simply cushion.

Also, you mentioned in a previous post you were considering putting foam between the metal springs and seat cushion to raise the middle section - did you try that? Any joy?

Appreciate the insight.

Thanks!

This is how I normally have it. It sticks out a lot in a bunch of places but the material is very soft and pliable so it doesn't bother me:

It's a bit longer on one side, so this is if you put it with the longer side going front to back (vs the privious picutres, which is longer side left/right). I don't like it like this as much because the leading edge sticks out a bit too much. However I'd image you could pretty easily cut the gel inside to shape it a bit better.

I haven't gotten around to putting the foam under the seat, I think I'll need to remove the 4 mounting screws holding the seat down and lift the seat back in order to access the underside more easily (for model 3, model y might have room).

 

[fiehlsport]

Wish we could just swap a Volvo seat in and call it a day. Really any German sport seat for that matter, they are low and contoured for shoulder/mid back support with flat bottom-cushions.

Adding a seat pad wouldn't work for me as I'm already sitting high, any higher and I'm looking into the visor.

When I lean back into my Tesla seats I always wonder who these were made for, the seatback bolstering doesn't correspond with any part of my spine or shoulders whatsoever.

 

[Georgesb2]

I completely rebuilt my seats. I have a Model 3 but this applies to all models.
I pulled the seat bottom cushion out of the car.
I "tore off" the faux leather off the foam cushion.
I swapped a cushion from a car that I know to have good seat bottom.
I "sewed" the faux Tesla leather into the replacement.
I did add some additional foam blocks below that.
I added some foam into the upper seat back.
I bent the headrest back.

 

[Mandingo]

I had severe discomfort (left leg Sciatic pain) when I first took delivery of my 2023MYLR and I was wondering if this was going to tarnish my entire Tesla experience. It has since been improved by following a few things when I drive - note that each person’s solution is likely as different as our body shapes so YMMV:

1) I sit as far back into the seat as possible
2) My left leg (which is one that gave me pain) is bent 90 degrees at the knee and pointed off/resting to the side with my knee touching the door bin
3) I make sure I move my legs a little every ~5 minutes (change angle, stretch) to ensure I am getting good circulation

My suspicion is that there is compression over the Sciatic nerve from the left seat bolster when my legs are both extended and my left foot is on the foot rest - by using this 90 degree angle the pressure is applied differently. I find this much more comfortable … and yes, it is ridiculous we are having to find a way to make the driver’s seat bearable. I just did a 1,900 mile round trip in my wife’s Audi Q7 with no issues but the Tesla gives me Sciatica in 30 minutes.

 

[Georgesb2]

I had severe discomfort (left leg Sciatic pain) when I first took delivery of my 2023MYLR and I was wondering if this was going to tarnish my entire Tesla experience. It has since been improved by following a few things when I drive - note that each person’s solution is likely as different as our body shapes so YMMV:

1) I sit as far back into the seat as possible
2) My left leg (which is one that gave me pain) is bent 90 degrees at the knee and pointed off/resting to the side with my knee touching the door bin
3) I make sure I move my legs a little every ~5 minutes (change angle, stretch) to ensure I am getting good circulation

My suspicion is that there is compression over the Sciatic nerve from the left seat bolster when my legs are both extended and my left foot is on the foot rest - by using this 90 degree angle the pressure is applied differently. I find this much more comfortable … and yes, it is ridiculous we are having to find a way to make the driver’s seat bearable. I just did a 1,900 mile round trip in my wife’s Audi Q7 with no issues but the Tesla gives me Sciatica in 30 minutes.

Yes,
That issue is far more common than most people know. I get contacted regularly. I talk it over with people all over the country suffering. We try to figure out an approach. If you have sciatica, I think you also must address back and back alignment, in addition to the seat bottom pain. I totally rebuilt the seat bottom, it wasn't enough. But for the seat bottom could temporarily get a pad or something to lift you up out of the depression between the two bolsters, especially towards the rear of the seat bottom cushion.
But it's really really really important it the way your back sits into the upper seat!
I saw a cool video of a guy that uses only a towel.
The idea is to get your back alignment more proper. The worst possible back shape is a "C", where your head and neck are forward and the hips are also forwards and the lower / middle back is arched in a forwards C shape. This badly compresses your discs in your spine. When combined with a seat bottom with no suspension as is the stock seat, you are set up to compress back discs and impinge the nerves that run down the legs.
The following video I recently found. Both methods are temporary but very useful to determine a way forward.
I would also completely compress the stock Lumbar inflation device. It gets in the way.

 

[DanDi58]

The worst possible back shape is a "C", where your head and neck are forward and the hips are also forwards and the lower / middle back is arched in a forwards C shape. This badly compresses your discs in your spine.

This seems counterintuitive. I'd think the opposite would be true - that the shape would tend to open the space between the discs vs compress it. But I'm no doctor.

 

[Georgesb2]

This seems counterintuitive. I'd think the opposite would be true - that the shape would tend to open the space between the discs vs compress it. But I'm no doctor.

I also thought it was counter intuitive.
I got this information from a book.
The book that I have and I referenced is: "8 Steps to a Pain Free Back" By Esther Gokhale
I think the key to understanding is that there's a wedge shaped disc at the bottom and also we need to understand the spine as being in front of the spinal column. If then the back is slouched or "C" shaped (the C facing forwards when looking from the side view), the wedge will squeeze the disc into the nerves of the spinal column which is located just behind the discs.
That's the reason for lumbar support. To prevent the back from slouching into the "forward facing "C" shape". A lumbar support in the correct height for your body and hip height, will give a slight reverse arch to the lower back instead of the slouch or C shape which incorrectly pressures the disc(s).
I made a video about what I learned as well. That video is here and explains it all with diagrams:

Another good youtube video that is more scientific is here:

Again, it's important to note that in the situation where the top of the hips are tilted backwards into the upper seat and the bottom of the hips are tilted forwards, (the hip is rotated counter clockwise if you were to view it from the side, from the passenger seat viewpoint) or say the butt is slid forwards, you get that slouch or forward C shaped lower back. That causes the discs to compress from the front towards the back and to squeeze the disc materials backwards into the spinal column where the nerves pass through.
It it the pressure on the nerves that can cause a lot of pain and a lot of referred pain all the way from that point down as far as the feet!
You want your butt all the way back into the seat and have a S shaped spine, with the lordosis curvature, NOT a forward facing C shaped lower back.
The picture attached is a side view, imagine looking from the passenger side.
You'll see the natural S shape of the spine.
Please click on the picture to expand it so that you can fully see the shape.

 

[ohniner]

I also thought it was counter intuitive.
I got this information from a book.
The book that I have and I referenced is: "8 Steps to a Pain Free Back" By Esther Gokhale
I think the key to understanding is that there's a wedge shaped disc at the bottom and also we need to understand the spine as being in front of the spinal column. If then the back is slouched or "C" shaped (the C facing forwards when looking from the side view), the wedge will squeeze the disc into the nerves of the spinal column which is located just behind the discs.
That's the reason for lumbar support. To prevent the back from slouching into the "forward facing "C" shape". A lumbar support in the correct height for your body and hip height, will give a slight reverse arch to the lower back instead of the slouch or C shape which incorrectly pressures the disc(s).
I made a video about what I learned as well. That video is here and explains it all with diagrams:

Another good youtube video that is more scientific is here:

Again, it's important to note that in the situation where the top of the hips are tilted backwards into the upper seat and the bottom of the hips are tilted forwards, (the hip is rotated counter clockwise if you were to view it from the side, from the passenger seat viewpoint) or say the butt is slid forwards, you get that slouch or forward C shaped lower back. That causes the discs to compress from the front towards the back and to squeeze the disc materials backwards into the spinal column where the nerves pass through.
It it the pressure on the nerves that can cause a lot of pain and a lot of referred pain all the way from that point down as far as the feet!
You want your butt all the way back into the seat and have a S shaped spine, with the lordosis curvature, NOT a forward facing C shaped lower back.
The picture attached is a side view, imagine looking from the passenger side.
You'll see the natural S shape of the spine.
Please click on the picture to expand it so that you can fully see the shape.

First thank you for all your extremely informative posts. I'm a retired racer used to working on my own cars and very recently purchased a new 2023 M3P (had to have that extra power). Like a lot of others and not unusual for me the driver seat cushion left bolster irritates a chronic issue. I'm 6ft 165lbs but the seat gets me because as you know the cushioning is soft and the supporting spring is weak. Step one for me is to wedge in some stiffeners from the underneath to keep me higher in the seat. I want to do this by removing the seats hold down bolts, leaving all electrical connected and just tilt the seat forward.
Will this trigger any faults? Breaking a ground connection? Or as others have said trigger an airbag (can see how)?
Lastly I understand seat bolts lactited in so heat gun needed?
Again, thanks

 

[Georgesb2]

First thank you for all your extremely informative posts. I'm a retired racer used to working on my own cars and very recently purchased a new 2023 M3P (had to have that extra power). Like a lot of others and not unusual for me the driver seat cushion left bolster irritates a chronic issue. I'm 6ft 165lbs but the seat gets me because as you know the cushioning is soft and the supporting spring is weak. Step one for me is to wedge in some stiffeners from the underneath to keep me higher in the seat. I want to do this by removing the seats hold down bolts, leaving all electrical connected and just tilt the seat forward.
Will this trigger any faults? Breaking a ground connection? Or as others have said trigger an airbag (can see how)?
Lastly I understand seat bolts lactited in so heat gun needed?
Again, thanks

The four seat bolts are installed in the factory with their locktite on the threads. The first time you remove the bolts you simply need a long arm on the ratchet wrench or a "breaker bar" made for this purpose. Do not use heat of any kind.

Make sure you use the proper sized torx, which might be 45, and a good ratchet wrench or breaker bar attached.

The seat can be rocked backwards for access to the bottom after the four bolts are removed.

If you don't disconnect any wires, or open any connectors, there should be no issues. I've done it likely 30 times.
The wire length is short. So be careful not to yank wires hard. There may be harness attachments to the floor that might be removable to give more slack. Just go slow with good lighting.

The thing you must be aware of if you add anything between the seat bottom and the seat frame/ springs is the driver-in-seat-sensor and the wire going to it from underneath. The sensor is glued on top of the foam that the faux leather is attached to. The wire goes through a hole in the foam and passes through from the top of the foam to underneath where there's a connector, a very small one. Adding stuff blind you could disturb the wire, pull out the connector, or break the wires. This will cause erratic behavior of the car. It will think nobody is in the seat. All the automation that kicks off when you sit in the car, tap the brake, etc, will be confused at best.

I have never triggered the airbag.
The airbag is in the upper wing, facing the door. Don't mess with it.

If you are afraid, you can power down the car.
The challenge is having the seat in the correct position to expose all 4 bolts. I kept power on so I could move the seat forwards to access the rear bolts, and backwards to access the front 2 bolts.

I tried up to 5 iterations of design changes to the seat.
Finally I arrived at the only one that is now permanent for me and fixed the problems.
I removed and replaced the foam entirely with a more dense foam. Additionally I glued blocks of dense foam to the bottom of the foam that I used.
I custom attached the faux leather from original Tesla back on top of the foam.
I drilled a hole to pass the seat sensor from top to bottom to reattach the connector underneath.
If you do pull the seat bottom out of the car, like I do, you have to disconnect two connectors. You can visually trace the wires after 4 bolt removals and rocking the seat backwards.

One connector is gray and is for heating the seat bottom. You can trace the wire back to the rear then up into the bottom seat cover. The heater wiring is permanently sewn into the faux leather seat cover.
The other wire is a very small two wire, black, going to a black connector ( a simple one) held on the bottom of the springs by a clip.

I hope this helps.


If you need more help I can be found on YouTube
Sincerely,

George Borrelli

 

[ev_go123]

Make sure you use the proper sized torx, which might be 45, and a good ratchet wrench or breaker bar attached.

Thanks for the info George, I'm still sitting on my Purple seat cushion but eventually I'll get around to doing these mods too and this info will be very helpful.

Also one thing to note, the Tesla manual says it's a Torx T45 plus. A regular T45 might work, but I'd worry about stripping it. Also when putting the bolts back, the manual says to torque the bolts to 33.5 nm (~25ft-lbs), I'd put some Loctite on there too.

 

[ohniner]

The four seat bolts are installed in the factory with their locktite on the threads. The first time you remove the bolts you simply need a long arm on the ratchet wrench or a "breaker bar" made for this purpose. Do not use heat of any kind.

Make sure you use the proper sized torx, which might be 45, and a good ratchet wrench or breaker bar attached.

The seat can be rocked backwards for access to the bottom after the four bolts are removed.

If you don't disconnect any wires, or open any connectors, there should be no issues. I've done it likely 30 times.
The wire length is short. So be careful not to yank wires hard. There may be harness attachments to the floor that might be removable to give more slack. Just go slow with good lighting.

The thing you must be aware of if you add anything between the seat bottom and the seat frame/ springs is the driver-in-seat-sensor and the wire going to it from underneath. The sensor is glued on top of the foam that the faux leather is attached to. The wire goes through a hole in the foam and passes through from the top of the foam to underneath where there's a connector, a very small one. Adding stuff blind you could disturb the wire, pull out the connector, or break the wires. This will cause erratic behavior of the car. It will think nobody is in the seat. All the automation that kicks off when you sit in the car, tap the brake, etc, will be confused at best.

I have never triggered the airbag.
The airbag is in the upper wing, facing the door. Don't mess with it.

If you are afraid, you can power down the car.
The challenge is having the seat in the correct position to expose all 4 bolts. I kept power on so I could move the seat forwards to access the rear bolts, and backwards to access the front 2 bolts.

I tried up to 5 iterations of design changes to the seat.
Finally I arrived at the only one that is now permanent for me and fixed the problems.
I removed and replaced the foam entirely with a more dense foam. Additionally I glued blocks of dense foam to the bottom of the foam that I used.
I custom attached the faux leather from original Tesla back on top of the foam.
I drilled a hole to pass the seat sensor from top to bottom to reattach the connector underneath.
If you do pull the seat bottom out of the car, like I do, you have to disconnect two connectors. You can visually trace the wires after 4 bolt removals and rocking the seat backwards.

One connector is gray and is for heating the seat bottom. You can trace the wire back to the rear then up into the bottom seat cover. The heater wiring is permanently sewn into the faux leather seat cover.
The other wire is a very small two wire, black, going to a black connector ( a simple one) held on the bottom of the springs by a clip.

I hope this helps.


If you need more help I can be found on YouTube
Sincerely,

George Borrelli

So bought a Torx plus set (can't ever have too many tools) and was pleasantly surprised when using a standard length 1/2 in ratchet had no issues removing all four seat hold down bolts. The bolts came out easy as there were BLUE loctited in. I then leaned the seat back exposing the bottom of the seat cushion with the sensors as you described. I carefully added two pieces of 1/2 wood approx. 4x5 between the foam and the springs essentially raising my sitting position and firming up the cushion. For me it was enough to resolve my issue. Lowered the seat, blue loctite on bolts, torque to 33.5 ft/lbs and I've been good to go. Might mention my M3P is a 23.
Thanks for you enormous input into this forum.

 

[Georgesb2]

So bought a Torx plus set (can't ever have too many tools) and was pleasantly surprised when using a standard length 1/2 in ratchet had no issues removing all four seat hold down bolts. The bolts came out easy as there were BLUE loctited in. I then leaned the seat back exposing the bottom of the seat cushion with the sensors as you described. I carefully added two pieces of 1/2 wood approx. 4x5 between the foam and the springs essentially raising my sitting position and firming up the cushion. For me it was enough to resolve my issue. Lowered the seat, blue loctite on bolts, torque to 33.5 ft/lbs and I've been good to go. Might mention my M3P is a 23.
Thanks for you enormous input into this forum.

Glad it worked out for you!
Sincerely,
George Borrelli