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Upcoming update 2023.26 just saved me some money, time, and effort
- Thread starter Tha_Ape
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Might want to learn more on that topic, many ways a HP could be quite effective in the majority of CO.
I would, and will, do it again. The quality of the installer is everything. Leaking loops suck, typically at the loop top manifold. I would install with access to same and require a clear warranty of same. Make sure it is properly ducted and make them prove it. 90% of the industry still does “that’s how we do it”. You want a load calc per room and a Manual J based duct design. Zone it. Use oversize (probably parallel) 5” air filters and run MERV 13. Don’t overbuy unit. I caution against variable speed compressor (jury still out) and domestic hot water. Although if I did use it I’d use it for radiant heat in my driveway. Require a 10 years parts and labor warranty from installer.
Let me know if you want more, happy to help
ModelNforNerd
Active Member
Just like anywhere else comma you will need supplemental sources. heat pumps lose their effectiveness down around 20 Fahrenheit. We had about a 3-week stretch last year where it was colder than 10 below
I had a heat pump before I didn't like it compared to gas heat
I would be willing try geothermal it's an a frame so maybe don't need load calc per room?
Also do you have the deep vertical lines or the more shallow long lines? Should I not put the lines under the house before we pour concrete?
You wouldn't use it for hot water?
Many don't care for air source HP because the exit air temp is usually in the 90f range. It will heat the house fine, but feels cold to people close to a vent. They can be a bit noisy too. Still, an air source HP is nothing but a good air conditioner with a reversing valve. The hot tip on a budget is dual fuel. Run Nat gas for cold days below say 30f (or 25f, TBD), and run the HP above that. Usually only $1k over a std AC, cheaper to run most of the year, yet still has backup heat that's plenty comfortable and cheap to use too. Have had quite a few friends and family go this way that didn't know if they wanted the cost of Geo.
Load calc. You do you, but I would do one. How else you gonna size it? An open A-Frame still might be a beach to keep cool if you're using the upper area as a second floor. If you are getting that ducting right is uber important.
I'm 5 1/2 ton on vertical loops. Personally I'd want access to them if SHTF. Mine are in the back yard.
Domestic hot water is nice, and I bought it. Then it broke OOW and was going to cost a fortune to replace it. I would not do it again, and have not in family who've followed my lead. I was lucky mine failed in a way that I could just bypass it and shut it off. But if they fail in other places it can be really really expensive. These beaches are expensive, I now lean towards minimizing failure points with them.
BTW, if I was doing it over I'd foam insulate too. I didn't. Mistake.
Load calc. You do you, but I would do one. How else you gonna size it? An open A-Frame still might be a beach to keep cool if you're using the upper area as a second floor. If you are getting that ducting right is uber important.
I'm 5 1/2 ton on vertical loops. Personally I'd want access to them if SHTF. Mine are in the back yard.
Domestic hot water is nice, and I bought it. Then it broke OOW and was going to cost a fortune to replace it. I would not do it again, and have not in family who've followed my lead. I was lucky mine failed in a way that I could just bypass it and shut it off. But if they fail in other places it can be really really expensive. These beaches are expensive, I now lean towards minimizing failure points with them.
BTW, if I was doing it over I'd foam insulate too. I didn't. Mistake.
Anywhere else? Of course not. Darn near the bottom half of the nation, as one example. Another? For up to maybe 2/3's of the nation they would need no more than strip heat for the few days or week or so of extra they need. Cheap cheap to install. Few would avoid a HP for that reason. For the rest, myself included, a HP is always part of the answer. IF air souce then back it up w/nat gas. If ground source backup is always strip heat.
I meant a room by room load calc of course I'd do total cubic feet calc for heat . Don't think I need ac it's at 11k feet in Colorado it's only hot a few hours a year.. was trying to avoid propane tank guess I could live with electric hot water
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