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A recent (6 month?) software update disconnects WiFi as soon as you shift out of Park. So, your plan won't work if you want to use it while in motion.

I hot spot off my phone all the time and wifi never disconnects.

The slightly annoying thing is that my car hangs on to my homes wifi for several blocks e c en nthough I cant get data when I'more than a few hundred feet away.
 
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I had a loaner car that had 3g. I would say the 4g is worth the upgrade. I found 3g to be very slow. Searching, playing music, took a bit longer than my 4g car. The browser is slow in all teslas FOR NOW, but they will be coming out with a kernel update soon that will speed things up quite a bit.

My recommendation is go with the $600 upgrade


One of the advantages of the hotspot is you could hook up your dash cam to it. This will allow you to watch a live stream of your car at all times.
 
I got the LTE upgrade on my '14 Model S. Honestly, I agree with the suggestions above to get LTE to get better coverage. Speedwise I couldn't really tell the difference. What I did see was more reliability regarding connections. On 3G the car's internet connection would often stop working (map tiles and internet radio cut out completely) or I would be unable to connect via mobile app in some places.

But in terms of speed, the map tiles load a hair faster and I don't notice a difference with anything else (internet radio or browser). The old NVIDIA Tegra seems to be the bottleneck, not the internet speed.
 
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My service center tried blaming my insurance device that was plugged into the OBDII connector for an intermittent error code that I was receiving.

Wow, that's nuts! They should know that the OBDII port only supplies +12v and has no other signal or information pins. How could that possibly be triggering an error code? :rolleyes:

Knowing that, how does your insurance tracker work? Does it have its own internal GPS, accelerometer and speed sensors and only needs power from the OBDII port? I thought all the insurance trackers tapped into the normal OBDII signals found on ICE cars.
 
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The LTE is a waste of money (have one of each). The screens are painfully slow either way. I never would have thought that in 2017 the main screen would still be running on the original 2012 hardware.
The advantage of LTE in 2012-2017 Model S/X is coverage, not speed. For those who live where there is good 3G coverage LTE makes no difference. Going forward however, chances are new towers going up will have LTE and some no 3G. Personally I know of one spot (grocery store parking lot) where my car almost always lost connection on 3G, but after LTE upgrade never has a problem.
 
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I hot spot off my phone all the time and wifi never disconnects.

The slightly annoying thing is that my car hangs on to my homes wifi for several blocks e c en nthough I cant get data when I'more than a few hundred feet away.
The change to disconnect as soon as you take it out of Park is "backwards compatible" , meaning any AP's you setup before still hang work the old way. "Forget" your home network, then add it back and the car will drop it as soon as you put switch out of Park. At least that is what solved my car hanging onto the wifi when driving away (causing maps not to load, streaming to break, etc).

PS) I also ready somewhere here from the hackers, that it's just a flag in some configuration that tells the car whether to drop that particular wifi when driving. The flag is not exposed in the UI (at least last I checked) but possibly if you set up an AP while driving vsm parked may set that flag differently?
 
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Wow, that's nuts! They should know that the OBDII port only supplies +12v and has no other signal or information pins. How could that possibly be triggering an error code? :rolleyes:

Knowing that, how does your insurance tracker work? Does it have its own internal GPS, accelerometer and speed sensors and only needs power from the OBDII port? I thought all the insurance trackers tapped into the normal OBDII signals found on ICE cars.

I brought up the same point and they said the +12v on the OBDII came straight from the computer and my device could have been causing the problem. It has a GPS and Cellular modem in it. They asked that I discontinue use of the device for a month to see it the errors went away since they were so intermittent. After three trouble free weeks, I believed them and switched insurance companies. Then the error codes came back in week four. It ended up being a bad wiring harness between the accelerator pedal and the rear drive unit.
 
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