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Vampire battery drain while parked

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my model 3 is losing over 20 miles while I’m parked at work for 8 hours. I arrive the battery is at 160 mi and by the time I’m off work it’s 135. I turned off sentry and overheat protection, closed the Tesla App on my phone. Is there a reason this is happening and/or a way to fix it?
 
You don't need to close the Tesla app on your phone. As long as you don't open it (show it on screen) it won't make any requests to the car. Do you use any other app or web site that has your Tesla credentials and calls the Tesla APIs?
That energy might not be consumed... It's possible that your battery cools down and the car simply reports that less energy can be extracted from your battery.
 
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Re: other apps or websites with my Tesla credentials. I installed the myQ app to interface my Tesla to the garage door opener but it was draining prior to this. I can’t think of anything else, do you have any examples?

I precondition the battery from home and do scheduled charging for set departure time. When I leave I have 189mi. My fear is that this keeps getting worse and I won’t have enough charge to make it to work and back.
 
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my model 3 is losing over 20 miles while I’m parked at work for 8 hours. I arrive the battery is at 160 mi and by the time I’m off work it’s 135. I turned off sentry and overheat protection, closed the Tesla App on my phone. Is there a reason this is happening and/or a way to fix it?
Summon on Standby enabled? It'll keep the car awake too.
 
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I've never seen any car really "draining" the battery in a dangerous way. There are two cases that could be happening here:
1- The car stays awake and consumes 200-250w constantly. That means 1kWh in 4-5h, which is around 1.6% SOC (RWD) or 1.2% SOC (LR/Perf). You seem to have done what's necessary so that the car falls asleep so this shouldn't be your situation.
2- The battery cools down. Chemically, less energy can be extracted from it. It hasn't lost that power, it was not consumed, but you can not extract as much. When the battery warms again, you'll have access to that power. When this temporary loss is large enough, the battery "drawing" will show a blue slice to represent that loss. In that situation you'll see that the reported SOC in the car is less than the SOC reported in the app, the latter doesn't seem to account for cold.
 
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Since some of your other posts talk about FSD beta, I will second the suggestion to ensure summon standby is not enabled.
Thanks you. I checked and it was off.
 

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Thanks you. I checked and it was off.

Do you have any other apps?

Is this reproducible?

Where does the car say it is being used (look at the “Park” tab of the Energy app)?

25 miles in 8 hours is over 600W so the car is not just sleeping; it is also doing things (HVAC). Make sure all the doors are latched and the mirrors are folding.

Some versions of the FSD software have screwed up the door sensor states and then the car never locks and perhaps HVAC is also left on (however this typically also results in being unable to use FSD or AP due to the car thinking the doors are open (even though there is no warning in the car about it!)).
 
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Do you have any other apps?

Is this reproducible?

Where does the car say it is being used (look at the “Park” tab of the Energy app)?

25 miles in 8 hours is over 600W so the car is not just sleeping; it is also doing things (HVAC). Make sure all the doors are latched and the mirrors are folding.

Some versions of the FSD software have screwed up the door sensor states and then the car never locks and perhaps HVAC is also left on (however this typically also results in being unable to use FSD or AP due to the car thinking the doors are open (even though there is no warning in the car about it!)).
HVAC was the issue because before I left the car I shut off the climate and also turned the power off through the security tab down at the bottom. Only 3.7 miles of standby loss. Whew! Thank you for the tips!
 

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HVAC was the issue because before I left the car I shut off the climate and also turned the power off through the security tab down at the bottom. Only 3.7 miles of standby loss. Whew! Thank you for the tips!
Do you have any other apps?

Is this reproducible?

Where does the car say it is being used (look at the “Park” tab of the Energy app)?

25 miles in 8 hours is over 600W so the car is not just sleeping; it is also doing things (HVAC). Make sure all the doors are latched and the mirrors are folding.

Some versions of the FSD software have screwed up the door sensor states and then the car never locks and perhaps HVAC is also left on (however this typically also results in being unable to use FSD or AP due to the car thinking the doors are open (even though there is no warning in the car about it!)).
I had also done a soft reset by pushing just the scroll wheels. Sometimes the sound doesn’t work on Sky Force just randomly which aggravates my 4 year-old to no end and the soft reset gets the sound back on. Not sure if the reset had anything to do with the battery drain.
 
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HVAC was the issue because before I left the car I shut off the climate and also turned the power off through the security tab down at the bottom. Only 3.7 miles of standby loss. Whew! Thank you for the tips!

You should not have to turn off HVAC. It is also a potential source of mold and stinkiness if you do so (in theory - I find that mold grows anyway).

Anyway, the 3.7 is probably from BMS adjustment mostly. As has been stated, you should usually ignore what happens the first 5-10 hours, after the vehicle sleeps, as long as it is within reason. You can start logging after that to see what the actual losses are.

You should try this again without turning off HVAC. Should still be ok. Just make sure the car locks and mirrors fold when you leave (as mentioned, a few recent versions of FSD have had this issue - not resolved by a reset).
 
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You should not have to turn off HVAC. It is also a potential source of mold and stinkiness if you do so (in theory - I find that mold grows anyway).

Anyway, the 3.7 is probably from BMS adjustment mostly. As has been stated, you should usually ignore what happens the first 5-10 hours, after the vehicle sleeps, as long as it is within reason. You can start logging after that to see what the actual losses are.

You should try this again without turning off HVAC. Should still be ok. Just make sure the car locks and mirrors fold when you leave (as mentioned, a few recent versions of FSD have had this issue - not resolved by a reset).
Okay. I will definitely try that and let you know.
 
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You should not have to turn off HVAC. It is also a potential source of mold and stinkiness if you do so (in theory - I find that mold grows anyway).

Anyway, the 3.7 is probably from BMS adjustment mostly. As has been stated, you should usually ignore what happens the first 5-10 hours, after the vehicle sleeps, as long as it is within reason. You can start logging after that to see what the actual losses are.

You should try this again without turning off HVAC. Should still be ok. Just make sure the car locks and mirrors fold when you leave (as mentioned, a few recent versions of FSD have had this issue - not resolved by a reset).
Mirrors folded car honked. Standby 10 mi used, seems reasonable. Sentry mode 10 miles used. Then incidental app usage and things I guess it all adds up to 20-25 miles.
 

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I tried one day leaving climate on instead of turning off. The other day I had climate off and left sentry mode on. Just trying to figure out what drains the battery the most.
Climate should have no effect.

If temp is an issue it is not due to warming. It’s the battery getting colder and BMS adjusting estimates. Sometimes this results in a higher number of rated miles, rather than lower - it depends.

One thing you could do at work is check after 4 hours, and then also check after 8 hours. May give you a better idea of how this behaves. I’d expect most of that shift after 4 hours. It isn’t quite a long enough interval though (I’d prefer after 8 hours and then after 16 hours). However worth looking - BMS can adjust rapidly sometimes.

I’d observe this at home with sentry off for greater than a day and check after the first night, after 24 hours, and after 48 hours.
 
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Climate should have no effect.

If temp is an issue it is not due to warming. It’s the battery getting colder and BMS adjusting estimates. Sometimes this results in a higher number of rated miles, rather than lower - it depends.

One thing you could do at work is check after 4 hours, and then also check after 8 hours. May give you a better idea of how this behaves. I’d expect most of that shift after 4 hours. It isn’t quite a long enough interval though (I’d prefer after 8 hours and then after 16 hours). However worth looking - BMS can adjust rapidly sometimes.

I’d observe this at home with sentry off for greater than a day and check after the first night, after 24 hours, and after 48 hours.

I agree the BMS adjusts estimates for cold and he probably also sees the blue ❄️ icon until it heats up enough even.

The car seems to be working in winter while parked though. I literally see it melt snow parked in my driveway while unplugged for days and I can hear the pump running fluid sometimes. It's my understanding the car keeps the HV battery within some king of set temp spec to prolong its life even while parked and shut down.

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literally see it melt snow parked in my driveway while unplugged for days and I can hear the pump running fluid sometimes. It's my understanding the car keeps the HV battery within some kind of set temp spec to prolong its life even while parked and shut down.

No it does not do anything at typically observed temperatures. Relatively warm above 0F probably nothing at all.

You’d expect to see snow melt from something that averages 10W of power dissipation, focused in certain areas.
 
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