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What Percent is Your Tesla Charged to While at Home?

What Percent is Your Tesla Charged to While at Home on a Regular Basis?


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As technology in this area is advancing rapidly, hopefully this will be a thing of the past. Imagine an EV battery pack that doesn't degrade due to time, along with a minimum 500 miles of range. When that happens there will be a lot more ICE vehicle lovers joining our team.
There's often an engineering tension between these two. Degradation from time and cycles, and high energy density. High energy density means lots of molecules with high potential energy and stuffing ions into small atomic holes. Stuffing the materials tightly degrades them structurally, and the molecules like to have side reactions which over time reduce capacity. Any reactions other than the primary energy transporting one, fully reversible, inevitably loses capacity as the molecules turn into something other than what they were originally intended to. Batteries are complex chemical soups and sandwiches of complex stuff.

It's literally the second law of thermodynamics, the small number of chemical species turn into a wider variety thereof.

What there is not an intrinsic tension is cost---the fact that some materials are much cheaper than others doesn't have a direct bearing on their capabilities in batteries. The commercially successful ones are those that optimize cost along the performance frontier. The ones that stay in the research literature without commercialization are the ones that fail the cost parameter, so most alternatives are almost always more expensive, unless you get really lucky and those breakthroughs are rare but important.

The Lithium ion degradation comes mostly from the graphite side. Graphite is cheap and current formulations are pretty close to optimal as to what's possible with that material. The NMC/NCA/LFP is on the other side, the cathode, but I think development on the anode is more important now.

Re Tesla: the battery day proposed this great silicon-in-foam anode which was supposed to be the answer but we've heard absolutely nothing about it since then. Tesla confirms acquisition of battery startup in new patent

If it were to work, the energy density would jump up substantially, but it hasn't, the Tesla 4680s are lower energy density than the Panasonic 2170 packs.

All the long, Sila Nanotechnologies has been more openly progressing their contained silicon system---it's a very very hard problem.
 
I agree, and it also implies there is no high end heavy-silicon anode which would have increased energy density even more to compensate.

It appears Panasonic has some proprietary tech to let them use NCA well (low degradation) when nobody else can.
I think the LG NMC cells are very good in terms of degradation, in general lower than Panasonic NCA cells.
Less initial capacity but holds up well.
 
View attachment 942890

Just passed 2000 kms on my April 10th build M3p, charged to 55% since delivery.

Too early to tell but looking good…
Note that your initial capacity was above about 80.6kWh or 80.7kWh to display 315 miles. I believe this is the case in Canada (don’t get the “LG 💩 special” packs), anyway.

Assuming that 315 miles is the advertised value for initial range in Canada, set your start capacity to 80.7kWh in Tessie.

Regardless, you are doing fine. If you charge to 100% and you show 315 you are doing even better than the Tessie estimate.
 
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On a side note, what’s a good free iPhone tesla 3rd party app? Tessie is great but I don’t find I use anything other than the Usable capacity metric (which may be useless…) and scanmyTesla is only for Android?
Scan My Tesla is for iPhone as well.

I think Scan My Tesla is the best there is if you want real numbers unfiltered.
Its more of a nerds app, so for the ones really interrested, its a must.
No annual fees but you need a harnes with a OBD-port and a ODB-dongle.
 
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Note that your initial capacity was above about 80.6kWh or 80.7kWh to display 315 miles. I believe this is the case in Canada (don’t get the “LG 💩 special” packs), anyway.

Assuming that 315 miles is the advertised value for initial range in Canada, set your start capacity to 80.7kWh in Tessie.

Regardless, you are doing fine. If you charge to 100% and you show 315 you are doing even better than the Tessie estimate.
Thats right, the LG 78.8 kWh pack usually tops out just north of 79, 79.1-79.2 or so.
80.X makes it clear its a Panasonic pack.

The M3P’s sold with LG in europe has 547 km WLTP instead of 567km with the Panna.
I think a expected max displayed range with the LG is 498-499 km (79200/158.77)
 
Note that your initial capacity was above about 80.6kWh or 80.7kWh to display 315 miles. I believe this is the case in Canada (don’t get the “LG 💩 special” packs), anyway.

Assuming that 315 miles is the advertised value for initial range in Canada, set your start capacity to 80.7kWh in Tessie.

Regardless, you are doing fine. If you charge to 100% and you show 315 you are doing even better than the Tessie estimate.
I’m not following with the 80.7 - Tessie is predicting 506kms (315 miles) but I can check the estimate on screen when I charge to 100% for a road trip.

What’s the significance of the 80.7 here? The highest usable capacity I’ve seen since I got it is 80.4 (Tessie).
 
I’m not following with the 80.7 - Tessie is predicting 506kms (315 miles) but I can check the estimate on screen when I charge to 100% for a road trip.

What’s the significance of the 80.7 here? The highest usable capacity I’ve seen since I got it is 80.4 (Tessie).

The 80.7kWh (or 80.6kWh - I defer to others on the precise value) is your starting capacity.

If you don’t have that (approximately), you don’t have 315 miles at 100%.

You are fairly close right now so you might well get to 315 at 100% (can use the energy screen method at that point and you’ll get 80.6kWh or so).

Anyway you should change the initial capacity (78.8kWh) in Tessie (press and hold or some such) so that it is correct.

I have no idea why Tessie thinks 80.1kWh will give you 315 miles - it won’t of course. (More like 313 or so.)

This stuff is all very deterministic.
 
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The 80.7kWh (or 80.6kWh - I defer to others on the precise value) is your starting capacity.

If you don’t have that (approximately), you don’t have 315 miles at 100%.

You are fairly close right now so you might well get to 315 at 100% (can use the energy screen method at that point and you’ll get 80.6kWh or so).

Anyway you should change the initial capacity (78.8kWh) in Tessie (press and hold or some such) so that it is correct.

I have no idea why Tessie thinks 80.1kWh will give you 315 miles - it won’t of course. (More like 313 or so.)

This stuff is all very deterministic.
Great info - thank you!
I am also planning on swapping out the Ubers for 19lb Enkeis so ideally should see more than 315…
 
Great info - thank you!
I am also planning on swapping out the Ubers for 19lb Enkeis so ideally should see more than 315…
The displayed range is static so the displayed range will not change from lighter wheels etc. It might change if you change the wheels in the menua to 18” or 19”, but this of course do not change the real range.

The displayed range at the battery symbol is a pure energy meter - but displayed in a range depending on a fixed conspumtion(constant).
80.6 kWh will always display 315 miles/507km, as the constant Is fixed.

Changing to lighter wheels/less drag will of course increase the real range but not change the displayed range.
 
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All other factors held constant (tire tread compound, tread design, wheel aerodynamics, etc..) a lighter wheel would produce some range benefits, mostly in city stop and go taffic. However you may also loose "real" range based on all of the factors above. A heavy wheel does not matter much when moving at a constant highway speed. Highway range will be most determined by tread compound, tread design, and aerodynamics.
 
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I guess I am trying to decrease my wh/km with the 18” wheels (I was planning on changing it within the menu as well to account for speedometer/regen changes).

Tires are a tricky one since the p-zero elects are EV-specific 20” and I am replacing them with Michelin/Continental performance tires 18”. I wanted to go with Primacy/low rolling resistance but these performance tires are just too good when handling!!
 
I guess I am trying to decrease my wh/km with the 18” wheels (I was planning on changing it within the menu as well to account for speedometer/regen changes).

Tires are a tricky one since the p-zero elects are EV-specific 20” and I am replacing them with Michelin/Continental performance tires 18”. I wanted to go with Primacy/low rolling resistance but these performance tires are just too good when handling!!
Agreed! the trade off of increased handling, performance, and better stopping distance, is well worth the minor decrease in range.
 
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I just brought home a used 2022 LR AWD with 6,900 miles on it.. I've read this whole thread and must admit, most is over my head.. I love how users (@AAKEE ) take the time to dig into all this and share their knowledge.. So appreciate it!!

That being said, my daily commute is 17 miles one way to work so 34 miles give or take minimum.. Plus some running around for kids practices etc.. Setting my charge to 55% should be no issue for me as at that charge Tessie says "estimated 150 miles real world"..

Is it 55% or 50% that is the best to set at? Also, Tessie has 96.9% battery health.. Is it possible to get that back up to 100% by following the charging guidelines suggested (the 50/55%)? I can see myself charging it higher for the weekends and trips etc.. I'm getting a Gen3 wall charger installed right now..

Also, if I go with the 50/55% daily charge, is it ever suggested to charge up to 80+% for any reason? Sorry, still learning and reading a ton.. Freaking love all this data even if I don't understand it all! lol