Thanks. Yes, I have the Alpine "infotainment" system with stereo and NAV. Frankly, the NAV in that unit is not as good as my old Garmin Nuvi, which is not as good as Google Maps on my phone. I have not used the Model 3 enough to have an opinion yet on its NAV. I vaguely remember hearing it uses Google Maps.
Thanks. Yes, I have the Alpine "infotainment" system with stereo and NAV. Frankly, the NAV in that unit is not as good as my old Garmin Nuvi, which is not as good as Google Maps on my phone. I have not used the Model 3 enough to have an opinion yet on its NAV. I vaguely remember hearing it uses Google Maps.
The big thing about having the double-din unit is when you compare it to what the earlier cars (1.5 & 2.0) came with - a single-din unit. Double-din is 7 inches high; single is only 3.5 inches. Imagine your navigation experience with a screen the size of the original iPhone, mounted at arms-length from you. And with maps that expired nearly a decade ago. With a menu system designed by, um, well, designed before the art of UX was invented.
Not that I'm complaining, mind you... It can be useful when you're out of cell phone coverage, and it does receive some highway traffic updates over the air. It also can talk to you when you're listening to FM / CD / HDD / Sirius, instead of Bluetooth from your phone.
The double-din in-dash unit is a big plus in my book, supporting a higher price. It's about the only thing I wish I had in my car. That, and better sound dampening.
supersnoop
Tesla Roadster #334
SageBrush
REJECT Fascism
supersnoop
Tesla Roadster #334
Um...
160 is brand new, perfect CAC. If you’re at 159, you just added $5k to the value of the car, easy.
DeedWest
2008 VP & 2011 2.5 Sport
Gosh, thanks for the info. If I do decide again to sell it I'll put that in the ad. I only ever once charged to full, I've never charged in Performance mode, and I'd never driven below about 30 or 40% SoC. It's been my daily driver, but no long road trips.
I believe I've decided again to sell the Roadster. $75K. (Noted also in my thread in the Tesla for Sale forum.) And I'm also going to list it on one of the regular on-line car markets. Someone mentioned AutoTrader. Comments? Where's the best place to list a car? I already tried eBay, and even though I had lowered the price to $65K for a few days, I got no takers.
Apparently AutoTrader charges for ads, or charges for ads with pictures. But the web site doesn't say how much. Apparently you have to go through the whole process of creating the ad before you see prices and terms.
Apparently AutoTrader charges for ads, or charges for ads with pictures. But the web site doesn't say how much. Apparently you have to go through the whole process of creating the ad before you see prices and terms.
Okay. I found their prices. 8 weeks is $50, Run 'Til it Sells is $75, and that plus Featured Spotlight is $100.
Still wondering if folks think there's a good chance of selling it there.
Stewie26
Supporting Member
AutoTrader is where I found the roaster I bought in January. So it worked for me as a buyer.
With that said, the car was only 30 minutes away from my house, the price was very reasonably, the car was close to being immaculate and also the color I was looking for. It was a perfect fit. Maybe the seller and I both just got lucky.
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ecarfan
Well-Known Member
As far as I know you can only get the CAC from the log file. I do not understand what you mean by “pulled the CAC from the screen”. Please explain the steps you went through to arrive at that number.
I believe that you believe your CAC is that number. But it is not plausible that your current CAC could be within a fraction of a point of the what the CAC was when new. Every Roadster battery I have ever heard of has declined significantly in capacity since the battery was new.
ShawnA
Supporting Member
Hi Ecarfan,
Isn't the CAC the number shown near the upper left corner in the VDS in maintenance mode on ESS?
Shawn
Isn't the CAC the number shown near the upper left corner in the VDS in maintenance mode on ESS?
Shawn
The procedure (quoted below from a PM that DeedWest sent me, but also posted elsewhere) is:
Charged in Standard mode, my Roadster shows nearly the same ideal range that it did when new. I think it was 188 when new and 186 now. Except that it showed 191 after I charged it with the 110V charger, because the NEMA 14-50 is now being used for the Model 3.
ETA: I checked it again just now and this time it said 158.45. I'm going to ask the ranger to pull the logs and check it that way.
Uncle Paul
Well-Known Member
Regarding you comment on autopilot. I had the same feeling with my year old Model X. The autopilot was not confidence inspiring, and while I found it super useful, especially on longer trips, there were areas where I would simply turn it off and drive manually.
Just recently it downloaded an update, and simply transformed the autopilot experience. The lane holding is now silky smooth, lane changing feels like a human is at the wheel, and auto driving down the freeway is a much more relaxing experience.
G/F who usually is up tight when I used autopilot before, now does not even notice when I turn it on. Says it is now just fine with her.
I would expect the auto pilot to continue to improve in the Model 3 also.
Just recently it downloaded an update, and simply transformed the autopilot experience. The lane holding is now silky smooth, lane changing feels like a human is at the wheel, and auto driving down the freeway is a much more relaxing experience.
G/F who usually is up tight when I used autopilot before, now does not even notice when I turn it on. Says it is now just fine with her.
I would expect the auto pilot to continue to improve in the Model 3 also.
Yeah, this is fabulous news. You (or someone else) posted this in another thread, and now all of us Model 3 owners are anxiously and (in my case at least) impatiently waiting for us to get that upgrade. I was actually planning a drive for no other purpose than to try AP again to see if I could get used to it, but when I learned of this development I decided to wait for the upgrade.
I've pulled the log file. It comes out as a .tar file. Apparently my computer knows how to unpack .tar files because when I double-click on the .tar file I end up with a bunch of text files, some of which are gibberish, but one of them, called ahr.log, is a list of brick number, SOC, and voltage.
Anyone know how to make sense of any of it, or how to find the CAC from these files?
I've also uploaded the .tar file to Tesla, asking if they can tell me the CAC, but I have no idea if they'll respond, or if I have to phone the service department.
Anyone know how to make sense of any of it, or how to find the CAC from these files?
I've also uploaded the .tar file to Tesla, asking if they can tell me the CAC, but I have no idea if they'll respond, or if I have to phone the service department.
ShawnA
Supporting Member
Hi Daniel,
Someone on the Forum wrote a Log file parser.
Search for log file parser in the Roadster Forum and download the parser.
You will be able to find the information in your files.
No need to wait for Tesla Service...
Shawn
Someone on the Forum wrote a Log file parser.
Search for log file parser in the Roadster Forum and download the parser.
You will be able to find the information in your files.
No need to wait for Tesla Service...
Shawn
A search for "log file parser" turns up just three posts, one of which is yours above, and neither of the other two have any link to the parser. However, the whole log file is almost 9 MB, and there's a ton of information. Unless the parser shows CAC at the top, I probably would not know how to read the parsed file.
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