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Where to mount Blackvue rear camera

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Patrick W

Active Member
Mar 17, 2015
1,524
943
SLC, UT
I took my S to a local installer to see about having a Blackvue dash cam system installed and they asked something I'd not thought of.

Do I want the rear camera on the the part of the rear ceiling that does not move or on the rear window? They noted that putting it on the moving rear window would introduce more complexity (read: cost more).

Any opinions on which location is better?
 
Not true at all. Mine is mounted at the top center of the rear windscreen, which is recommended. Yes, you must run the cable from under the headliner to the hatch. There are two ways to do this:

1: Run on the passenger side all the way to the back of the roof under the headliner: easy. Then pop the grommet tube that connects the electrics from the car to the hatch. Takes a bit of fiddling. Be gentle. The driver side grommet is too full of cables, so you must use the passenger side. Then snake through the top of the hatch to the center. Takes some work, but no more than 30 minutes, if you have experience, which I would hope the installer does. That is the cleanest install. Absolutely nothing is visible. If your installer does not know how to do that, find somebody else. It doesn't take much knowledge to do. I have read posts where people have done some crazy runs all along the hatch, from the top down and all the way around. Not necessary at all. There is room to snake the cable through the welded panels to exactly where you want. Not really not hard at all. A little patience and gentle touch is all that is needed. Two people helps a lot, but I have done it alone.

2: Jump the gap from the headliner to the hatch on the pass. side, tuck the cable in under the top of the plastic hatch trim, snake to the cam and you are done. That's about 15 minutes, max.

I have done both. I had to replace my cable because I was too rough the first go around and crimped it. That's why I say be gentle. I spoke to the dealer and he was great. He warned me that the cable is unusually fragile. Both the cable itself and the ridiculously small center prong that plugs into the camera. It likes to coil and doesn't like to straighten and can crimp very easily. So the second time I did a temp install of jumping the gap. Honestly, I can't see the jump at all with the hatch closed and I have to look for it when it is open. I'll do #1 when I have time.

I strongly suggest that you do not mount the cam to the your headliner. It will: look terrible, be subject to being bumped and jostled, leave a permanent mark on the headliner and, most importantly, give you significantly less resolution to the rear cam footage, which could be the most important cam for hit and runs. And you have inclement weather. The farther the cam is from the glass, the less it can see, by a huge margin. Kind of like how sound degrades at the square of the distance, if that makes sense.

Honestly, this is one of the easiest installs I have ever done and I am an ametuer, not a professional. I used to do HiFi installs as a kid 45 years ago on my cars. That's about it. Aside from getting the cable through the grommet to the hatch, the rest of the install took no more than 45 minutes in total. The hatch, because of fiddling and patience, took about an hour with figuring out how to do it for the first time.

If you have Al & Ed's in SLC, go to them. They will know exactly what to do. You should see their radar install. It is a true work of art.

I hope this helps. Don't let them gouge you.
 
I will echo what CHG-ON said. I did my install today. You MUST mount it on the glass. I would not trust any installer who suggests otherwise. I followed CHG-ON's option #2, mostly because: 1) I now have a leased car and desire a quick uninstall, and 2) don't want to risk breaking anything. This method should not cost you a nickle more. I need to re-work it a bit later to hide the cable a little better, but this should take just a couple of minutes.
 
Hi CHG-ON, Thanks for the input. Much appreciated. As I posted a few minutes ago I'm now convinced the camera needs to go on the glass.

Unfortuantely there's no Al & Ed's in Utah. In fact, none of the installers I've contacted have ever put a dual camera dash cam in a Tesla. Not really surprising considering how few Teslas there are in the state (I feel like I live in something of a Tesla desert).

The installer that's taken this project the most seriously has been in the install business for decades and does great work but wanted me to decide where the camera should go.

I'll pass on your text but am also hoping someone will post some pictures that I can show him too.

And while I'm at it, one other question. Are system like this typically hardwired into the car's electrical system so they have power all the time? Or are they just plugged into the car's 12 volt outlet between the front seats?

Not true at all. Mine is mounted at the top center of the rear windscreen, which is recommended. Yes, you must run the cable from under the headliner to the hatch. There are two ways to do this:

1: Run on the passenger side all the way to the back of the roof under the headliner: easy. Then pop the grommet tube that connects the electrics from the car to the hatch. Takes a bit of fiddling. Be gentle. The driver side grommet is too full of cables, so you must use the passenger side. Then snake through the top of the hatch to the center. Takes some work, but no more than 30 minutes, if you have experience, which I would hope the installer does. That is the cleanest install. Absolutely nothing is visible. If your installer does not know how to do that, find somebody else. It doesn't take much knowledge to do. I have read posts where people have done some crazy runs all along the hatch, from the top down and all the way around. Not necessary at all. There is room to snake the cable through the welded panels to exactly where you want. Not really not hard at all. A little patience and gentle touch is all that is needed. Two people helps a lot, but I have done it alone.

2: Jump the gap from the headliner to the hatch on the pass. side, tuck the cable in under the top of the plastic hatch trim, snake to the cam and you are done. That's about 15 minutes, max.

I have done both. I had to replace my cable because I was too rough the first go around and crimped it. That's why I say be gentle. I spoke to the dealer and he was great. He warned me that the cable is unusually fragile. Both the cable itself and the ridiculously small center prong that plugs into the camera. It likes to coil and doesn't like to straighten and can crimp very easily. So the second time I did a temp install of jumping the gap. Honestly, I can't see the jump at all with the hatch closed and I have to look for it when it is open. I'll do #1 when I have time.

I strongly suggest that you do not mount the cam to the your headliner. It will: look terrible, be subject to being bumped and jostled, leave a permanent mark on the headliner and, most importantly, give you significantly less resolution to the rear cam footage, which could be the most important cam for hit and runs. And you have inclement weather. The farther the cam is from the glass, the less it can see, by a huge margin. Kind of like how sound degrades at the square of the distance, if that makes sense.

Honestly, this is one of the easiest installs I have ever done and I am an ametuer, not a professional. I used to do HiFi installs as a kid 45 years ago on my cars. That's about it. Aside from getting the cable through the grommet to the hatch, the rest of the install took no more than 45 minutes in total. The hatch, because of fiddling and patience, took about an hour with figuring out how to do it for the first time.

If you have Al & Ed's in SLC, go to them. They will know exactly what to do. You should see their radar install. It is a true work of art.

I hope this helps. Don't let them gouge you.
 
I managed to feed the coaxial cable all the way from the microphone grille area through to the rear hatch rubber grommet on the passenger side. However, I ran into problems getting it into the hatch and between the panels from where the rubber grommet starts through to the center of the catch near where the camera would be mounted. I ended up just having the wire cross over the inside of the hatch under the black plastic trim. It's not as clean as I would have liked, but it works for now. I tried all I could to shove that thing in there and it seemed like the two panels were just too tight.
 
Hi CHG-ON, Thanks for the input. Much appreciated. As I posted a few minutes ago I'm now convinced the camera needs to go on the glass.

Unfortuantely there's no Al & Ed's in Utah. In fact, none of the installers I've contacted have ever put a dual camera dash cam in a Tesla. Not really surprising considering how few Teslas there are in the state (I feel like I live in something of a Tesla desert).

The installer that's taken this project the most seriously has been in the install business for decades and does great work but wanted me to decide where the camera should go.

I'll pass on your text but am also hoping someone will post some pictures that I can show him too.

And while I'm at it, one other question. Are system like this typically hardwired into the car's electrical system so they have power all the time? Or are they just plugged into the car's 12 volt outlet between the front seats?


Thanks! I'll PM you (or whatever it is called now: conversations?), unless others are interested. If so, let me know through PM...otherwise I am not sure how to know with the new interface...I'll figure it out soon enough. There are other threads here on how to do this that are great. I used them, but I learned a few new things along the way. Without them, I don't think I would have taken it on with a new tech car like the MS. Boy, after years of doing any and all install on cars as a kid fearlessly, I guess I am getting old. Oh. I AM old now!

I am happy to share my entire experience and photos. But too busy right now. I'll do my best to reply this coming weekend.

Again, it is about the easiest install I have ever done.
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: Maximus8
Why does everyone buy the Blackvue? this one is much better, and is 2Mp.

Personally, I'm looking for lipstick cams, for more discretion, something like this, or this, but better.

Most importantly, that Mini is not dual-channel. Secondly, I echo what tsarlsy said about parking mode. I had this model for a week and tried using the "motion detection" mode for parking mode and it worked "ok" for that, but it caused problems when at red lights (where accidents are likely to occur). If there were no cars moving in the frame for a few seconds it would stop recording. Then, it would pick up recording again a few seconds after you start moving.. so when you're already through the intersection. Sent it back and got the Blackvue. Hasn't been perfect, but it records all the time.
 
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Reactions: DrTaras
Why does everyone buy the Blackvue? this one is much better, and is 2Mp.

Personally, I'm looking for lipstick cams, for more discretion, something like this, or this, but better.
I too had one. It was unreliable. Would turn off all the time. The USB connector was also unreliable. Finally, no wifi. With the Blackvue, I can download videos straight to my iPhone. So easy.
 
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Reactions: DrTaras
Why does everyone buy the Blackvue? this one is much better, and is 2Mp

I strongly disagree! I had about 5 of these, various generations. While their design is great, they are unreliable. All of the 5 I had failed. They ran fine for a while, then stopped recording. All of them. I would stay away from them! Maybe the hot California sun kils them over time.
 
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Reactions: DrTaras