Why do the rear doors behave differently?

[AquaMan]

I am thinking they put in a weaker door pop actuator

I'm thinking the "actuator" is just the pressure of the rubber door seals, upon release it nudges out a bit, but the force from the door seals isn't enough in the back. My particular door seals weren't even stuck properly to the door with their adhesive until I pressed them on.

I'm going to experiment with some sponges and stuff in the door jamb, just to see if it makes a difference. (No, I won't consider a sponge a solution, but it'll help determine what's going on, especially if the window stops doing its little dance.)

 

[Need]

I'm thinking the "actuator" is just the pressure of the rubber door seals, upon release it nudges out a bit, but the force from the door seals isn't enough in the back. My particular door seals weren't even stuck properly to the door with their adhesive until I pressed them on.

I'm going to experiment with some sponges and stuff in the door jamb, just to see if it makes a difference. (No, I won't consider a sponge a solution, but it'll help determine what's going on, especially if the window stops doing its little dance.)

There is really a thing called door pop actuator... at least on our Model X. We have X and 3. On the X, earlier this year, the door won't pop out... leaving just a fingernail size crack. Can't pull the door out either as it is still latched. Service center has to replace the door pop actuator.

I can see there is a big difference between the front and back pop out distance. So either the front and back use different ones or the back doors are heavier or harder to move. The fact that you tried all the new ones and they behave the same as yours, I think something is changed. Could be the sealing like you said, or the actuator, or the door hinge, etc....

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

I tried again with my Aug 2018 AWD M3, the rear doors pop out. The window come down just like the front doors and do not go back up. I tried both from outside (just press the thumb part) and from inside press and release button. There is a different though.. the front door pop a lot more. The back door pop out about 1/3 as much as the front. And the first time I try, even though the rear door pop out (about 1/2 inch gap), it re-latched and I can't pull it out. But then after that, it was okay... like it needs some practice or something.

I am thinking they put in a weaker door pop actuator in the newer M3 rear doors. They probably changed supplier or something. I know they did it back in 2017 with the Model X charge port. It was a lot tighter than the previous ones.

Mine behaves basically like this. From the inside there is no window pop back up and no latching - one push is all you need. From the outside, just pushing the fat part does not result in a full unlatch if I push in too hard on the passenger side (resists the pop out too much). If I am gentle and let the door pop outwards it is fine (sounds like you were able to see this happen too). On driver side passenger door it is slightly less touchy and can get it to pop all the way most of the time.

Seems to me this is mostly some sort of adjustment issue, or some issue with the strength of the door pop actuator.

 

[CMoZ]

mine don't do this. They behave exactly like the front doors. Sept 2019 build

 

[AquaMan]

I FOUND THE PROBLEM!

Earlier I promised I would "experiment with sponges" (LOL) so I stuck a variety of squishy things in the door jamb and tried again.

Sure enough, if there is enough tension to push the door out, the window doesn't dance and it is fully released and the door swings freely when you tap the button or door handle once -- Just like the front.

I suspect this problem arose when they changed to a different design of rubber door seals.

In my case it took about 6 layers of brand-new green scrub pads (each about 3/16" thick) at the outer edge of the door. Of course that's not a solution I can live with, but perhaps I can find something that will "retain its squishiness" and be nicely hidden, perhaps under the door. (A piece of pool noodle maybe?)

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

I FOUND THE PROBLEM!

Earlier I promised I would "experiment with sponges" (LOL) so I stuck a variety of squishy things in the door jamb and tried again.

Sure enough, if there is enough tension to push the door out, the window doesn't dance and it is fully released and the door swings freely when you tap the button or door handle once -- Just like the front.

I suspect this problem arose when they changed to a different design of rubber door seals.

In my case it took about 6 layers of brand-new green scrub pads (each about 3/16" thick) at the outer edge of the door. Of course that's not a solution I can live with, but perhaps I can find something that will "retain its squishiness" and be nicely hidden, perhaps under the door. (A piece of pool noodle maybe?)

I would just have Tesla fix it if it bothers you. It sounds like it is not normal (see recent build report above).

 

[AquaMan]

I would just have Tesla fix it if it bothers you. It sounds like it is not normal (see recent build report above).

I'd like to, but it seems the issue is just less-than-optimal design, as in a change of the door seals. Plus they've already documented that this is "normal", and I incorrectly confirmed it.

Further experimentation shows it's just a matter of pushing the door out another 1/8" or so... Just enough to clear the latch.

Anyone familiar enough with car doors / strikers to know if something can be easily adjusted? Either the "metal loop" on the car or the latch iside the door such that the two parts can be moved further away? If it has to be done by Tesla, I'll request it but if I can turn a screw and adjust myself that certainly seems easier.

 

[jedi2b]

I'd like to, but it seems the issue is just less-than-optimal design, as in a change of the door seals. Plus they've already documented that this is "normal", and I incorrectly confirmed it.

Further experimentation shows it's just a matter of pushing the door out another 1/8" or so... Just enough to clear the latch.

Anyone familiar enough with car doors / strikers to know if something can be easily adjusted? Either the "metal loop" on the car or the latch iside the door such that the two parts can be moved further away? If it has to be done by Tesla, I'll request it but if I can turn a screw and adjust myself that certainly seems easier.

I had a similar issue and the mobile service just loosened the two bols holding the "metal loop" in place. Then you can move it around and tighten again. pretty straightforward.

 

[qdeathstar]

my door doesn’t move by itself?

 

[Need]

my door doesn’t move by itself?

You mean when you press the button, it doesn't even pop out (just a little)? Both sides?

 

[AquaMan]

I had a similar issue and the mobile service just loosened the two bols holding the "metal loop" in place. Then you can move it around and tighten again. pretty straightforward.

Yes, that turned out to be the solution. I had to buy the torx bit which is a T50 size and cost $2.80. It connects to my 3/8" socket wrench. In my case I needed to move both the "metal loops" inboard... but not too far lest the door wouldn't fully close without slamming.

Although the work is very easy, this fix took a LOT of trial and error on my part. Open, shut, open, loosen, adjust, tighten... Repeat. And the loop moves not only horizontally, but also vertically, so if someone needs to duplicate this fix, be aware of that. Spent a good hour on it. I suspect the latch inside the door itself can also be moved but I didn't have the right size bit for that. Perhaps if I did it would have helped.

But, the windows have stopped doing their little dance, and the doors now swing freely if the inside button is tapped or if the fat part of the door handle is pressed. Just like the front doors, as it should have been all along.

I must say I'm disappointed with Tesla twice on this one. First for selling me a car in which the rear doors weren't properly adjusted, and second for sending a technician who didn't recognize the issue for what it was.

 

[Acousticmood]

Don’t stick your finger in the gap (as you might the front door) to pull it open as it will close back up .... on your finger.

 

[AquaMan]

I had to buy the torx bit which is a T50 size and cost $2.80.

Correction: T45 size

 

[DopeGhoti]

Interestingly, I just tested this on my Model 3 (Sep 2019 build) and the rear windows do not behave as described in this thread.

 

[jsmay311]

Although the work is very easy, this fix took a LOT of trial and error on my part. Open, shut, open, loosen, adjust, tighten... Repeat. And the loop moves not only horizontally, but also vertically, so if someone needs to duplicate this fix, be aware of that. Spent a good hour on it.

That was exactly my experience when I tried adjusting the striker on my Model 3. It's hard to find the sweet spot where the doors will open and escape the latch consistently but also not be too difficult to fully close when shutting the door.

And since the door seals also play a role in all this, and the stiffness of the rubber is affected by temperature, I've just come to accept that I won't get the doors to open and clear the latch 100% of the time in all weather conditions. :-\

 

[jsmay311]

There is really a thing called door pop actuator... at least on our Model X.

It's definitely in the Model 3 as well. If I slowly/gently push the doors close on my Model 3, the actuator will kick in just before the door latches and actually physically push against you trying to open the door.

 

[MrFusion]

Thanks for the tips here. My rear doors do the same thing, 9/19 build. I got a T45 bit today and tinkered with them for awhile. I used some painter’s tape to mark the start position and ended up only moving it maybe 1-2mm inboard. It still doesn’t clear the latch most of the time from just pushing the button but it doesn’t do the window dance and will open a lot easier if you apply even the slightest amount of outward force while pushing the button. I found that if I adjusted it even just a hair more it made slamming the door a requirement to get it to close. So... still not working as smoothly as the front doors but at least it will open most of the time on the first try if you’re pushing out at all on the door.

I would have mobile service tweak it but I’m not sure what else they could do and it sounds like it’s not even clear if they’ll recognize it as an issue based on what others have said.

 

[MrFusion]

Of course now my OCD is kicking in and I’m wondering if by adjusting the latch now the door doesn’t sit as flush with the rear quarter panel as it used to... ughhhh

 

[MrFusion]

Okay I looked at the doors more and I don’t think adjust the latch or the catch is the key. I think those adjustments are more for making sure the door sits flush with the rest of the body. I tweaked mine a little bit more so the doors sit flush now and the dancing window is gone but the door definitely doesn’t pop open just from pushing the button. You have to push on the door while pushing the button. I think the real issue is that the seal material isn’t providing enough outward pressure on the door (as previously discussed). The latch should be able to be adjusted so the door is flush with the body and then the material should provide enough pressure to pop the door away from the car.

 

[Peterkn4]

I was looking into why my rear doors on my 2018 M3 do not pop out and I don't think it's the foam seals. If you look closely while opening and closing the door from the outside, you can see the foam isn't engaged but there's still a little push from the front and not the back. Roll your window down and hold the door handle from the outside while you push the door into closed position gently.
I think it's hinge area that pops it out. Each door has 2 hinges and 1 mystery hinge (not the wire harness). This mystery hinge is what holds the door open at specific angles but I think it pops the door out for the front doors. The mystery hinge is a different design for the rear doors vs the front doors.
The fix? Other than stuffing cushiony things at the catch, I think maybe we can add a spring to the hinges to push out. Or maybe, if they someday create a mystery hinge that pops the door out for the rear, we can replace ours with it.