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Window is not making proper contact with the seal

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I’m new here, but had to post to see if anybody has experienced a similar issue I’m having and what the fix might be. I have a problem with the driver’s side window making proper contact with the seal. Tesla SC has sent it to the body shop twice now to come up with a fix, but has yet to resolve it. What has been done so far is impacting it with a ton of foam and what looks to be a black glue but this doesn’t seem to be helping and now looks funny when the door is open. They are going to try one more time with a part that is currently on back order, but in the meantime I’m curious if there are others experiencing something similar and what the fix might be. This is a brand new M3P with under 1000 miles on it.
 
Welcome. Lots of threads about this across the Tesla fora. Depending on the SC/MS - you will get a very different response and hence experience with this issue.

Know that these are the main variables at play are, they can serve as your levers to pull to get a flush fit, good seal:

- glass adjustment inside the door frame (there are a two or three degrees of freedom here and write ups for a DIY or to help explain what service should be doing)
- door hinge adjustment
- glass up/down and max position adjustment (in Teslas software suite)
- weather stripping forming, conditioning
- weather stripping replacement

The lamintated double pane glass your newer Model 3 has can make glass adjustments and a flush fit trickier vs older single pane side glass on older cars. It can be done, just requires more effort.

Note that what you are dealing with is an eventually unavoidable 'feature' of modern frameless windows. Even with a perfect flush fit and a good seal all around, the window/door stripping will shrink and become more brittle with age and UV exposure, and a few years from now, only replacing the stripping will restore a good seal.
 
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What I don’t understand is why would they switch to a double pane glass then if it doesn’t sit properly within the seal? I know they’ve already made several “tweaks/adjustments” so I’m not sure what the actual solve will be but I really don’t wanna live with air coming into the cabin every time I exceed speeds higher than 60 mph.
 
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As you likely know, the build quality on the 3/Y and even revised S/X is econobox territory, just something you have to accept with these things. The lack of any ICE noise (engine, exhaust, etc) brings other noises to the forefront, including wind, tire, suspension, interior rattles, squeaks etc.

They should: check the triangle pieces upfront (Tesla-speak: A pillar applique)
, confirm/make sure they do the glass tilt adjustment using the bolts within the door frame, consider changing the door/window seal (especially if they manhandled the original past its plasticity).

However, regardless of what we or you suggest to them, so long as you want your SC/MS to handle the fix under warranty, then you are at the mercy of that particular center/tech and their skill, experience, ignorance.

If at all possible, try another SC, ideally one with good regional reviews on here or across the web.
 
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Make sure to Formula 303 all the rubber right from the beginning for better longevity.

Mine also has a mini wrinkle up high near B pillar, over 80mph bit of whistling.
I took it to the SC and they basically said it was normal behavior and nothing was coming in from the outside it was the noise of going around the glass not into the cabin. That was what they said. It’s still super loud and annoying.
 
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I had a problem with the door seal where when I washed the car and water would leak inside and drip down on the inner door panel. There might have also been a noise problem too, but I never noticed any noise while driving at speeds.

Before Tesla Mobile Service showed up I had already prepared strips of photo copy paper. With the door shut and window up, I showed the Tesla mechanic how I could easily slip the paper from the outside along the seal into the inside of the car. Where the seal made contact with the glass, the paper would buckle and not easily pass thru.

It was only in a couple spots where the seal wasn't making contact with the glass, but this demonstrated where the seal was defective. Tesla Mobile Service replaced the door seal with a new one and the problem was solved.

If you inspect the door seal, it is possible to see how it was manufactured in pieces and bonded together before vulcanization. The door seal is not a one piece molded product which would make the part less likely to have defects.
 
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I am in the middle of dealing with this on my 2020 M3 LR. I've noticed that the air noise comes from the top-rear corner of the two front door windows. I've seen posts detailing the insertion of a vertical seal between the front glass and B pillar glass, which seems to make sense. And I notice that the noise isn't so bad until I roll down the window and then roll it back up, and then it gets even more loud at highway speeds. I thought that that the window wasn't rolling back up completely, but I did some testing and measuring and it seems to be rolling back up fine. I do think that when you enter the car and shut the door the glass makes a better seal, followed by the glass raising up that last cm once the door shuts. You don't get that when you simply roll down/up the window while driving, and therefore the seal is more loose. When I then push on the inside of the glass while driving, it noticeably makes it more quiet, therefore the glass needs more seal material. And yes, I agree with Perscitus: Teslas are amazing, but junk-ass build quality all around. I'm likely not getting another Tesla until they invest some of their profits in new designs to correct all this garbage. The new Volvo electric (for a family car), Audis and I'm sure Ford Mach-E likely don't have these issues.
 
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I am in the middle of dealing with this on my 2020 M3 LR. I've noticed that the air noise comes from the top-rear corner of the two front door windows. I've seen posts detailing the insertion of a vertical seal between the front glass and B pillar glass, which seems to make sense. And I notice that the noise isn't so bad until I roll down the window and then roll it back up, and then it gets even more loud at highway speeds. I thought that that the window wasn't rolling back up completely, but I did some testing and measuring and it seems to be rolling back up fine. I do think that when you enter the car and shut the door the glass makes a better seal, followed by the glass raising up that last cm once the door shuts. You don't get that when you simply roll down/up the window while driving, and therefore the seal is more loose. When I then push on the inside of the glass while driving, it noticeably makes it more quiet, therefore the glass needs more seal material. And yes, I agree with Perscitus: Teslas are amazing, but junk-ass build quality all around. I'm likely not getting another Tesla until they invest some of their profits in new designs to correct all this garbage. The new Volvo electric (for a family car), Audis and I'm sure Ford Mach-E likely don't have these issues.
If the seal is not defective, then the window regulator mechanism needs adjustment to align the glass with the seal. This type alignment requires removing the interior door trim panel. There are YouTube.com videos showing how it is done.

You won't find another EV currently, that has the same level of safety and battery life of a Tesla. Those features are part of the build quality.
 
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If the seal is not defective, then the window regulator mechanism needs adjustment to align the glass with the seal. This type alignment requires removing the interior door trim panel. There are YouTube.com videos showing how it is done.

You won't find another EV currently, that has the same level of safety and battery life of a Tesla. Those features are part of the build quality.
 
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thanks Borland. Are you referring to vertical alignment? Visually, it seems like the window is as high as it should be, but that's to my amateur eyes. Is there an alignment adjustment that controls how close/tight the window pane rests against the window seal? I saw the videos online for adjusting the two bolts inside the door panel to adjust the fore and aft heights of the window pane.
 
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Both the vertical and horizontal alignment, plus the angle. The Tesla Service Manual details this, For the driver's door glass, you have to remove front door speaker to access the forward adjustment and use a hex/allen wrench. Rearward adjustment, see below. Tesla still offers free 1-year online subscription for viewing the Service Documents.

1673562392646.png


Not for the average Joe, so I wouldn't recommend to anyone. There is this YouTube.com video on this, but he only pulls the trim panel and adjusts the Vertical and Horizontal alignment, not the angle.

Regulator Alignment Adjustment

Hope that helps.
 
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Both the vertical and horizontal alignment, plus the angle. The Tesla Service Manual details this, For the driver's door glass, you have to remove front door speaker to access the forward adjustment and use a hex/allen wrench. Rearward adjustment, see below. Tesla still offers free 1-year online subscription for viewing the Service Documents.

View attachment 894993

Not for the average Joe, so I wouldn't recommend to anyone. There is this YouTube.com video on this, but he only pulls the trim panel and adjusts the Vertical and Horizontal alignment, not the angle.

Regulator Alignment Adjustment

Hope that helps.
Thank you again. I’ll likely give it a go before I try to pack in more door seals.
 
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My car is in the service center for its fifth visit for both front windows not sealing. Most of the time, the techs cant hear it. This last time, the tech heard it and said it was normal.

Really not sure what they are doing with my car now. They have had it for four days.
 
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