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Winter with a Tesla

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It’s the time of year when this forum starts to get new winter related posts. Thankfully there is already a wealth of information in the forum.
We’ll take it as read that few people read the manual and the advice it contains for cold weather.
Let’s start with probably the most common query as temperatures drop -

Where did my miles go?
Put very simply, batteries don’t like the cold. They like to work at an optimum temperature and your car will do all it can to keep them at this temperature. That means it will use some of the energy in your battery to heat them up and to keep them warm. This obviously uses more energy than in summer when the ambient temperature is higher. It also takes a wee bit of time to get the batteries warm so they will be less efficient before they come up to temperature. You’ll also lose more energy when charging in winter as the batteries have usually got to heat up to charge as efficiently as possible. If you are heading to a Supercharger the car will automatically preheat the battery during your drive. This can seem to be a bit variable, but depends on a host of factors such as outside temp, battery temp, distance etc. Even if you are not heading to a supercharger to charge, you can trick the car into pre-heating by selecting a supercharger as the destination in the navigation. The car should start to preheat and when you arrive at your non-supercharger charger the battery will charge faster due to it being a bit warmer.

Keep an eye out for the snowflake icon on the screen. this indicates that the battery is cold and the car has reserved some of the capacity. You’ll probably notice it when your battery capacity or miles remaining jumps up. This is the car releasing the reserved capacity now that the battery is warm.

Aside from batteries there is at least one other component that likes to stay warm - the driver and possibly passengers. If it’s cold outside more energy will be needed to heat the cabin and therefore there will be less available to drive the wheels. This also applies when you’re sitting in the car while charging.

Also the weather can have an impact on your efficiency too. While in the UK & I we can get heavy rain in the summer, it is much more common in winter and is therefore more noticeable. Thankfully Tesla have started to incorporate the weather in trip range calculations, but I’m not sure it will accommodate the 4 seasons in one day we get here.

What does all this mumbo jumbo mean to you? It means that you will get less range with your car than you did in the summer. There are lots of threads that delve into this deeper if you want to understand how it impacts you.

Incidentally ICE cars are impacted by cold weather as well. They are just so inefficient that the loss due to the cold is less obvious and a lot of the waste is heat which can be quite useful at this time of year.

What Tyres?
As the weather starts to deteriorate people’s thoughts will start to drift (no pun intended) to the best tyres for winter use. If you can afford them and can be bothered with changing them, then winter tyres offer the best performance in sub 7C temperatures. Nowadays though you also have very good all season tyres. Again plenty of threads that deal with the pros and cons of each type and what size is needed for various Tesla models. Just don’t make the mistake this driver did by thinking that AWD makes your car invincible.

Your tyre pressures will also be affected by the cold weather. Pressure drops by about 1-2psi for every 10C drop in air temperature. Therefore if you pumped your tyres up in the summer, by the time winter comes - and don’t forget those cold autumnal mornings - you could see quite a substantial drop in your tyre pressures. It is also not uncommon for each tyre to have different temperatures especially first thing in the morning. I often see this when one side of the car has been heated by the sun and the other is in shade. I’ve even seen just one tyre heated by the sun and the rest at a much lower pressure. Keep an eye on them and follow best practice for winter use.

Windscreen washer
The size of the fluid reservoir can be found in the manual. What you put in it has already been discussed and this is largely a matter of personal choice. What you used in your last car will likely work in your Tesla, it ain’t that special.

Ice, ice baby
Frosty mornings also bring frozen windows, doors, charging ports etc. There are some precautions you can take to mitigate the impact of these, but there are also some good threads in the forum about what can go wrong and how to get in your car if something is frozen.

Cold windows can sometimes lead to condensation on the inside and occasionally ’steam/smoke’ when charging. It’s not unusual for the tail lights in particular to be affected. Lots of posts about what Tesla consider to be ‘within spec’ for this.

You may also hear your car making more noises than usual. This is likely the heat pump moving heat around the car and battery. It’s even mentioned in the manual along with some sample sounds.

If you have an LR or Performance you’ll have 4 wheel drive, but that doesn’t mean you can drive like Hannu Mikkola in snow and ice. Without decent tyres, see above, you’ll just slide in a potentially expensive manner. A RWD car with winter/All season tyres will out perform an AWD car with summer tyres in these conditions.

If you have any other links to existing threads then please post them. Most of all, use the search function, it's not our first winter :)

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"Tesla Model 3 Bola B16" by Bola Wheels is marked with Public Domain Mark 1.0.
(Note: Above Image added by TMC admin)
 
I've concluded that its having the heat on auto and pre-conditioning scheduled that's using the battery.

Last night it was 98% and this morning 97% but I'd forgotten to turn the auto setting (in the heating controls) and pre-conditioning schedule off at my home location so it went from 97% to 91%

So I'm going to just manually turn on the heating from the app 5-10 mins before I leave and see what difference it makes as it seems to warm up pretty quickly whereas the scheduled pre-condition comes on 30 mins before I leave so no wonder its using so much battery.
 
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I've concluded that its having the heat on auto and pre-conditioning scheduled that's using the battery.

Last night it was 98% and this morning 97% but I'd forgotten to turn the auto setting (in the heating controls) and pre-conditioning schedule off at my home location so it went from 97% to 91%

So I'm going to just manually turn on the heating from the app 5-10 mins before I leave and see what difference it makes as it seems to warm up pretty quickly whereas the scheduled pre-condition comes on 30 mins before I leave so no wonder its using so much battery.
Yes that's the point - you're using electric whilst plugged in to pre-con the battery so it's warmer for your drive, instead of doing it during the drive very slowly and suffering decreased efficiency (or before you reach a charger which is the worst-case scenario for cost/efficiency in comparison). It's case specific, but not running pre-con on the battery whilst you're plugged in at home might cost you more. i.e. if you can pre-con the battery in your off-peak window, and not have the battery return to a block of ice before you drive it, it's worth doing 9/10 in my case so worth considering.

Also, yep warming through a huge lump of a battery takes more energy in these conditions than it does to bring the cabin temp up.

I normally pre-con the battery using schedule before 6am so that it does that off-peak, and then run the defrost for 5-10 mins just before hopping in the car. This means that as long as you're not eating into potential range added that you desperately need for the journey, you get decent regen right from the off, the battery isn't a glacier and the cabin is just warm enough.

If we regularly saw -10 c or worse in this country I might not bother, but currently the above makes sense I think.
 
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I don't plug in at home as I'm on a fairly high tariff and can charge at work during the day for free.

I did try it one night last week and it used around 6kw so at 40p was £2.40 just to warm up which I know isn't a lot but it adds up if doing it every day.

As you say it'll be interesting to see how much the range is impacted on a manual 10 minute warm up compared to a scheduled 30 minute warm up.
 
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I thought all frameless cars dropped their windows to allow the door to open? I had an early BMW Mini that did ... and oh my goodness, it certainly suffered in the winter!
you can also try something called Gummi Pflege to basically place a light layer of lubricant on your window seals/gaskets to keep your windowsfrom freezing to them. there are a few discussions and videos out there about this.
 
I am sure that is not the best way to calculate your range. There are various threads related to how to calculate the approximate range. Though Tesla’s calculations have improved over time still there are other more rigorous way to calculate range and efficiency.
You are definitely right, the trip summary page claimed 256wh/mile was my average which would give a range of 236miles based on a full 60KW battery pack being used although I know that isn't the usable amount so 210 miles is still a pretty accurate real life guess.
 
I set the interior to 25C with seat and steering wheel heaters on, 5 mins before I get in the car. It's plenty warm enough by then to be comfortable, and defogs the front window too if needed by hitting the defrost button.

It barely uses 1% of battery doing it that way, and after the first 5 mins of driving the cabin is fully warm and I then turn the heated seat/wheel off.

I've never lost much battery doing it that way. I don't precondition the battery either. Yesterday it took away my regen for 10 mins of driving until the battery warmed up, but then it came back on. Having to use the brakes every now and again is a good thing any way. Stops them rusting up and needing servicing more often.

Edit - I should qualify all that by mentioning the car is never plugged in at home as I public charge.
 
WBAC is now down to £31 for a 2020, 21k M3P
You shouldn't value your car on what the trade offers. I recently sold my Model S for 5k more than WBAC offerd. Took around 9 days on Autotrader.

I did the same when I bought the my old Model S, Tesla offered 17.5k for an Audi A7 I had, I stuck on Ebay for 26k and sold it in 2 days. People give away their cars all too frequently now days. There are people looking for good genuine non trade vehicles that have been looked after.
 
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you can also try something called Gummi Pflege to basically place a light layer of lubricant on your window seals/gaskets to keep your windowsfrom freezing to them. there are a few discussions and videos out there about this.
Yes, I've been using Gummi Pledge for a few years and it's great for general purpose reconditioning of seals and reducing some sticking (though I think a major freeze of thick ice may even be beyond those kind of products ... but definitely worth including in winter preparation ...)
 
I set the interior to 25C with seat and steering wheel heaters on, 5 mins before I get in the car. It's plenty warm enough by then to be comfortable, and defogs the front window too if needed by hitting the defrost button.

It barely uses 1% of battery doing it that way, and after the first 5 mins of driving the cabin is fully warm and I then turn the heated seat/wheel off.

I've never lost much battery doing it that way. I don't precondition the battery either. Yesterday it took away my regen for 10 mins of driving until the battery warmed up, but then it came back on. Having to use the brakes every now and again is a good thing any way. Stops them rusting up and needing servicing more often.

Edit - I should qualify all that by mentioning the car is never plugged in at home as I public charge.
Isn't there a setting now that makes one pedal driving still possible even when regen is limited by blending the brakes?
 
It was mentioned in the May update 2022.16 that if regeneration was limited then the car would use the brakes but I don't know if it was ever activated.

 
It was mentioned in the May update 2022.16 that if regeneration was limited then the car would use the brakes but I don't know if it was ever activated.

Yeah as @WllXM said it isn't mentioned in the UK manual like it is in the US - potentially some regulatory reason.

My e-tron blends regen brakes and conventional brakes but on the brake pedal and cruise control systems moderate braking downhill nowadays so that would be suprising if true.
 
Yes, I've been using Gummi Pledge for a few years and it's great for general purpose reconditioning of seals and reducing some sticking (though I think a major freeze of thick ice may even be beyond those kind of products ... but definitely worth including in winter preparation ...)
I use it as well but not for that reason. After a few months my 2019 M3 started making what sounded like a horrible rattle from the doors. Turned out to be the doors and glass moving against the seals as the body flexed. No idea why it sounded more like a rattle. Gummi sorted it out completely, 100% went away. Only had to re-apply it about once a year. Great stuff. well worth the money.
 
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Since there is not a "winter with a wife" thread I will post here.
My wife was at work yesterday and given that it was subzero she thought it would be a good idea to preheat the car before leaving her desk.
On arriving in the car park she suddenly remembered she was not actually in the Tesla so she had switched on preheat in a car that was on our drive.
How we laughed when she told me about it later....... right up to the point where I jokingly asked so you turned it off again right? right??
nope.
Outside temp was -4 and the climate was set on "Hi". Car was at 28 degrees inside. Used 7-8% of the battery in 40minutes without turning a wheel. :rolleyes:

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I jokingly asked so you turned it off again right?

Used to be there was a time limit on that ... at the point at which OTA update changed to "indefinite" I had Climate-On scheduled for early morning, weekdays, for Wifee to go to work ... but it was Christmas so she ... ermmm ... didn't go to work.

I went out some time between Boxing day and New Years to find the car toasty warm with Climate having been on continuously ...