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Winter with a Tesla

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It’s the time of year when this forum starts to get new winter related posts. Thankfully there is already a wealth of information in the forum.
We’ll take it as read that few people read the manual and the advice it contains for cold weather.
Let’s start with probably the most common query as temperatures drop -

Where did my miles go?
Put very simply, batteries don’t like the cold. They like to work at an optimum temperature and your car will do all it can to keep them at this temperature. That means it will use some of the energy in your battery to heat them up and to keep them warm. This obviously uses more energy than in summer when the ambient temperature is higher. It also takes a wee bit of time to get the batteries warm so they will be less efficient before they come up to temperature. You’ll also lose more energy when charging in winter as the batteries have usually got to heat up to charge as efficiently as possible. If you are heading to a Supercharger the car will automatically preheat the battery during your drive. This can seem to be a bit variable, but depends on a host of factors such as outside temp, battery temp, distance etc. Even if you are not heading to a supercharger to charge, you can trick the car into pre-heating by selecting a supercharger as the destination in the navigation. The car should start to preheat and when you arrive at your non-supercharger charger the battery will charge faster due to it being a bit warmer.

Keep an eye out for the snowflake icon on the screen. this indicates that the battery is cold and the car has reserved some of the capacity. You’ll probably notice it when your battery capacity or miles remaining jumps up. This is the car releasing the reserved capacity now that the battery is warm.

Aside from batteries there is at least one other component that likes to stay warm - the driver and possibly passengers. If it’s cold outside more energy will be needed to heat the cabin and therefore there will be less available to drive the wheels. This also applies when you’re sitting in the car while charging.

Also the weather can have an impact on your efficiency too. While in the UK & I we can get heavy rain in the summer, it is much more common in winter and is therefore more noticeable. Thankfully Tesla have started to incorporate the weather in trip range calculations, but I’m not sure it will accommodate the 4 seasons in one day we get here.

What does all this mumbo jumbo mean to you? It means that you will get less range with your car than you did in the summer. There are lots of threads that delve into this deeper if you want to understand how it impacts you.

Incidentally ICE cars are impacted by cold weather as well. They are just so inefficient that the loss due to the cold is less obvious and a lot of the waste is heat which can be quite useful at this time of year.

What Tyres?
As the weather starts to deteriorate people’s thoughts will start to drift (no pun intended) to the best tyres for winter use. If you can afford them and can be bothered with changing them, then winter tyres offer the best performance in sub 7C temperatures. Nowadays though you also have very good all season tyres. Again plenty of threads that deal with the pros and cons of each type and what size is needed for various Tesla models. Just don’t make the mistake this driver did by thinking that AWD makes your car invincible.

Your tyre pressures will also be affected by the cold weather. Pressure drops by about 1-2psi for every 10C drop in air temperature. Therefore if you pumped your tyres up in the summer, by the time winter comes - and don’t forget those cold autumnal mornings - you could see quite a substantial drop in your tyre pressures. It is also not uncommon for each tyre to have different temperatures especially first thing in the morning. I often see this when one side of the car has been heated by the sun and the other is in shade. I’ve even seen just one tyre heated by the sun and the rest at a much lower pressure. Keep an eye on them and follow best practice for winter use.

Windscreen washer
The size of the fluid reservoir can be found in the manual. What you put in it has already been discussed and this is largely a matter of personal choice. What you used in your last car will likely work in your Tesla, it ain’t that special.

Ice, ice baby
Frosty mornings also bring frozen windows, doors, charging ports etc. There are some precautions you can take to mitigate the impact of these, but there are also some good threads in the forum about what can go wrong and how to get in your car if something is frozen.

Cold windows can sometimes lead to condensation on the inside and occasionally ’steam/smoke’ when charging. It’s not unusual for the tail lights in particular to be affected. Lots of posts about what Tesla consider to be ‘within spec’ for this.

You may also hear your car making more noises than usual. This is likely the heat pump moving heat around the car and battery. It’s even mentioned in the manual along with some sample sounds.

If you have an LR or Performance you’ll have 4 wheel drive, but that doesn’t mean you can drive like Hannu Mikkola in snow and ice. Without decent tyres, see above, you’ll just slide in a potentially expensive manner. A RWD car with winter/All season tyres will out perform an AWD car with summer tyres in these conditions.

If you have any other links to existing threads then please post them. Most of all, use the search function, it's not our first winter :)

49588601437_2eacee773a_b.jpg

"Tesla Model 3 Bola B16" by Bola Wheels is marked with Public Domain Mark 1.0.
(Note: Above Image added by TMC admin)
 
And to add something (semi)useful to this thread..

Left for work in a rush Friday night and thought the fog was really really bad, turned out it was a sheet of ice over my headlights significantly affecting their brightness (aka I could see f all). Shifted a bit of it off and suddenly illuminated!

I sort of expected the defrost / preheating would help out there, but there's part of the joy of not having an engine :)

I couldn't see this in the wiki / Tesla winter driving link.. is it worth popping in for the unsuspecting like me?
 
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This morning I wanted to get a few things out of the car. It was completely frosted so I tried the remote open door command. Didn’t move an inch, so that’s useless.

Also, I got a message saying my charge port would need servicing. So I tried to plug my charger in and everything was throwing errors. Tried to remove the charger but it wouldn’t budge. I put the car on defrost for 15 minutes and tried again and all was fine.

I suspect the cold was the culprit but didn’t happen the previous Winters. Then again I’m on my third charge port/door so maybe my current set has been manufactured differently.
 
Left for work in a rush Friday night and thought the fog was really really bad, turned out it was a sheet of ice over my headlights significantly affecting their brightness (aka I could see f all). Shifted a bit of it off and suddenly illuminated!


If you're able to predict a frosty morning, and can remember the night before, spraying de-icer on the headlights helps to prevent the build up of ice.
 
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Just wondered what percent battery people are losing when parked? With this cold weather my 2022 rwd seems to lose around 5% over night then another 3% pre heating. If I leave it plugged in obviously it loses nothing but costs around £1.70 in electric just to keep it at the same battery level.
With pre-heating the driving range doesn't seem massively affected still says around 266 miles on a full charge.
Does all of this sound about right, had the car since March so its my first winter with it.
 
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Just wondered what percent battery people are losing when parked? With this cold weather my 2022 rwd seems to lose around 5% over night then another 3% pre heating. If I leave it plugged in obviously it loses nothing but costs around £1.70 in electric just to keep it at the same battery level.
With pre-heating the driving range doesn't seem massively affected still says around 266 miles on a full charge.
Does all of this sound about right, had the car since March so its my first winter with it.
Got sentry on? That sounds about right. If not then search the hundreds of threads about battery loss overnight.
 
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Just wondered what percent battery people are losing when parked? With this cold weather my 2022 rwd seems to lose around 5% over night then another 3% pre heating. If I leave it plugged in obviously it loses nothing but costs around £1.70 in electric just to keep it at the same battery level.
With pre-heating the driving range doesn't seem massively affected still says around 266 miles on a full charge.
Does all of this sound about right, had the car since March so its my first winter with it.
Assuming the car is sleeping/ no sentry then this loss may not be real. if you arrive home with a warm battery or charge the car which warms the battery then leave the car overnight and let the battery cool to -2 degrees then you are going to see a drop off in voltage due to temp which is going to make the state of charge appear lower. If that is what is happening then you will get the missing charge back when you drive and the battery warms up you just wont realise it.
If you don't drive and let it sit in the sun and warm up you will also see the state of charge rise some.

having said all that 5% is a lot for battery cooling so you really need to check the sentry /sleeping thing

Also 3% preheating also seems a lot. 3% is over 2kwh unless you have an SR+ how long are you pre-heating for? should be able to run the heating for an hour on 3% even in this weather
 
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Its an lfp battery car (if that makes much difference) I set the preheat for the time I'm going to leave the house or office and I normally get the notification that the car has reached temp about 10-15 mins before I leave.
I don't tend to plug in at home (i.e. overnight) as I can charge at the office for free most days.
 
Its an lfp battery car (if that makes much difference) I set the preheat for the time I'm going to leave the house or office and I normally get the notification that the car has reached temp about 10-15 mins before I leave.
I don't tend to plug in at home (i.e. overnight) as I can charge at the office for free most days.
even in these conditions I find 10 minutes is plenty to warm the car cabin and melt ice. It sounds like you are preheating for 20-25 which is far longer than is necessary. But if you are getting free leccy then no worries.
I don't know much about LFP, maybe they are affected more by cold so it could be this loss is entirely down to temperature drop off. I know the voltage varies a lot less between full and empty with LFP so the BMS struggles to stay calibrated (hence the need to charge to 100% from time to time to calibrate BMS) so it may well be that the apparent loss due to cooling would appear much greater in LFP.
are you checking the battery % when you first get home as the start point? if so try checking it a 2-3 hours later and compare that with state of charge in the morning. If most of the loss is happening in that 2-3 hours then its the cold weather voltage drop. if it loses battery steadily overnight then it may not be sleeping. There are plenty of threads on this and how to check it
 
The snowflake icon is the clue. 3rd paragraph in OP:

Keep an eye out for the snowflake icon on the screen. this indicates that the battery is cold and the car has reserved some of the capacity. You’ll probably notice it when your battery capacity or miles remaining jumps up. This is the car releasing the reserved capacity now that the battery is warm.
 
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I'm charging at my dads at the moment as he's on a much lower tariff than me and it will be at 100% by the time I leave so when I get home later it should be on about 98% so I'll see what it is after a couple of hours then again in the morning.
 
even in these conditions I find 10 minutes is plenty to warm the car cabin and melt ice. It sounds like you are preheating for 20-25 which is far longer than is necessary.

Its difficult to tell how long you need to pre condition for. its one thing defrosting the windows, but another thing getting access to interior or unplugging charge cable.

Couple of days ago, we had a dry -3. After 17 minutes and over 2 kWh of battery consumed, still could not freely open the boot or door handles. Thankfully car had not been on charge. Even after a further 19 minute drive, passenger door handle could not be opened and needed to be opened from inside.

And this was having done WD40 and Gummi Pfledge in September. I have subsequently been out and reapplied this afternoon as I have a pre 5am start tomorrow morning, although I suspect that I will be taking my ICE as its much quicker to get into a driveable state and street lights don't come on until 5am and Tesla ones are still frozen and I'm not comfortable putting deicer on plastic lenses.
 
Its difficult to tell how long you need to pre condition for. its one thing defrosting the windows, but another thing getting access to interior or unplugging charge cable.

Couple of days ago, we had a dry -3. After 17 minutes and over 2 kWh of battery consumed, still could not freely open the boot or door handles. Thankfully car had not been on charge. Even after a further 19 minute drive, passenger door handle could not be opened and needed to be opened from inside.

And this was having done WD40 and Gummi Pfledge in September. I have subsequently been out and reapplied this afternoon as I have a pre 5am start tomorrow morning, although I suspect that I will be taking my ICE as its much quicker to get into a driveable state and street lights don't come on until 5am and Tesla ones are still frozen and I'm not comfortable putting deicer on plastic lenses.
You consumed 2kwh of energy in 17minutes heating the car? seems like a lot. That is a power consumption of 7KW.
Not sure of the output of the heaters / heat pump but. to put it in context the most powerful fan heater you can buy domestically is 3KW. So this would be the equivalent of running 2 of those at the same time and you would still have 1kw spare. Can the car really consume that much pre heating?
 
You consumed 2kwh of energy in 17minutes heating the car? seems like a lot. That is a power consumption of 7KW.
Not sure of the output of the heaters / heat pump but. to put it in context the most powerful fan heater you can buy domestically is 3KW. So this would be the equivalent of running 2 of those at the same time and you would still have 1kw spare. Can the car really consume that much pre heating?
I will check tomorrow but I think I get similar (M3P). Expecting -3c here tonight and normally hit defrost after getting out of the shower - giving me 15-20 mins to be dressed and out the door. While plugged in at home I don’t think I see a battery loss but on the 3-pin at work I do. (Leave from work to get to work 5 days a week and commute at weekends) that’s probably made things as clear as mud 😂😂