Work on lighting lift gate appliqué begins

[Danal]

Based on the early feedback, there are a couple of small additions:

- Brake "Scroll center out". Just what it sounds like, light up bright red from the center (the "S") and progress outward equally in both directions. This is configurable, raising the brake options to four (Steady, Fixed rate blink, G-Sensitive blink, and G-Sensitive scroll center out blink). This took less than 20 minutes to code, because there was already similar function. Needs to be tested.


- "Parked Sensing" - Detect when the car is parked and, after a configurable 'timeout', switch to one of the non-road-worthy displays. Like Knightrider scrolling, or whatever you choose. This one may be tougher. With access ONLY to the Tail/Turn/etc wires, it is very difficult to tell a parked car from a car cruising down the road with no turn/braking changes. The "G" sensor will play a part... so at the moment, I won't commit to this, I'll just say I'm exploring it. And that exploration is going slowly because my main focus is ramping up the hardware shipments.



When the above code changes are made, call them V1.1, early adopters can update their module with a laptop. I will post detailed instructions at that time.



P.S. I finally put an applique on my own car. I've been putting them on and taking them off as part of the development cycle. Now that I have one semi-permanently installed, I agree with Artsci, the do attract a lot of attention.

 

[AlMc]

Rick, How are the "Reach the Beach' installs going? Do you still feel it is best to get a professional to install? Thanks

 

[DavidB]

Rick discovered some hardware issues last week during the test install. Until the fixes are made, all installs are cancelled. However, Rick was able to demonstrate what the finished product looks like, and he used my (partially disassembled) car to point out the various steps involved.

The install has many steps, is time consuming, helps to have at least two people, and is moderately difficult. I would advise most owners to seek out a professional installer. Shops that install high-end aftermarket stereo systems in cars should have the expertise to manage the install.

 

[bhuwan]

Looks fantastic! Great job!

 

[HankLloydRight]

How many hours would you estimate a high end shop to take to install it?

 

[artsci]

How many hours would you estimate a high end shop to take to install it?

This is just a guess but I would say 2-3 hours for an experienced shop. When we have the install instructions finished in a day or two I'll be taking them to my shop for an estimate and will post it here.

BTW, we've suspended sales until Danal has made the tested the mofications to the electronics.

Mine has continued to perform very well several heavy rains. So we've had a passed a test of waterproofing.

 

[JPP]

This is just a guess but I would say 2-3 hours for an experienced shop. When we have the install instructions finished in a day or two I'll be taking them to my shop for an estimate and will post it here.

BTW, we've suspended sales until Danal has made the tested the mofications to the electronics.

Mine has continued to perform very well several heavy rains. So we've had a passed a test of waterproofing.

Looking forward to your detailed installation instructions. Seems like you are trying to scare off most of us from trying to DIY install. For those of us who have had all of the inside trim on the rear hatch off and have wired a rear dash cam, is there a significant degree of added complexity to removing the old applique and installing the new one (plus wiring)?

 

[artsci]

Looking forward to your detailed installation instructions. Seems like you are trying to scare off most of us from trying to DIY install. For those of us who have had all of the inside trim on the rear hatch off and have wired a rear dash cam, is there a significant degree of added complexity to removing the old applique and installing the new one (plus wiring)?

Not really, just the volume of work involved. Probably the toughest part is threading wires through the rubber tube between the roof and lift gate. When everyone receives the instructions each can determine whether he or she wants to do a DYI or professional install.

 

[Danal]

I do not have a good feel for the skills of the average Tesla owner. I would say if you are comfortable with:

1) Removing and re-installing trim on clips that WILL break (order a bag before starting)
2) Tracing wires (because Tesla is notorious for individual cars with slightly different colors in the wiring harnesses)
3) Tapping wires with Posi-Tap (which is easy)
4) Following a long sequence of instructions, testing each step as you go
5) Basic troublshooting

That self-install is very realistic.


Of course, I'm the guy who bought a very expensive car, drove it home, and started taking it apart. YMMV

 

[FLDarren]

Not really, just the volume of work involved. Probably the toughest part is threading wires through the rubber tube between the roof and lift gate. When everyone receives the instruction each can determine whether he or she wants to do a DYI or professional install.

I bet it's safe to say if u installed the rear lighted T by yourself, u can install the appliqué by yourself. Am I right?

 

[AlMc]

I bet it's safe to say if u installed the rear lighted T by yourself, u can install the appliqué by yourself. Am I right?

That is my understanding. I stopped by the Newark SC Install and asked that very question.

 

[artsci]

I bet it's safe to say if u installed the rear lighted T by yourself, u can install the appliqué by yourself. Am I right?

Probably. The only step that's more difficult and complicated is running wires through the rubber tube. Otherwise the degree of difficulty is about the same.

 

[Danal]

I bet it's safe to say if u installed the rear lighted T by yourself, u can install the appliqué by yourself. Am I right?

The complexity is approximately the same. The total volume of work is about 3X, in terms of trim pieces, fishing wires, etc.

 

[FLDarren]

The complexity is approximately the same. The total volume of work is about 3X, in terms of trim pieces, fishing wires, etc.

Easy Peasy Lemon Squeezy :biggrin:

 

[kseitzberg]

Rick; I am about to install my BlackVue 650 rear cam.

Will the applique install use the rubber tube in the right side of the car?

If so I will install the wire for the rear camera in the left rubber rube.

 

[artsci]

Rick; I am about to install my BlackVue 650 rear cam.

Will the applique install use the rubber tube in the right side of the car?

If so I will install the wire for the rear camera in the left rubber rube.

Three wires are run through the passenger side tube. Danal recommends not using the driver's side tube as it carries wires that may cause interference.

 

[Danal]

Rick; I am about to install my BlackVue 650 rear cam.

Will the applique install use the rubber tube in the right side of the car?

If so I will install the wire for the rear camera in the left rubber rube.

You will find all Stock Tesla antenna wiring in the left tube, and all "12V" wiring in the right tube. I'd stay out of the left tube with any mods, even the video.

 

[JPP]

Not really, just the volume of work involved. Probably the toughest part is threading wires through the rubber tube between the roof and lift gate. When everyone receives the instructions each can determine whether he or she wants to do a DYI or professional install.

If I was able to fish the clunky 90 degree RF connector for the rear HD camera on my dual Blackvue through the boot (30 minutes of sweating and swearing), fishing a couple of UNterminated wires through the boot should be a piece of cake. No worries.

- - - Updated - - -

Rick; I am about to install my BlackVue 650 rear cam.

Will the applique install use the rubber tube in the right side of the car?

If so I will install the wire for the rear camera in the left rubber rube.

If you haven't already done some reading here on the TMC forums on installation of a dual camera Blackvue, you might do so now (see .http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/show...50-fron-rear)-constant-power-source-from-dash). I fished the Blackvue coax through the right hand/passenger side rubber sleeve/boot, which is not fun as the connector is a 90 degree RF type. Best way is to pass a 'fishing device' (I used a short segment of thin metal coathanger with a curved leading end) from the boot end at the hatch towards the C pillar, then hooked the cable a good bit down from the connector, then pulled back. I had a loop to pull with, and then fed the RF connector into the boot and gently pulled, pushed, massaged to get the connector out of the hatch end of the boot. Do this FIRST before adding/fishing any other wires through (like the ones needed for the new applique), as you will begin to run out of maneuvering room inside the boot to pull the Blackvue cable and RF connector later. And, BTW, I did NOT use any cable pulling lube.

 

[artsci]

If I was able to fish the clunky 90 degree RF connector for the rear HD camera on my dual Blackvue through the boot (30 minutes of sweating and swearing), fishing a couple of UNterminated wires through the boot should be a piece of cake. No worries. Do this FIRST before adding/fishing any other wires through (like the ones needed for the new applique), as you will begin to run out of maneuvering room inside the boot to pull the Blackvue cable and RF connector later. And, BTW, I did NOT use any cable pulling lube.

That was my problem -- another three wires had been fished through the tube for the rear Rydeen 360 camera, so there was little room to fish another three wires for the applique. So that fishing expedition took about 90 minutes. On Suprkars' car it took only 15 as he had only the stock wires running through the tube.

 

[pgiralt]

That was my problem -- another three wires had been fished through the tube for the rear Rydeen 360 camera, so there was little room to fish another three wires for the applique. So that fishing expedition took about 90 minutes. On Suprkars' car it took only 15 as he had only the stock wires running through the tube.

What are the three wires for? I seem to recall somewhere upthread that there was no need for wires from the front of the car to the rear hatch area. Did something change?