Yakima Full Tilt 5

[Emman]

Hello all,

I purchased the Yakima Full Tilt 5 to put on the Model Y hitch and seem to be having issues. At first, I pushed it all the way in (passed the hole) and using the red knob, tightened it really well. It didn’t move at all and was able to fit 5 bikes great.
After we returned from our ride, I was looking closely at the instructions and it says the pinhole should be lined up… however when I line it up, it sticks out way too much… thoughts?

 

[yourhero]

That pin absolutely needs to be in the hole. Tightening the knob prevents rattling; it is not enough to keep the rack safely installed.

Have a look at this to see if the hitch measurements are correct for your rack: Hitch Fit Tips.

I had the same concern about my Thule Apex XT 4, but then I read the instructions and measured the distance from the pin hole to the opening edge of the receiver (see the bottom of the second page) and saw that the Model Y hitch was (just barely) compliant.

 

[spokey]

@yourhero is right. It is a safety issue to prevent it (or a trailer) from sliding out).

My ridgeback has two holes and a pin instead of that spring pin. It also has a shorter 'depth' spec. On the second hole my 2" adapter is just a bit further in than your first photo. I think the other hole would line up about the same as your second photo. The adapter is the same for both these racks so it should be comparable.

Getting the pin in is a pain but unlike others who say they just can't, I can get it in. Took me 4 tries tonight I think. So maybe 1 1/2 minutes. I may try soaking the little spring ball thing in oil to see if that makes it easier.

The picture of my rack at Yakima only shows one hole and it looks like the wrong one to me. So if you want to try the ridgeback be careful of that. The ridgeback originally had one hole and didn't work on my 2015 Subaru. As it was the official rack you could buy from Subaru they had to change it.

I don't think where the hole/pin is matters as it's purpose to to keep the thing from sliding out. What I believe really matters is how far the rack slides in to the receiver.

All that said, I'm pretty sure that the the full tilt is the official Tesla hitch rack. They sell the 4 bike version. Their photos look like your second image so maybe it's OK. - Model X/Y Hitch Rack

However I do note a weight limit warning that is different than the tongue weight in the manual. Don't understand that,

Note: When carrying bicycles or other items on the Model X/Y hitch, always check to ensure that the maximum weight is not exceeded. The Model X/Y hitch is designed to support loading of up to 120 lbs.

Given the rack is 40 lbs, that would make the average bike weight limit for your rack a mere 16 lbs. That's a pretty light bike. The minimum weight for those $15,000 professional racing bikes is 15 lbs. But as I said, that doesn't make sense to me. Seems like the force from a trailer ball and a rack are at about the same place so why would the state a max of less than 1/2 the tongue weight.

 

[Emman]

Thanks for your replies. i just reached out to someone on YouTube who has the Tesla version and he confirmed it’s the same as mine. He just pushes it all the way in (passed the hole) so it’s flush and then tightens it really good. If Tesla sells the same one and says it’s compatible with the Y, I would assume it’s ok?
Regarding the pin, if the spring pin is past the hole on the hitch, that’s a good thing right? Like worst case scenario if it loosens and starts to slide, it would get caught in the hole on the way out?

 

[glide]

Thanks for your replies. i just reached out to someone on YouTube who has the Tesla version and he confirmed it’s the same as mine. He just pushes it all the way in (passed the hole) so it’s flush and then tightens it really good. If Tesla sells the same one and says it’s compatible with the Y, I would assume it’s ok?
Regarding the pin, if the spring pin is past the hole on the hitch, that’s a good thing right? Like worst case scenario if it loosens and starts to slide, it would get caught in the hole on the way out?

It’s not okay. Use the pin or don’t use the rack. Also note the 120lb hitch weight. You’re likely exceeding it with the hitch + 5 bikes.

You’re needlessly creating multiple safety hazards for those around you on the road.

 

[Billmister]

I’m in the same boat on deciding best bike rack for my needs.

I was going to submit my order on the Tesla bike rack however saw it’s actually the Yakima FullTilt 4 with rebranded Tesla stickers and almost $150 more tag. Since I was planning on roof cargo in the future I like to stick to one brand and Yakima makes then where Tesla doesn’t make roof cargo, they just make roof rack.

Anyway back to the comment on weight differences. The Tesla model Y/X support a maximum of 160lb of vertical weight(bicycles is an example). The Tesla Bike Rack (aka Yakima FullTilt 4) can hold a maximum of 120lb of weight. So I’m other works the rack can support a maximum of 120lb but the hitch supports maximum of 160lb. Taking the rack into account 40lb rack + 30lb each bike (120lb) = 160lb (Tesla max vertical weight limit.

Ensure that your rack plus the bike combine weight do not exceed 160lb.

Btw, as this thread is old, wondering if anyone purchased the Tesla bike rack or Yakima FullTilt 4 and have comments on it. I don’t own carbon fiber bikes so frame support is okay for the amount of times I plan to use the rack.

Model Y Tow Package | Tesla Support

Learn more about the Model Y Tow Package.

www.tesla.com

 

[BlueModY]

I’m in the same boat on deciding best bike rack for my needs.

I was going to submit my order on the Tesla bike rack however saw it’s actually the Yakima FullTilt 4 with rebranded Tesla stickers and almost $150 more tag. Since I was planning on roof cargo in the future I like to stick to one brand and Yakima makes then where Tesla doesn’t make roof cargo, they just make roof rack.

Anyway back to the comment on weight differences. The Tesla model Y/X support a maximum of 160lb of vertical weight(bicycles is an example). The Tesla Bike Rack (aka Yakima FullTilt 4) can hold a maximum of 120lb of weight. So I’m other works the rack can support a maximum of 120lb but the hitch supports maximum of 160lb. Taking the rack into account 40lb rack + 30lb each bike (120lb) = 160lb (Tesla max vertical weight limit.

Ensure that your rack plus the bike combine weight do not exceed 160lb.

Btw, as this thread is old, wondering if anyone purchased the Tesla bike rack or Yakima FullTilt 4 and have comments on it. I don’t own carbon fiber bikes so frame support is okay for the amount of times I plan to use the rack.

Model Y Tow Package | Tesla Support

Learn more about the Model Y Tow Package.

www.tesla.com

I have the 1Up on my Model Y. Super easy to install and use. With just the one-bike option (no add-ons) and no bike, I have full access to the hitch without having to do anything. And with a bike on, I can shift them down to access the hatch.

 

[spokey]

I went with Kuat for my MY but 1up was the runner up. I have a Yakima Ridgeback that is pretty much the same thing as the Yakima/Tesla but a bit cheaper.

I think the Tesla rack is a 1 1/4 with a 2" adapter which is what the Ridgeback is. I found it a pain to line the thing up to slide in to the receiver as with the 2" adapter the rack does not go in centered because the adapter is one side. Maybe worse is the design of the jamming device. It is a block that sort of swivels. When you tighten the knob it is forced outward along an incline in the tongue to jamb against the receiver. That is all fine. The problem is that that block can sort of flop around and not stay even with the square tongue you're trying to insert. So it would constantly shift a bit and prevent me from sliding it in to the receiver. The receiver in the MY is recessed so you can't see what is going on.

I take the rack off pretty much every time I use it so this was a big enough deal to spring for a new rack.

What I mostly liked about the 1up was that you could buy it as a one bike version. But as near as I can tell you have to order it on faith. Can't find it locally. What I didn't like was the jamming method. It appears to use a hex key so you need that around. As I said I remove the rack every time so that matters.

The Kuat is similar but it doesn't have a 1-bike version. I was able to see it before buying at REI. It's a little heavier than the Ridgeback but I found it easier to carry than the Ridgeback. You tighten/jamb in a similar manner to the 1up but it has a permanent knob. It tightens with a ball that is pushed out as you turn the knob. I have had no problem getting the tongue in from the first time I tried.

Both 1up and Kuat come with lock pins don't work with the MY. But Kuat sent me a free different (older) lock that works fine. I was also able to replace the core in the replacement locking pin with one that Kuat also sent for free. I think 1up will do something similar.

 

[BlueModY]

Both 1up and Kuat come with lock pins don't work with the MY. But Kuat sent me a free different (older) lock that works fine. I was also able to replace the core in the replacement locking pin with one that Kuat also sent for free. I think 1up will do something similar.

The locking pin that came with the 1up did work for my MY straight out of the box..... Yes, the 1up does use an allen key to tighten it. Two came with it, and I can keep one in my glove compartment and one at home as the backup.

 

[spokey]

Hmmm

wonder if they changed it. A lot of others reported it not working. The Kuat one, IIFC, comes with one with the lock facing the side of the car rather than the back. Not sure why that would ever be an advantage. There was a report of someone getting the Kuat on and not being able to get if off. The older lock works fine. I had bought a master lock from amazon waiting for the one from Kuat and while OK was not as easy to unlock as the Kuat. I typically get the key in the cylinder without looking. Just by feel. Couldn't do that with the master lock. Had to bend down or sit most of the time.

 

[Noflash]

Anyone get their Full Tilt safely installed? I'm going to move mine from the Subaru to the Y this weekend and am looking for fitment tips.

P.S. How do I pop off the hitch cover without scratching the plastic?

 

[spokey]

Anyone get their Full Tilt safely installed? I'm going to move mine from the Subaru to the Y this weekend and am looking for fitment tips.

P.S. How do I pop off the hitch cover without scratching the plastic?

My outback had a 1 1/4" receiver so I had to put the adapter on the Ridgeback to make it 2". I found it very frustrating to get the rack in the receiver. The adapter is on one side so the rack doesn't slide in exactly in the middle. Given I had to hold it standing up and could not see the opening of the receiver, I had a hard time lining it up. I finally put a piece of tape (I know heresy) to show me how to line it up.

Even then it was a pain. The part that jambs up when you tighten the knob would move as I tried to slide the rack in and block sliding the rack int. I would have to pull it out, move that block and try again. I had a bit of that problem with the Subaru but I think the adapter might have made it worse. Plus you could see what you were doing with the Subaru.

I got pretty frsutrated with the Yakmia rack, finally gave up, and bought a Kuat base V2. It is much better. Takes me seconds to slide in. It does tilt down but different than the Yakima full tilt. I expect the 1up works just as well.

As for the cover, there is a ton of discussion on that. A few claim they can get it on and off without issue. Most can't. There are a couple aftermarket covers. I bought mine from this guy - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0986F8CZZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . I have the original design which doesn't work with newer MYs and uses a spring instead of a magnet. I would not hesitate to replace it with the newer design. So much better. You just stick your index finger in that hole and pull it off. The spring model sometimes requires a bit of effort but I'm guessing the magnetic one is perfect.

 

[Tingumr]

@Emman, I have the same problem , when the Yakma rack pin is aligned with the hole the rack has a wobble, when fully pushed in is solid. Do you use the rack fully pushed in to the receiver.

 

[Tonedog77]

thule XTR pro 2. thank me later.

 

[Billmister]

don't mean to awaken this post but I'm in the same situation. I have the Yakima Full Tilt and it's the same.

As your second picture when the pin in on the hole I feel like although I tightened it really good, it slightly wobbles. I just feel like it’s meant to be pushed in all the way.

For the most part moat hitch bike racks must be used with the pin hole but in this case I “think” it’s a security feature that IF it starts sliding back, then it will catch with the self release pin.

Also I used it three times so far this summer. When I look at the bike rack with it half out, the bike right is slightly tilted to the drivers side. Also the 2” silver part the sticks half way out rubs on the edge of the hitch. I’m concerned that it will scrape bad and then rust. When I already saw scrapes of it.

I think I will test it out next time with it fully in and ensure it’s tightened. Anyone else have ideas?

I mean I hear a few people use it pushed all the way with zero issues. I don’t want to use it half out and then scrape my hitch due to the wobble while driving.

 

[spokey]

I have a ridgeback which I think is pretty much the same but not quite as fancy ( but cheaper). Mine seats OK and yes I think the pin is mandatory. I think the 2" adapter (silver part) does stick out a little but not much on the ridgeback.

But I found it hard to get the rack in and out. That wedge piece was always flopping around and interfering with inserting the tongue. Maybe the fullback is better in this regard. I ended up getting a Kuat and couldn't be happier. The yakima will heading out to Denver back to the subie I gave to my daughter when I got the MY.

 

[Billmister]

For the full tilt, I feel like half of the 2" adapter (silver part) sticks out. Which looks like either I put it on wrong or doesn't look like it belongs like that. IDK, I mean this is the same one that Tesla makes with their logo and for the price of $500, its not something that I can just return and get a refund. But also, it does its job very well. I fit 3 bikes on it with no issues with plenty of space for the 4th bike (my little ones bike goes in the trunk as it's too small to fit in the bike rack.)

 

[Billmister]

Got the answer I was looking for! The pin on our bike rack is more of a safety measurement. Here is the response from item expert:

The automatic (AutoPin) hitch pin on the Yakima FullSwing bike rack # Y02465 is basically a fail safe device. What really holds the bike rack in the hitch receiver is the anti-rattle wedge near the end of the shank. When it is tightened properly the rack cannot be removed from the hitch.

etrailer

 

[spokey]

I have read that the pins are required legally. But most, maybe all those were referencing towing not bike racks. But it does beg the question of why they provide hitch pins if you don't need them?

 

[Billmister]

The one on the FullTilt is not a traditional 2-4” pin that slides in and keeps something your pulling from separating.

The FullTilt uses the anti rattle to secure it. In worst case scenario if it were to slide off, the secure pin holds it in place.