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Yearly brake service
- Thread starter Aznvietboy725
- Start date
You can see my post higher up. Brakes will continue to work without lubrication but less efficiently, as ICE cars. However, it is once you try to clean or replace them that you'll have trouble if you waited too late. Those pins holding the pads in the front will be a PITA to remove. You might bend them and need replacements.
I had MYLR brake service this past summer. I live in the high salt usage area. At that time there were 30k over 2 years. The mobile service tech removed the brake pads, scrubbed the rust off the calipers slides, lubed the pin and the tech mentioned that this was not bad and told me to just do this service every 2 years. About 40 mins total
For reference, I had to replace the rotors and pads on my Honda HRV after 40k miles because the pads were frozen (rust) to the calipers, had strange wear pattern on the rotors.
For reference, I had to replace the rotors and pads on my Honda HRV after 40k miles because the pads were frozen (rust) to the calipers, had strange wear pattern on the rotors.
Midnightsun
Active Member
This should be helpful to most who are not familiar with brakes and required service required on ALL cars. Do you absolutely need to do this every year? No but chances are your brakes will not function as well as intended especially if you live in an area with winter and salted roads. As time goes by, brake function will deteriorate if nothing is done. By the way, the LRY has 4 piston calipers in front so only the pins to lube and the rear has a single piston where the sliders should to be lubed. Caliper Maintenance | MotorWeek
FWIW - I asked the service tech who had just replaced both of my front wheel bearings on my 2020 MY LR at the SC in Montreal what he recommended for brake service/cleaning and he indicated it wasn’t necessary at all. The rear ones - that likely see more crud kicked up from the front tires- are pretty easy to clean- I do those once a year when I rotate tires anyhow. The front are harder and it isn’t clear to me what there is to get stuck on those.
The two pins on both sides, that keep the pads in, since the fronts (at least on mine) are the slide-in pad type where you don't need to remove a part to remove the pads. These pins seem to very easily jam in there. They require hard hammering to get out. I've seen a few people bend the pins and need to replace them. I had to hammer mine so hard I was afraid to slip and break something else. This is true every year so I just can't imagine leaving them there for longer.
not sure about yours or others, but mine has two bolts instead of pins, so no hammering is needed. (22 MYP).
Yes you should do this.
For Performance trims enter Track Mode and turn down regen. For all trims enter Service mode and use the brake servicing option to disable regen.
You want to do this early and regularly to maintain a good, clean, flat interface between the pads and rotors. Debris may get embedded in the pad and cause grooving on the rotor. If pins arent smooth with floating calipers, the pistons may not apply pressure to both faces of rotor equally.
I neglected this maintenance with my car and the outside face of the rotor was quite grooved, and inside face of the rotor was not getting much friction leaving it dull. Car failed my jurisdiction (very strict) inspection.
As a longtime fsdb user, I have gotten plenty of brake wear, slamming on the brakes to prevent the car from running a particular stop sign. Fsdb is finally stopping at this sign but there seem to be other opportunities. I have never given up using brakes (habit). When the car is cold, there is no regen so there are other opportunities.
Sorry you had issues with your brakes, holmgang. I recently passed an inspection so hope mine were looking good.
Sorry you had issues with your brakes, holmgang. I recently passed an inspection so hope mine were looking good.
I scraped and sanded off the surface rust from inner and outermost radius of the rotors, and needed to run many many cycles of Brake Burnishing to get the surface nice and smooth.
The inside of the rears still arent shiny enough to be *visually* passable. The rears just dont get enough loads from the speeds I can get around here (80-90kmh). Think I might find a nice open parking lot and do some hard braking while driving reverse to force the rear calipers to do some work
.When my brakes start squealing while in reverse, first drive of the day, I do the following.
Overnight charge to 100%.
Early morning, drive to a long downhill (there's one adjacent to my community) that has zero traffic.
Accelerate to 55-60, then brake heavily almost until full stop.
Loop around, and repeat 5-6 times.
This has worked for me (now at 54k miles), and it seems much less violent than the Tesla service menu method. Rotors appear slightly stained, but are perfectly smooth.
Overnight charge to 100%.
Early morning, drive to a long downhill (there's one adjacent to my community) that has zero traffic.
Accelerate to 55-60, then brake heavily almost until full stop.
Loop around, and repeat 5-6 times.
This has worked for me (now at 54k miles), and it seems much less violent than the Tesla service menu method. Rotors appear slightly stained, but are perfectly smooth.
