This just happened to me yesterday on a Model Y (LR) purchased in late July now ~1,400 miles odometer. Fortunately we were not yet on the freeway (had this happened 10 minutes later, we would have been). After the DI_a137 Unable to Drive PULL OVER SAFELY, error, I got a a DIR_a126 Power Reduced, then a DI_a063. Since there was no real shoulder on the road when this happened, we drove about 1000 feet to get to a driveway. As soon as we turned onto it, the car vibrated/shook then shutoff. I called the 87.79.TESLA service and they had us do a power cycle where we all exited the car, closed the doors, reentered the driver seat then stepped on the brake. The car restarted and we were able to get home (about 45 minute away) without incident. The service agent on the phone advised to schedule a service appointment via app (which I will complete). Other factors, we just completed a Supercharging session and it was rather hot - 111F outside. Aircon was set at 73 and mid fan level (about 6). Could the car have temporarily overheated causing the power failure?
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Yikes! Error Message: Unable to Drive/Pull Over Safely
- Thread starter mojoe
- Start date
Yes I get it, but sorry, but my previous cars never shut down unexpectedly like my Y did yesterday, especially in the second month of ownership. This shouldn't happen period to any car.
Not really. It's more likely to fail day 1 than any given day in next year (or 2 or 3...). Failures follow a "bathtub curve". That is, there are many, many failures nearly immediately, then fewer failures for a long time until whatever age causes wear-based failures.
TheRFMan
Member
Interestingly enough, that statement was removed from the website around the July 2020 timeframe.
M109Rider
Active Member
Lol. I still wonder why someone who is so bitter and grumpy towards Tesla hangs around here. I guess you just look for these types of posts to feed from.
Given the number of cars sold, and how posts there are about failures, you may want them to be common, but they aren’t.
Also, Tesla is not the demon you portray them to be.
For your own happiness, why not buy a different car and separate yourself from this terrible environment that torments you so much. ?
M109Rider
Active Member
Different technology. (Motors and software) = Different types of failures.
Just because you don’t want cars to shut down unexpectedly, doesn’t mean they won’t.
In the next 10 years, all cars will be software and motor driven. You will not see ANY of the types of failures gas cars give us today.
You will see more shut downs instead.
Change is inevitable. You have to change with it, or refuse to adopt.
Lol. I still wonder why someone who is so bitter and grumpy towards Tesla hangs around here. I guess you just look for these types of posts to feed from.
Given the number of cars sold, and how posts there are about failures, you may want them to be common, but they aren’t.
Also, Tesla is not the demon you portray them to be.
For your own happiness, why not buy a different car and separate yourself from this terrible environment that torments you so much. ?
If all people did was grovel over how great Tesla was on this forum, it would be useless. I want a forum where people are objective and honest about Tesla's strengths and weaknesses and not filled exclusively with fanboi-ness.
From everything I've observed and experienced, Tesla is (understandably) secretive about failed components. I would've loved to get an explanation for why my drive unit failed on Day 1, but that's just not Tesla's style. And they do clearly play fast and loose with the facts in their marketing. Pretending otherwise is just sticking your head in the sand.
The whole "love it or leave it" mantra is so tired it's putting me to sleep.
My guess would be an inverter-related failure. Unfortunately, because the entire unit was replaced, it's impossible to tell what component actually failed as they generally list them on the repair receipt. Only way to get an idea of the failure pattern is to check through forums, available TSBs etc.
With Tesla's stock as hot as it is today, investors are antsy and damage control is in high gear, if you get where I'm coming from.
This thankfully hasn’t happened to me (yet), but I want to be ready in case it ever does. Based on your post, it sounds like you might get a few minutes (seconds?) of reaction time after DI_a137 to get to a safe spot? And did you experience any warning symptoms like @mojoe reported, with some kind of “buckling hard braking“ behavior during acceleration? The idea that your car could suddenly lose power in the middle of a 6 lane freeway is truly frightening. I’m hoping there might be some warning sign that people have experienced in common?
This just happened to my September 2018 Model 3 LR RWD and required the Inverter to be replaced. It bucked twice, like a ICE car running out of gas, just as it was stopping a few cars back from a stop light. There it sat only able to go into neutral and park, until a police officer called a wrecker, before Tesla could get there.
I highly recommend everyone practice putting their car into Tow Mode before they need it.
When the Tow truck arrived, I struggled to get the car into Tow Mode. First couple of tries caused the car to reboot! Once that stopped, I couldn't see the difference between Tow Mode being ready to be enabled and it being enabled. It is a subtle change to the button and I was being rushed by the Tow truck driver. He had pulled out of his truck the "solution", a full bottle of dish soap he planned lube up then tires with, to drag the car on to the flat bed.
Tow mode is also Push Mode. I learned this before tow truck arrived. A good Samaritan attempted to push my car while it was in neutral. Just as it rolled the parking brake would automatically engage.
I highly recommend everyone practice putting their car into Tow Mode before they need it.
When the Tow truck arrived, I struggled to get the car into Tow Mode. First couple of tries caused the car to reboot! Once that stopped, I couldn't see the difference between Tow Mode being ready to be enabled and it being enabled. It is a subtle change to the button and I was being rushed by the Tow truck driver. He had pulled out of his truck the "solution", a full bottle of dish soap he planned lube up then tires with, to drag the car on to the flat bed.
Tow mode is also Push Mode. I learned this before tow truck arrived. A good Samaritan attempted to push my car while it was in neutral. Just as it rolled the parking brake would automatically engage.
Today was my delivery day.
after 10 miles driving, while I was driving, the car started alarming and popping up a message that states "unable to drive" pull over safely and stopped operation. DI_a137 error. The car was towed and now in service center. I'm very surprised in many ways and already started to regret to have purchased this piece of *sugar*.
same experience here anyone?
after 10 miles driving, while I was driving, the car started alarming and popping up a message that states "unable to drive" pull over safely and stopped operation. DI_a137 error. The car was towed and now in service center. I'm very surprised in many ways and already started to regret to have purchased this piece of *sugar*.
same experience here anyone?
chobra
Member
Unfortunately it seems like others had the same issue, hope it gets fixed ASAP
Tam
Well-Known Member
Any brand-new car in the market can malfunction quickly after leaving the parking lot.
However, the article below doesn't help to boost confidence in Tesla's quality:
Tesla Lacks Major Automotive Quality Certifications in the IATF 16949 and ISO 9001
Most of the largest Western car companies follow this technical specification to establish a respectful quality management system
www.autoevolution.com
I picked up a new 2023 RWD model 3 yesterday, 3/21/2023. Drove without problem 65 miles to supercharger nearest my house. Topped off charge to 90% before intended handoff to wife. Disconnected charger. Got in, tapped brake, and got audible alarm with the "DI_a137 unable to drive". Roadside assist call resulted in reboots with no help followed by a tow. I left it in the supercharger stall. Its now the day after and I'm waiting to hear results from service center. My first "couldn't make it home" car buy in over 50 years of buying.
Picked up car from repair on 3/24/2023. Reported that inverter module that plugs into drive had failed and was replaced. Now seems to be running well.
So I have a 2023 LR dual motor and it looks like my rear motor failed at just 8,100 miles yesterday. Still waiting to hear from the service center ('m not even sure they have diagnosed the car yet) but I got the error message about rear motor diasbled. I was able to drive to my destination about 2 miles away with just the front motor, but performance was pretty bad. When I came out to check on the car at lunch, it was completely disabled. I doubt I would have driven it the 50 miles home on the highway with just the front motor anyways... but it would have been nice if the Tesla app sent me a notification that the car was completely disabled. It knew something was wrong but waited until I needed it to do anything about it.
NOT a good experience.
I started coding intensely when I was 12. I am in my mid-50's now. I can say with authority that Tesla absolutely sucks at software. I sure hope they don't ga around telling people they are a software company, and not a car company.
Not so common but it does happen, do a search under drive unit, there’s a few post on here about that. I only have 1 drive unit, so far no issues March 2019 3 SR+ and my 2020 Model Y, with 2 drive units. Both at 55k miles still working fine.
