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There isn't much foam. If you cut it down you risk it getting worse. It all comes down to perhaps one inch either way. If your hips are more narrow, you might get away with it. I DEFINITELY WOULD NOT DO THAT. I built a new seat. If you don't want to do that, you can try options as I have. First...

Had Tesla Mobile Service (very good) found a nest under the frunk. The animal had eaten through one of the wiring harnesses.

Yes, I did the power off, no change, still stuck on 68F outside. I did 2 methods. The double press on the wheels and from the screen safety menu. No luck. Tesla Service Center just changed my appointment to mobile and sooner. So they will come to my house. I have them fixing the external...

My outside temperature is stuck and remains on 68F no matter what the real temperature is. I don't know what causes this to be broken. I scheduled Tesla service to fix it. If there's a DIY fix, I'd like to know.

Yes, My rebuild raises my head level. If you are 6'6" you don't have much room to work with. I am tall with a tall upper torso. I'm equivalent to perhaps 6'4" or more in seating position. If I were taller, I'd have to use less padding. But I think I could get it done and fit. As it is I actually...

For back problems such as sciatic nerves (which I also have), I think more than modification of the bottom seat cushion is in order. I did that, I modified the bottom seat cushion very much with a completely different foam plus foam blocks. Then I removed and replaced the lumbar air pump bags...

My outside temperature is stuck and remains on 68F no matter what the real temperature is. I don't know what causes this to be broken. I scheduled Tesla service to fix it. If there's a DIY fix, I'd like to know.

That's awful news. I haven't seen a 2023 seat used yet. I test drove some new Tesla's, I thought were 2023, I found every model the seats to bee too narrow for me. I didn't expect them to make them even smaller than 2022 though...

The language used by the service center is a bit awkward. What is meant by "A-pillar applique"? I wonder how they do the "smoke test"? I'd like to try something similar. So in the end they replaced a seal. Was it the entire window to car seal? I think it's all one single piece and it is tucked...

I built it.

I did a series of changes to help with the window wind noise. It has improved. Not always 100% perfect but mostly down in sound levels. I test with a partner blowing a hair dryer while I sit in the car to find the exact locations of the noise and to check on my progress of fixes. Made sure...

" 4) Adjust the window so it's tighter at top, assuming that's where the problem is determined to be. 5) Adjust the door to shut a mill or two tighter overall." 4) I actually shimmed the rubber down. So I didn't write it correctly. I did that by pulling the rubber down and out and inserted a...

That's interesting. I would think that would be adjustable. I haven't looked into it. I have adjusted the window tightness. There are w two bolts underneath the inner panel of the door. You should be able to adjust the door to have the door and window a bit tighter. And you can "shim" the...

The Model X is similar to the Model 3 /Y but not exactly the same. The metal seat base that does the heavy lifting and moving and such is the same among all the Tesla models since the 2017 refresh of the Model S.. The Model X and S seem to be similar if not the same. I posted a number of...

I also have a Tesla Model 3. Anything shorter than an hour and I never noticed the seat issues. But my first 4 hour drive was very painful, terrible! The Tesla seats being uncomfortable has less to do with a person's height and even weight (although that often goes along with what I'm about...

I had horrific pain driving over one hour. Under one hour was initially no issue at all. I developed pain in my thighs, lower back, legs, upper back, neck. I'm just not the correct build for this car. Or rather the car is not built for many of us. I am not that unusual in build for a...

You are very fortunate if that still works for you. I had tried that and it didn't work for me. I tried many, many other fixes.... The Tesla seats being uncomfortable has less to do with a person's height and even weight (although that often goes along with what I'm about to say) than to do...

From what I know the seat bottom is one assembly. You can order it from Tesla for $800. I bought a used one in good shape on ebay for $200. I got lucky. I bought it to build custom seat. Good ones might sell up to $400 or more. If you have the money buy new. If not. Consider used. Cheaper...

They use the same seats between the Model Y and Model 3. And I believe the 22 and 23 seats are the same. The Model X and S share the same seat. The seat metal frames are the same across all the models S3XY. I test drove the X and S and I would have problems with those seats as well. Mine is the...

That is really interesting. Thanks for sharing. Since the window has a curve, I'll bet if it sets just a bit lower, it would match the car's rubber just a bit differently. I went inside the door panel and adjusted. I also adjusted the door to shut a bit tighter. I'm going to try what you did...

That is interesting that the seat sensor failed. On the driver's side I bet it was connector or wiring failure or intermittent. Your wife is magical! Glad you figured it out.

I posted a lot of videos on my channel on YouTube "George Borrelli" It's not "hard". If you can change oil and filter you can figure this out. I remove the four floor bolts so I can rock the seat and access the connectors and the "clips" After removing the bolts, it's not all that difficult...

I realize this is an old thread. But Google still finds it, so I'll try to help those still searching for answers. I have had pain with my 2022 Model 3 seat. I am a little taller, wider, and heavier that the "norm". All Tesla models, including the S, 3, X, and Y all use the same seat metal...

It's nice to have that much range, at least the EPA range. For others like me, who have Model 3/Y we have much less range...

What's interesting, I've made a number of adjustments. The wind noise in the driver and passenger's windows decreased a lot. But then for some reasons can come back. I see a correlation. If I leave the windows vented, which I often do, it comes back. That indicates to me that there's something...

That might help. On the driver's seat on the Model 3/Y there's a sensor attached to the top off the foam. The wires go through the foam thfough a hole in the foam, underneath the metal frame Z springs and connect underneath the springs to the car wiring. I cut two foam blocks so there's a slot...

There is definitely "something wrong" with the seal/ window in your pictures, IMHO. I looked at my car and there is no way to pull the edge of a seal by finger out like that. It looks like the window is too far forward and I have no idea how that would be possible. Or more likely that...

Do you have a picture of the 8" to 2" change?

I have read someone else say that SC found that the brake switch was failing. So in addition to the seat sensor, the seat buckle sensor, you have a brake sensor. The brake sensor is quite important because I'd think it controls the brake lights as well.

I would first check the integrity of the door seal(s) to the outside. I will attach pictures of the door seals of my Model 3 and the window seal at the top. Since it appears to me that you are getting air into the door, inside the door then through the bottom seal to the window, and it's cold...

I haven't pulled the upper apart but I think they are the same basic design as the lower. The way the faux leather attaches to the foam is what we are discussing. They use a combination of velcro and snaps. I've taken many seats apart. Sometimes the snaps pull out of the foam. Sometimes the...

I've put one car seat in the second row many times. It can be challenging. What really helped is to first find the metal hook location. It is kind of hidden. You have to separate the top from bottom with your hand and using a flashlight, locate all of the plugs. I don't know if the middle has...

You can buy an entire seat upper and headrest from Ebay. It can be a DIY project but you'd need to be careful and have some basic skills. You really can't get matching materials to "fix" that level of damage. You need a new faux leather complete, new foam complete, new back plastic complete...

The front seat headrests are very easily removed. The rear is just slightly different. I wouldn't risk the damage of pressure from the headrest into the back of the front seat. I would move the front seat up a bit. What you risk isn't a big deal though. The back of the front seat is a large...

I've taken many Tesla seats apart and rebuilt them. From the pictures, The seat looks quite good at this point but you might want to take some preventative actions. In the first picture, it appears the wavy wrinkles going into the curved seam in the first picture is from the pull down...

You remind me that I need to make a video about all things related to wind noise. I wanted to wait until I fully resolved and fully understood everything possible. I have a YouTube channel under my name, George Borrelli. I haven't taken pictures or posted yet. Meanwhile I have posted other...

Make sure the setting is turned on in th eS3XY app on your phone, for wifi for scanmytesla

That's true. The software in the aftermarket S3XY buttons system is always catching up to impactful software changes to the car by Tesla. Normally there's no impact, periodically there is. I like the unit though, especially to see battery details. I'd rather Tesla provide the data but they don't.

In addition to all the changes I've already mentioned and changes others have posted, I also found a wrinkle or fold in the rubber seal. Closely examine the rubber seal that goes all the way around the roof line and B pillar, which the window sets against to make the seal. I actually had to...

Yes, there are many of us out there. I completely rebuilt the seat bottoms and they work for me now. I'm 6'1" 250. With a wide bone structure. If you did get a Tesla, and they all have the problem, I can help.

Yes, the company informed me that they use bluetooth but for non company apps they provide a switchable wifi. It can be turned off in the phone app.

I just tapped that area of the door latch on my 22 M3 and hear no rattles. It's a little bit more hollow sound but it should because of the opening. If you have a genuine rattle just from tapping, there's definitely something loose. Take the inner door panel off and look for it.

I really struggle to see what it is being depicted in the two photos. They are too close up for me to get my bearings. This is what I know about the front seat bottoms. From the top down (not looking from the bottom up): The driver's side doesn't have a rather large black flat plastic part...

I have several YouTube videos of seat work. Some of the earlier changes, some of the later changes. And some videos of how to remove the seat bottom. My YouTube Channel is George Borrelli Let me know if you need any more help.

I would think if a person wanted such a degree of seat replacement that you could rebuild the floor mount in some way to lower it. I have a spare stock OEM floor mount in my shop. I'm certain I could lower it without all the electrical movement. Keeping the movement would be difficult to lower...

I got the EKR seat covers on Amazon. They don't allow the center arm rest to go down. I find them too "sticky" when getting in and out of the seat.

Adjustment of the doors is relatively "easy" to do. A service call should have considered moving the latch so the door isn't quite so tight when shut. Alternatively, a handy DIY person could do this adjustment. I have.

Are you wanting more hugging in the bottom or the upper seat or both?

These are hard to come by. I have seen them at times on Ebay, but not cheap for the white. Are you replacing all seats? Bottom and top, front and back?