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I can see that. Here is some more info. This is a pic of both of the T2's I removed. The left one is the left side rear, the right one the right. I brought the insides together for comparison. There is very little "OEM" rubber to begin with (on the left). I verified this with the new set...

I love the 21's. I don't think there's a reason the 21's should wear differently. The overall wheel diameter is the same size is it not? If it's different, then yes, that would make a difference.

Update. My barely used right rear "T2"'s leaked and the shop found the tread separating. The left one was just fine. Back on went my new non-T2 ones. I am beginning to wonder if this is a tire defect. My shop and I both inspected the slightly used T2's before install and they looked good...

Exactly. It's the alignment. THAT BEING SAID, I personally do not know how these OEM supply deals are made. Maybe Michelin reviewed and approved the Model S rear suspension geometry and agreed to supply their tire with their warranty. So as to whose fault it is, not sure. Micheline DID...

Yep. That's what happened to mine. Except mine started leaking at 8,700 miles. My wear was caught a bit sooner.

That's exactly what I did. I like Low. (Yes, it's all about the looks, lol)

Classic toe alignment problem. Mine was in spec but toed out. I got replacements and adjusted the toe for slight in. I am tracking wear every thousand miles.

Sorry, I meant No Toe

Update: We found the rear toe settings to be within spec, but they were toed out. We brought them in to spec but with toe in. We will see what happens.

Are you still interested?

You're killing me smalls.

DM'd

Mine are gone after about 7,000 miles. Same problem. Although I do not have proof yet, the issue is NOT rubbing. This is a classic "too-much toe-in" alignment setting wear pattern. Too much toe-in on the rear tires. The treadwear pattern (inner edge only) is a simple diagnosis and is as old...

Well, that's the point. Factory spec apparently did this. Tesla realigned the car just over a month ago. There's quite a bit of history on this on the web. I took Michelin up on their generous offer. Once I get the new tires, I will have my local shop work with me to back off the rear toe...

Yeah, but it's Tesla's fault, not Michelin's.

I feel Tesla should cover this since it is so recent. They said they don't cover tires. Michelin said they would cover 2/3 of the cost of replacement tires. Any suggestions on how best to handle this?

yes. It literally pops out and then back in. Might be a bolt or two ( I can't recall) but very easy regardless.

It was super easy. I used this:

Yes they will communicate with you- quite extensively to make sure every detail is clearly specified before they make it. Make sure you also communicate very clearly (but as simply as possible) and make sure that you are satisfied that they clearly understand what you want in no uncertain terms...

This is them: New Real carbon fiber flat sport steering wheel for Tesla S/X yoke Disc style | eBay

I've had it in for a week now and I'm not going back. Much easier to drive. Materials are nice. Real CF, matches interior trim perfectly, and the perforated leather feels nice within the grips. Red stitching matches the car color.

I have a wheel coming from a Chinese manufacturer. Swaps in for the yoke. Looks to be good quality. Was able to customize it to match the car. Matte carbon fiber, red stitching (my car is red). Hopefully will be nice. Heating is included supposedly.

Yes, it has stayed away. Make sure to do both seats.

Took the car in for damaged suspension linkage replacement and an alignment. Had an appointment. Price: Estimate number was not bad and they stuck to their number. Length: Ok. The appointment had me waiting 6 days, then it took them two weeks to do a 2 hour job. In their defense, they were...

My new Tesla Plaid is a verified Tesla. It came with a small dent UNDER the paint, not the best fitting body panels, etc. I am happy with all that. From past other brand dealership experiences, I am wary of sloppy work and crooked practices. There is one thing I should have fixed though...

Following up. It was the rear left seat latch. I wrapped the forward bar of the seat latch bar a 2-3 times with electrical tape and solved.

I'm just talking about buying a shop manual and the lack of my enthusiasm to want to afford such a "rented" luxury.

Put your rear seats down and see if it stops. I got lucky and mine did so I've really isolated it. I am referring to all speeds, including barely moving, a sort of creaking from the back right. It did not require road harshness, jounce, body stress, etc.

Refresh. Got it March 2022 new.

I just want to know how to pop the rear seat back plastic cover off because they obviously forgot some kind of rattle damping. I don't want to have to schedule a visit and drop the car off, etc, etc, etc, for something trivial like that.

This is their idea of FIY?

Plastic, apparently snap-on covers on the back of the split fold rear seat. I have one that rattles and I want to pop it off and goop it up. Very tempted to pop it off but just in case there is some sort of clever attaching system, I don't want to bust it.

After having my car over a month now and having the vibration, I have to add that it is very slight and very specific. I feel more vibration when my air conditions goes to max or I put my car into drag mode and the heating system kicks in.

Another report, same as before. Perhaps a clue: Everything exactly the same (time, temperature, speed, incline, throttle) except the surfaces. 36mph slight vibration clearly less on harder, smoother concrete surface. FWIW, I highly doubt it is a rotational source. More likely a chassis...

This morning heading down slight hill, hit about 35mph-38mph and could hear and feel it (very slight). I then made a wide, half turn and continued down the gentle hill and hit 35-38 mph and nothing. The only difference was the two surfaces. The second was hard, smooth "white" concrete. The...

Jeez, Tesla really dropped the ball on this one. Installed mine yesterday. Same issues. I was able to get to the config screen only one time on 192.168.92.1, apparently randomly as I tried repeatedly several times. I was just barely able to set it for 60A breaker and it charges just fine...

I concur that very slight acceleration. Perhaps this is actually completely floating the drivetrain? (Pedal off would be slight decel?) And with the various tires being changed out, that eliminates that!

Curious indeed!

Just FYI, I have about 200 miles on my Plaid and almost from day one I have detected (barely), the vibration around 35-38 mph. I can only feel it on very smooth asphalt. It is barely detectable but the car is so quiet and smooth, when combined with the smooth road, any slight things can be...

I agree on the FOB battery pull tags. Called Support and they didn't know what to do. I discovered you tear off the perforated end and pull the other end through. But it is very hard to pull and feels wrong. and where is that 12V power receptacle?

Well all, I got my Plaid this morning. The car is truly amazing, and gorgeous (Red with Arachnids). It's now 8:30PM and the self driving finally calibrated and I'm fully enabled. It really does make any other car feel like yesterday's tech. Kinda like a 70's car in the early 80's. Time to...

Ok, that sounds easy. I have that ability?

I just realized maybe I can set that on the car? Sorry, I've never owned a Tesla. It's coming Saturday.

I like the maximum rate of this but I may need to charge on a generator once in a while and would want to ramp the rate down to something more manageable like 20A if I'm on the generator. I read that the WC is setup initially with the Commissioning Wizard but I haven't found any examples...

Ah, got it, thanks. So the onboard charger's maximum charge rate is 11.5 kW. Not limited by anything else.

You can do 50A. But given manufacturing tolerances, its better to just go 60A and not worry about edge tripping.

noooo, again.

Congrats! Looks nice. My DD is this Saturday.

I found here, that the internal AC charger on the Plaid is rated at 16.5KW. Backing that out to a typical 220V home circuit (like an electric range or dryer), 16,500W / 220V = 75 Amps. So if I bought the 14-50 adapter for the Mobile Connector, and supply it with a 50A breaker, will I charge at...