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I was able to get one from Tesla here for 530$ cad. Big thanks to Krys@mississauga service centre! Problem solved

Done!

Oh that’s great wk075, how can I contact you to arrange ?

Also I am hoping to find someone that can fedex rather fast to Germany, it will get delivered to ukraine/Poland border from there

Anything I was able to find was either 1200$+ or no longer available. I am hoping for a reasonable price :(

Hi All, I know this is a wrong place to post this, but this is rather urgent and I hope the community can help. I urgently need to get USA Tesla chademo adapter for my family member in Ukraine. As you might know the situation in Ukraine is catastrophic, there were a lot of USA spec teslas that...

Hi, I urgently need to get USA Tesla chademo adapter for my family member in Ukraine. As you might know the situation in Ukraine is catastrophic, there were a lot of USA spec teslas that left Ukraine and bought out all available chademo adapters to be able to charge in Poland/other neighbouring...

I wanted to give the same advice:) check your ground studs ! One is on the passenger side beside the ac piping under the hood, another one is under airbag controller under the mcu inside. I would say 90% is the under the hood one that gives trouble. When checking it, make sure you actually...

Congrats! You have fixed your Tesla without access to Toolbox:) good we now know a fully working procedure , too bad it has to be timed with software updates to work

You definitely need to power cycle the car with fireman loop/battery disconnect after this type of repair, but I would assume he had done it while changing the battery heater? Installing new software has updated the firmware on the battery heater for sure, otherwise it would not have worked. I...

I would agree. I drove 2014 85 with air suspension and 21 rims for some time, now have 2015 90d with coils 19 rims. It’s subjective I guess, but air suspension is way too floaty and feels like garbage when you do some spirited driving. The coil one with Michelin as3 rubber feels like a high...

Yes, the trick is to have new software downloaded and ready, then swap your part, then run new software install. I can confirm this, software install triggers redeploy. Otherwise you would need a special cable to connect to your car and run a command to initiate redeploy. Cable is 50$ I think...

I would think replacing battery heater would require software redeploy for it to work, correct me if I am wrong? ( you can even try to and ask local SC to do remote software redeploy on your car, I heard they do it sometimes) btw, I had to replace my radiator and had to add about a gallon of...

I also had the axle greased and the clicking noise went away

Yes, it’s microswitch for sure. Most likely the wire broke off the left microswitch. I had exact same symptoms.

Actually FYI, there are complete rebuild kits available, like this one : Model S Door Handle Rebuild Kit IMO way too much money, as it’s just about 12$ in parts. But the videos are definitely helpful

good luck. Pay attention of the condition of the wiring that goes to the switches. Mine was corroded in some places and the wire just broke. Maybe a good idea to replace some runs with the new wire as well! Also, when you will be resoldering the switches, you will have to remove the rubber cap...

This is the one: ASQ10410 Panasonic Electric Works | Switches | DigiKey I just had the same problem 2 weeks ago, got 10 of this to fix future doors ( and from the looks of it, it will happen sooner or later) . You need 2 switches per door. There are bunch of YouTube videos on how to change...

I heard that too, thus not installing it. I guess I am stuck with 36.11 forever:(

So just got back from Tesla SC, apparently the micro switch harness went up in price, it’s 180$ cad here in Canada, unbelievable:((( Anyone can suggest alternatives?

Mine is 2015 90D. Anyone can advice what is broken and what needs to be changed. Maybe a microswitch? The handle does make weird noises, you can hear it from the video.

Hi All, My drivers door handle stopped working yesterday. It got stuck in an open position. After pulling fuses f40,41 in an attempt to reset it, now it just started cycling, pls see video below. Any advice what hardware do I need to buy from Tesla to fix this? Do I need the paddle gear...

Ok man, here is the info you need, I went through this process about a year ago and it was an outright agony to figure it out. you need to look for a body shop that has Spanesi frame machine. This is one of a selected few machines that is certified for Tesla frame measurements. No one will...

I think so yes. Didn’t look into it as I don’t have 3.

They also have some ridiculously good body kits as well:) I am not affiliated with them, just really like their products and hoping one day I can afford something like that:)

Hey guys, just wanted to update you regarding that TSK Ukrainian bumper I talked about before - apparently they are being sold in LA now. I don’t know the price yet, but saw a posting on Facebook

Slacker tab has been renamed to Streaming as of some time ago! Regarding tunein - I heard there is actually a way to get free premium account from Tesla, but that involves doing something to simulate the car being in Europe. Apparently in EU they can’t use slacker, so they give out premium...

I actually need the EU version, last time I checked in June, it was a Restricted part. Now I don’t see it in the list of part even. by the way, I have 1 3G and 1 lte North American SIM cards for sale left from eu conversions. Not sure if it will work in other teslas, but I have a strong...

Yeah, I’ve seen it changed back from Restricted, just wanted to confirm if anyone was successful to buy it

Did Tesla start selling modems over the counter or is it still Restricted?

Argento 312 exactly matches sonic carbon by the way. My original center caps from sonic carbon turbines marched 100%

Just an update, i powder coated the rims using Argento 312, and it turned out too light, I am super disappointed :( Hope it will help someone not to make the same mistake :(

Did you accept 26k already? I was thinking to but it out privately

Hi, what year is your car and model? How many airbags blown? I might be interested in Buying and restoring it if you are interested.

Indeed it looks very close, but I see sonic carbon as slightly lighter. But even if it’s the same, anyone knows what aftermarket powder coat paint would match Tesla sonic carbon?

Found this photo of someone selling their powder coated rims on the internet. I want to do the same, but need to figure out what color paint is this? My powder coating guy is offering my Drylac Argento paint, but I am not sure if it’s an exact match. What do you guys think, what color is it...

Thanks for feedback. It is my first Tesla:) and I got it used some time ago, so I didn’t know how the previous owner used it until I was able to get into the diagnostic screens. Now I know it was not supercharged a lot, but battery degradation is on higher end ( I read on the forums here that...

Guys, it’s a 4 letter code, it’s unique to each car and changes frequently. The only way you can get it is when you do eMMC repair for your car, the repair person can provide it for you, or you have to have friends at SC. I did my eMMC repair recently, so this is how I got it, but the code did...

So if we use average kilowatts per 100 miles from the sticker: Old model X : 2.95 x 39kw/100miles = 115 kw pack New model X : 3.71x 32kw/100miles = 118 kw pack I am sure the old pack was not 115kw:) so I guess there is some kind of flaw in the assumption, but I think it’s safe to say the new...

Unfortunately that code is different for each car, and changes frequently, you can try your luck if you have friends at your SC

You get into it by holding Tesla logo on the mcu for 10 seconds and typing in a special 4 digit code. Don’t ask me how I got the code ;)

I just used new reported pack capacity of 76.5kw and divided it 86kw (initial pack capacity for 90 battery. 76.5/86*100=88.9 so the pack 88.9% of initial capacity. 100 - 88.9 = 11.1% degradation

Hi All, 2015 90D 88k miles here Recently I was able to get into the battery diagnostics menu and took some snapshots at 40% soc and 100% soc (pls see attached). Just wanted to see what is your opinion regarding degradation and voltages. I noticed BMB 6 is considerably higher voltage and BMB...

Hm, sounds maybe like a brake shim is moving and making clicking noise while engaging/disengaging brakes?

Ok, just an update, the issue was fixed. For anyone that might stumble upon something like this in the future- the root cause was that some modules after replacement can not be tied to the car with simple redeploy. What needed to be done was to use Toolbox and “learn the vin of new part” and...

Hi All, I just did factory redeploy one more time and everything seemed to be fine according to the log (attached). However I noticed from the log that "epas:0,esp:0" hardware IDs are 0. Does that mean the system does not see the modules? Here is part of the log: But in another place I see...

Ok, just replaced acceleration/yaw sensor from another car( 100% working) - no positive changes, all errors stayed the same

Yes I have, didnt find any information pertaining to those errors:(

No not yet. I am not sure that this sensor error is a root cause or a byproduct of something else being wrong. Any idea what direction should I dig first?

Bump