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10-30 Adapter Sold Out

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I’ve never seen a separate ground conductor within residential BX cable. The metal sheath is used as ground and should be of ample size to handle it.

BX cable is technically called AC. Modern AC has a small bonding wire that in combination with the armor constitutes the ground. MC cable (similar) has a dedicated full sized ground.

It sounds like the older AC cable (BX) may not have that additional ground bonding wire and so I wonder if that means that the sheath by itself is insufficient as a ground.

More data here:

A little BS on BX cables. Armored or Metal Clad Cables used in exterior installations.Wenatchee and Chelan Real Estate Inspection Services. | NCW Home Inspections, LLC
 
You were right - the sheath on the BX going to our dryer outlet is grounded. It also grounds the case of the disconnect switch. That'll make changing the outlet out for a 14-30 easy!

So I am not an expert in this, but I don’t think this meets code. The metal sheath in BX was not originally designed for grounding. While it may be attached to ground, it may not provide enough current ampacity to actually blow the breaker in a fault (that is a bad failure mode). The UMC would detect the working ground but not know of its ampacity.

Grounding and BX Cables.

All the fittings and such where it enters the electrical box and such would also need to be rated to carry ground current.

(I would research this some more- there may be some code compliant way to do this- I am just calling it out as a concern)
 
Old BX cabling doesn't meet the current NEC requirements for grounding because it doesn't have the thin aluminum bonding wire in it that modern AC cable has. The reality is that most electricians use the jacket on old BX as a ground since it does provide a ground path. Your call since it's your house.

I'd rather have a 14-30 outlet with a BX-jacket ground, than a 10-30 outlet with no ground.
 
I'd rather have a 14-30 outlet with a BX-jacket ground, than a 10-30 outlet with no ground.

Yeah, I am torn on this one. I believe when using a 10-30 receptacle for a dryer, then the chassis is bonded to neutral on the dryer right? So if a hot wire shorts to the chassis current will flow over the neutral and blow the breaker. The downside is that if something comes disconnected on the neutral wire and the dryer has 120v loads in it (or a neutral between a subpanel and the main panel comes loose) then you can get voltage on the chassis of the dryer.

If you replace that 10-30 with a 14-30 and tie the ground pin to the BX sheath, then if a hot wire comes in contact with the chassis you are running current over the BX armor. If the BX armor has too much resistance back to the bonding point in the main service panel then it may not blow the breaker and instead just heat up and melt the BX armor or some connection point will heat up. This could start a fire.

I don't know. There are arguments on both sides. I don't know which I would prefer (frankly I would prefer just all new modern romex probably... lol...
 
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Got mine today.

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I had this installed in the garage of my new home in June 2013 and have been using with a Clipper Creek LCS 25 with a 10-30 male plug since then. Can I have this receptacle easily changed from 10-30 to 14-30 or something else? Suggestions that don’t require a new circuit? Waiting on a Model 3 MR that I ordered last week.
 
View attachment 346749 I had this installed in the garage of my new home in June 2013 and have been using with a Clipper Creek LCS 25 with a 10-30 male plug since then. Can I have this receptacle easily changed from 10-30 to 14-30 or something else? Suggestions that don’t require a new circuit? Waiting on a Model 3 MR that I ordered last week.

You can buy a 10-30 Adapter from the Tesla Shop and use it with Mobile Connector that comes with the car.
 
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View attachment 346749 I had this installed in the garage of my new home in June 2013 and have been using with a Clipper Creek LCS 25 with a 10-30 male plug since then. Can I have this receptacle easily changed from 10-30 to 14-30 or something else? Suggestions that don’t require a new circuit? Waiting on a Model 3 MR that I ordered last week.

That is surprising that someone was willing to install a 10-30 brand new in 2013. I think that by 2013 it should not have been allowed for new installs. The issue is that the 10-30 has "hot1, hot2, neutral". It has no ground. You are only allowed to buy replacement receptacles these days for maintenance replacement, not intended for new installs.

Now the good news: There is a very good chance that whoever ran that wire ran romex or something that has hot, hot, neutral, AND ground. Do you know what kind of wire was run? Was it romex (NM cable) or was it in conduit of some kind? Odds are there is a ground wire lurking behind that receptacle that is just not hooked up to anything. You likely can very easily swap it with a 14-30 receptacle that has hot, hot, neutral AND ground.

But yes, you can also just get the 10-30 adapter from Tesla as well instead of the 14-30. Since the Tesla does not use the neutral, it can use that wire as a ground instead. Assuming it goes directly back to your main breaker panel (service entrance panel) then the wire is a functional equivalent of a ground anyway.

If it was just a simple as swapping the receptacle, I personally would swap it anyway since all 10-30 receptacles need to die, but the 10-30 receptacle would work with the right Tesla adapter.