Wednesday 9am...
I began noticing two things:
The VIN disappeared from the car when pressing the Tesla symbol. No states: No VIN present...
And it keeps forgetting my media settings over night.
I wonder if those are the symptoms service picked up.
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Wednesday 9am...
I began noticing two things:
The VIN disappeared from the car when pressing the Tesla symbol. No states: No VIN present...
And it keeps forgetting my media settings over night.
I wonder if those are the symptoms service picked up.
Suzieq
Member
I have seen several references to measuring 12v system voltage. Can someone explain how this is done? I assume this is not one of the parameters accessible from the touchscreen, correct?
Al Sherman
It's about THIS car.
Correct. Some folks on the forum use sophisticated equipment. Us troglodytes are using this Equus 3721 Battery and Charging System Monitor : Amazon.com : Automotive
Exactly the one I got from Amazon. Nice because it has red/yellow/green "guide" lights to let you know if it is within acceptable range. The range is different depending on if the vehicle is on and sitting or on and charging.
BTW, my standing reading this morning was 13.54, so it has reversed the very small voltage drops I had been seeing. And I didn't charge the 60kWh battery overnight at all.
Possibly they are referring to the issue with some(?) BLINK stations with poorly-crimped J1772 connectors which overheat during charging and so melt the connector on the car (ie. fault is on the BLINK side but it still manages to damage the car). Here is one reference (picked at random): http://www.plugincars.com/honda-fit-ev-overheats-blink-charger-126246.html
That problem probably wouldn't damage the Model S (it would damage the J1772 adapter instead), but in any event leads to blatent mechanical damage rather than the sort of subtle effects on the electronics that are being suggested here.
I called Ownership about a different issue and learned from an engineer who was conferenced in that 1) my seven-months-in-service 12V battery is healthy and 2) Tesla is testing new 12V battery solutions. I forgot to ask whether it would be retrofittable when released.
I call major BS on this one. All an EVSE does is throw a big switch that connects the charging cable to AC power.
While I would agree, I do know that certain EVSEs have had issues with other EVs. E.g. GE Wattstation & the LEAF. Now the issue was entirely Nissan's, not GE's. So, its possible for an EVSE to trigger an issue. But in that case, I would think the issue would tend to be with the car, not the other way around.
In other words, Damage? Yes. Cause/Fault? No.
Well, yes, if the J1772 paddle is crap and you get a poor connection, you could melt the J adapter. But that's about all that an EVSE could do to the car.
I really wish they would provide details about fixes in the release notes. I'm not asking for something that would be fodder for positive or negative EV posts and articles. I'm talking about details for those of us that want to have some of the information available for both analyzing and understanding our vehicles AND so that when other EV manufacturers join the party they can benefit from Tesla's learnings.
Good to know. As I got two 12v battery issues so far, I don't have super confidence in this 12v system. So any improvement is welcome.
Meanwhile, I bought a digital voltmeter to put in the car.
Well we'll see if any changes show up. I am currently doing a one week data recording of the 12V system.
I will post another another graph. I am very curious how Tesla managed to reduce the range loss when the car is sitting. Did they actually reduce the system load or are they reporting it differently?
Last time I was in for service I saw the diagnostic screen that showed the 12V current draw of the car. It was 6.84 amps at 13.7V with the car displays powered on. Sure wish I could find out the current draw when the car displays are off.
I will post another another graph. I am very curious how Tesla managed to reduce the range loss when the car is sitting. Did they actually reduce the system load or are they reporting it differently?
Last time I was in for service I saw the diagnostic screen that showed the 12V current draw of the car. It was 6.84 amps at 13.7V with the car displays powered on. Sure wish I could find out the current draw when the car displays are off.
That seems like a reason that they wouldn't want to publish the info. Why would they want to aid their competitors?
Background reading material that explains why:
The Secret Tesla Motors Master Plan (just between you and me) | Blog | Tesla Motors
As another point, the new release notes delete the previous release notes and render them inaccessible. So it's very important that this forum ARCHIVE them, because there's no other way to have a full list of the changes since the last printed manual. (Sigh.)
I still haven't got my car... They're replacing the whole battery pack... One thing for sure, I'll monitor my 12v battery from now on.
JRP3
Hyperactive Member
I dont know the answer, but I would have assumed yes it is. Else, why would they even need the 12V battery? I thought the point was that they didn't want to have to figure out the step down to power all the 12V components. But I'm no expert and I could be way off base.
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