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12V battery issues (error messages/car charging problems)

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I had 12v battery warnings Tuesday night. I had the car parked for about 5 hours. When I returned I had 3 different warnings related to the battery and the car was not able to drive. Radio, bluetooth, touch screen and dash were fine, but no A/C and couldn't shift out of park.

I had the car towed Wednesday morning and is still being diagnosed at the Phoenix service center (which still isn't officially a service center for some reason).
 
Received a call from Dallas Service Center that my car's computer in its daily download to Tesla that the 12v batter was weakening and needed replacing. Taking it in tomorrow, but have not received any other kind of warning.

I am impressed that Tesla called me before I received any kind of warning light or message.
 
I got a call from my service center yesterday to schedule an 'urgent' software update to the DC-DC converter firmware. Apparently Tesla is rolling this out to all Model S with down-rev firmware in that module; they were planning to get to several cars in my vicinity with the same potential issue. When I asked the tech who showed up at home to perform the install, he said the new algorithm basically has a higher voltage threshold at which to begin re-charging the 12V from the traction pack. I asked about the health of my 12V battery, since I've had the car eight months; he said that as I've never had a 12V system warning, my 12V battery should be fine. By the way, he went in through a panel on the driver's end of the dash to access a service terminal with his laptop.
 
Unlucky one... Flatbed Returns for my Car (12V!)

Appears to be the 12V dead again. Happened in April to me also. Both times, car was dead, driver's side window down (luckily in good, safe places).

Upside: Customer support was better this go round; still dropped the ball a bit with transition from Roadside operator to Towing company (showed up with a flatbed that was not going to make the 7' clearance I told operator about) and towed to San Rafael, then to Fremont (where it should have gone all along), but.... Repair group sent me repair order same day and suggested return time of car (less than 24 hours) which I consider pretty darn good.

One bit of feedback for Tesla: Your CRM needs improvement - only repair team could see that this was the second time this happened - customer notes should be available to all, every time I call.

One tidbit - I heard that 12v supplier was having problems and that Tesla now feels they have addressed them. Anyone else heard that and had a similar problem resolved?

I'm hoping this is the last time I deal with this 12V issues, because the car in every other way has exceeded expectations. 4 months later and I am still looking for excuses to go run errands in it.
 
I got a call from my service center yesterday to schedule an 'urgent' software update to the DC-DC converter firmware. Apparently Tesla is rolling this out to all Model S with down-rev firmware in that module; they were planning to get to several cars in my vicinity with the same potential issue. When I asked the tech who showed up at home to perform the install, he said the new algorithm basically has a higher voltage threshold at which to begin re-charging the 12V from the traction pack. I asked about the health of my 12V battery, since I've had the car eight months; he said that as I've never had a 12V system warning, my 12V battery should be fine. By the way, he went in through a panel on the driver's end of the dash to access a service terminal with his laptop.

Had the 19's switched out and the 21's put on today. Service also installed the DC-DC patch, but no mention about it being urgent. Apparently the charge threshold was raised to 12.4V from 12.0V
 
We came out of dinner at Spago in Beverly Hills and the valet brought the car up and all the warning lights were on and We couldn't get the car out of park.
the car was in the middle of the street lucky my gf had her phone and the Tesla 866 service number and we called and they rebooted the car Nd we were able to getting home.
the next morning the car as Dead ....Tesla send the rangers two times but we couldn't get it to start
Towed the Caron rollers since it was in park
Tesla LA Joe, Vince ,and Minsoo all called me and explained the 12 volt battery was the problem
Pi had been in tears since we only had the car 3 days
they promised it wouldn't happen again
 
We came out of dinner at Spago in Beverly Hills and the valet brought the car up and all the warning lights were on and We couldn't get the car out of park.
the car was in the middle of the street lucky my gf had her phone and the Tesla 866 service number and we called and they rebooted the car Nd we were able to getting home.
the next morning the car as Dead ....Tesla send the rangers two times but we couldn't get it to start
Towed the Caron rollers since it was in park
Tesla LA Joe, Vince ,and Minsoo all called me and explained the 12 volt battery was the problem
Pi had been in tears since we only had the car 3 days
they promised it wouldn't happen again

Really sorry to hear this happened to you the way it did. They are very aware of the issue, so at least it won't happen again, but still sucks.
At least when it happened to me I was parked at home, and the second time it was parked at a parking garage at work.
They'll have it up and running normally in short time I'm sure.
 
Well I'm joining the club of the 12V battery issue.

On vacation with my family at an hotel in the mountains 100km away from home, where I charge on 110V"12A (they don't have 240V but still kindly offered me a prime parking spot and a 110V plug

Drove the car for a few minutes Saturday and decided to leave the car parked in the main parking lot after the car was full (not charging anymore)

24 hours later (Sunday), my app was showing a charge of 0 on the car... Went to see the car since it was supposed to be 80% full, I was able to open the handles with double-clicking the keyfob but both screens were dead, pitch black. Tried the press the brake, nothing... tried the reboot, nothing happened... I took the Tesla booklet with Roadside assitance number in it and called them. Reminded me that I should have their phone number in my cell's contact if ever I can't access the car.

Rep confirmed that I had an issue with the 12V battery and proposed 2 options: Towing right now or Ranger the next day. I chose Ranger since I didn't need the car that much for 1-2 days.

Ranger showed up the next day. He opened the door and.... the screens were up and running. What a shame for me. But fortunately enough for my pride there was and message "Car needs service, 12V battery issue" displayed.

The Ranger wanted to replace the battery and started the work. God it hurts to see his car being ripped appart. In the mean time, the national supervisor called him and asked that he not replace the 12V battery since the issue is likely not the 12V battery but something else and replacing it would simply postpone the next occurence. The Ranger noticed that the 12V was failing from time to time (intermittent issue), He finally decided to ask for a towing and repair it at the Service Center.

When the towing arrived, the screens were black again. couldn't put the car in neutral, very high setting and jack mode. I waited 2-3 min and tried to reopen the car with the keyfob double click. Screens were back. I did all the necessary to prepare the car for the towing and drove it on the towing while the 12V was lasting.

They said they changed faulty connectors at the Service Center and that it shouldn't happen again. sigh!!!

2 good news though: 1) They got my Vent upgrade and steering clicking fixed and 2) the car only lost 4km in 48 hours vs 30-40 mornally sitting idle

oh and one last thing, while the screens were black, I could still here the touchscreen fan noise... I can't get rid of that noise even when the car was dead.
 
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6 day old brick

Went to top off the charge this morning (it had almost 200 on it yesterday) but found a dead S. Talked to support, and it looks like the 12V battery is the problem. After some web searches, it looks like an old problem that has still not been fixed, since I picked up the car last Monday.

Luckily the car is at home, but I have to wait until tomorrow to see if they have to tow it (60 miles each way) or fix it here.

Now I have to start telling everyone who has asked about the car and taken rides that it's unfortunately not ready to be trusted. Sigh.
 
So you have never had a bad 12volt battery in another car?
Have you tried trickle charging the battery? That may well get it started so you can drive it to the service center.

I feel for you and am sorry this happened, but this is certainly not the common definition of 'bricking' and is something that is pretty easy to correct.
 
Went to top off the charge this morning (it had almost 200 on it yesterday) but found a dead S. Talked to support, and it looks like the 12V battery is the problem. After some web searches, it looks like an old problem that has still not been fixed, since I picked up the car last Monday.

Luckily the car is at home, but I have to wait until tomorrow to see if they have to tow it (60 miles each way) or fix it here.

Now I have to start telling everyone who has asked about the car and taken rides that it's unfortunately not ready to be trusted. Sigh.

never heard of that for tesla or any EV.

Tesla is good at repair & update the thread after repairs.:wink:
 
So you have never had a bad 12volt battery in another car?
Have you tried trickle charging the battery? That may well get it started so you can drive it to the service center.

I feel for you and am sorry this happened, but this is certainly not the common definition of 'bricking' and is something that is pretty easy to correct.

Sure, battery problems on 5 year old cars with 50,000 miles. How does one trickle charge with a dead computer, and the charge port locked out so you can't connect? No information in the manuals on where the 12V battery is, and how to jump it, whether it's safe, etc. Guess I'll find out tomorrow.

I have read that there were defective 12V batteries early on, so maybe they still haven't replaced them. Or maybe it's a DC converter problem that some people have mentioned.