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12v switched power for Radar Detector
- Thread starter Madsen203
- Start date
skydve1
Member
I just bought a trailer brake controller harness for my 2021 MYLR last week. I did a service request in the app asking for the specific part # 1072586-00-A. The local service center (Richmond, VA) had it in stock. It was $4.40 + tax, and they shipped it to me for free via FedEx ground.
i get its the trailer brake harness. what does this have to do with radar, what am i missing?
thanks guys.
skydve1
Member
You don't have to splice or tap wires if you use the harness. The harness plugs into an existing connector, and you use the 12v from the harness for your radar detector install.
This! No damaging or touching wires on the car. Easy plug and play. And removal. All while being switched power which is the key as many wiretap solutions tap into a wire that is live until the car is asleep. This requires the car to be “on” for it to provide power. Saving your radar detector from running needlessly while parked.
awesome, thanks guys. i would love if you could provide a picture of that setup down there...i get it if you dont wanna take off the kick panel to do it. so i grabbed the wire from amazon for my uniden R3. i will just tuck it up in the headliner then down the A post into that kick panel...into harness, then harness plugs into that area.
how does that sound?
thanks for explaining gents.
skydve1
Member
Sounds perfect.
Just be sure cap to off the wires you're not using from the brake harness (or use electrical tape) - you don't want a wire shorting to ground by accident.
Took me about 15-20 minutes to get it wired up and then some extra to get it cleaned up. Pushed wire into headliner, popped off pillar trim and strung it along some pre-existing wires above the airbag. Down the side and into the connector. Had to remove 3.5 pieces of trim. The two pieces next to the left side of the dash, the kick panel that runs along the entry of the driver side, and I popped the trim out at the top of the pillar without actually removing it from the base. Easy! I used butt end crimp and heat shrank the connection for good measure. After wiring it to the detector, I clicked in the trailer harness connector. I zip tied the extra wires.
when I sit in the vehicle, it turns on. When I exit, it turns off. Seamless.
the part was just over $4 from Tesla. The 10’ “hardwire” kit from Amazon I think was $20. Not too bad!
Exactly. Red to red. Black to black. White and blue are not needed (they are for the trailer brakes).
And yes, it’s an R3. The suction cup mount that comes with it from factory works surprisingly well.
right on. did you watch a video on what panels, etc...need to be removed for install?
remove the side panel that is on the side of the dash board straight out. Watch for the wood trim as it can cause it to peel or chip.
Remove the straight panel that is about 6” long that was previously touching the removed part. That exposes a clip for the bottom trim.
Remove the bottom trim that runs along entry of door. All snapped in.
there’s a clip holding the carpet that leads to the dead foot rest. Should be obvious. Remove it. Pull carpet and styrofoam away to reveal trailer brake harness.
Remove a pillar trim by pulling out towards center rear view mirror.
Now you should have access to a clean path.
I used a pry tool to leverage the ceiling trim enough to slide the cable in.
love it, will do this tomorrow!
thanks for sticking around to help, really appreciate it.
my blendmount from our bmw x5 works, so im stoked. got the harness today at tesla SC, and butt spliced it into the amazon uniden R3 wire. all set for success!
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