Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

2.0 / 2.5 Roadster / Roadster Sport Tire Thread

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
I have DWS 06 and if I were you I would go with extreme contact sports, I have them for real emergency freak snow drops, but for 3 seasons I would have the extreme contacts. I looked long and hard and with the water traction of the extreme contacts you could not do much better. I also do long trips so the decreased rolling resistance also swayed me to the 06’s. You made a solid choice.
 
ExtremeContact DWS06 are all-season tires (Dry, Wet, Snow). When the 'S' wears down, they
become DW (Dry, Wet). Definitely not a summer tire.
Yeah, and I checked on the Tire Rack site, and the ExtremeContact Sport are definitely Summer tires, not all-season. Not recommended to be driven below 40F.

I think I'll still go with them, and just be more mindful of the temps. The Yokos on the front have been fine, for example, even in winter. The Les Schwab guy said that 40F isn't a knife-edged boundary, and as long as the car's being driven, the tire will stay warm enough and be fine. Just don't start out with them cold-soaked. Since the car is in an attached garage, that will not be a problem. Never gets below about 50 in there.
 
Broke off how? I always leave the locking one less tight. Any competent tire shop can get the locking bolts off. I would drill 2 holes in the bolt and use a 2 pinned adaptor to turn off the locking bolt. But I’m sure others have their own tricks
 
Broke off how? I always leave the locking one less tight. Any competent tire shop can get the locking bolts off. I would drill 2 holes in the bolt and use a 2 pinned adaptor to turn off the locking bolt. But I’m sure others have their own tricks
It just sheered off. The "key" part that fits in the lock came out in a few pieces.

The tire shop said this happens all the time, and they just put a wrench around the nut to take it off. But there's no space to do that with the wheels. They didn't mention the 2 pinned adapter idea... But even so, that's not going to be a permanent solution.

Fortunately, this happened on the second wheel to be removed (vs the last one). The first has been put back on, with only 4 of the 5 lug nuts holding it. Not good, but ok around town in the very short term. We've left messages for Tesla Support, but they really don't want to be contacted - they don't answer the phone, and the voice mailbox is full. I go online to chat, and that option gets grayed out when I click on it. Nothing after that.

I'm wondering if I just show up at the service department I might get some attention... It's 20 minutes away on the freeway.
 
It just sheered off. The "key" part that fits in the lock came out in a few pieces.

The tire shop said this happens all the time, and they just put a wrench around the nut to take it off. But there's no space to do that with the wheels. They didn't mention the 2 pinned adapter idea... But even so, that's not going to be a permanent solution.

Fortunately, this happened on the second wheel to be removed (vs the last one). The first has been put back on, with only 4 of the 5 lug nuts holding it. Not good, but ok around town in the very short term. We've left messages for Tesla Support, but they really don't want to be contacted - they don't answer the phone, and the voice mailbox is full. I go online to chat, and that option gets grayed out when I click on it. Nothing after that.

I'm wondering if I just show up at the service department I might get some attention... It's 20 minutes away on the freeway.
An update... Finally managed to get in touch with Tesla Service via their on-line chat, using the Chrome browser on my smartphone. Firefox on everything else never activated the chat. You'd think a Silicon Valley company could get the browser thing figured out...

Spencer was very helpful, and apparently got in touch with the SC. They need to special order the key, and claim it will be in by Monday (really?). They're supposed to call me when it's in.

Fingers crossed.
 
Quick "progress" update... I'll save the Tesla Service rant for a separate post. (Spoiler alert, their communication channels have "problems".)

Monday has come and gone, with no hint of a wheel key. Today (Tuesday) I drove my wife's car down to the SC and find that, yes, they in fact had ordered the key. Actually a whole set of them. For anyone else in this situation, there are 8 variants, A-H, stamped at the base of both the bolt and key. They apparently don't have a record of which car uses what key. Probably will have to come from Norway. No ETA, however.

After a discussion with the service manager, we agreed that the best plan is as suggested, to swap out the keyed bolts for non-keyed when the keys come. He expedited the key for my car, and also ordered a set of 4 of the non-keyed bolts. Tesla Service van will come to my house to swap keyed for non-keyed, saving me the cost of buying the key and the risk of it breaking again in the future. They also found a used bolt, which they gave me (can't charge for used items). I have had it installed in the wheel, so the car is back to being safe to drive. Now I just need for the key and bolts to get delivered, so we can complete this normally routine tire change.
 
Ok, final update to the tire saga, for documentation purposes. Key borrowed by the local SC from one across the state. Arrived on Wednesday last, and they actually called me that it had arrived. Drove down an hour later and they swapped the remaining keyed bolts, and the loaner used one, for the 4 new unkeyed bolts that I had purchased from them the prior week. No further issues (keyed bolts weren't frozen or such). Donated the "D" bolts to the SC for anyone else who still has their key and needs the bolts.

I've not driven much on the new ExtremeContact Sport tires, but can report that they have apparently solved one problem that I had. With the old tires (Advans on the front, Michelins on the rear) I was increasingly feeling the car pull to one side or the other as I was driving. Seemed like something was either loose up front, or that I needed an alignment, or both. The fronts still had plenty of tread, but were getting old, so I had them swapped as well as the rears. Either way, that problem is now gone. Yay!

One other note, to nobody's surprise I presume, when you get your tires changed, do check the pressure yourself. They put 38 in the fronts, and about 31 in the rear, which is nearly exactly backwards. I've got them now at 30 front, 40 rear, which is what the original tire sticker on the door jam says. Is that the best pressure for the Contis?

Thanks for all the help!

Greg