2021+ Model S and Model S Plaid Refresh Issues Thread

[tps5352]

I got the update, but now getting “dashcam viewer unavailable” when I try to open the viewer…anyone else solved this one yet? Maybe I have to reformat the usb drive again?

I encountered the same problem. Tesla recommended rebooting the system. I haven't done that yet. After that, I'll reformat the USB drive and let you know the results.

Rebooted twice and reformatted the USB drive twice. Dashcam Viewer now launches via the icon. I only found out today after calling Tesla that the Dashcam does not have a "live" view, which I mistakenly thought it did.

I am experiencing that problem (dashcam unavailable). Can't reformat (on the car). Can't activate dashcam app icon. Can't charge or play iPod/iPhone music (like before) from those two USB ports. I found that my two front center console power+data USB ports were dead. The rear power-only USB ports are fine, as is the 12v outlet in the center console. I started this thread: USB Ports Stopped Working.

I've schedule a mobile repair appointment for 1/19/22, I wonder if it is software- or hardware-related? I dislike being without dashcam and Sentry Mode video capability.

 

[LiveSai]

I am experiencing that problem (dashcam unavailable). Can't reformat (on the car). Can't activate dashcam app icon. Can't charge or play iPod/iPhone music (like before) from those two USB ports. I found that my two front center console power+data USB ports were dead. The rear power-only USB ports are fine, as is the 12v outlet in the center console. I started this thread: USB Ports Stopped Working.

I've schedule a mobile repair appointment for 1/19/22, I wonder if it is software- or hardware-related? I dislike being without dashcam and Sentry Mode video capability.

I was able to do it through the USB port in the glove box. All I had to do was reformat my hard drive and the recording icon popped up.

 

[tps5352]

I was able to do it through the USB port in the glove box. All I had to do was reformat my hard drive and the recording icon popped up.

As far as I know, Model X does not have a USB port of any kind in its glove box. The two front USB ports in the center console are supposed to be for data & power. The two rear USB ports in the center console are power-only. (I just re-checked the ['Legacy' Model X] Owner's Manual and that is what it says.)

I have been successfully using the two front USB ports to record Dashcam and Sentry Mode videos, and for music (iPod). Since late December they are not working.

 

[cwanja]

I am experiencing that problem (dashcam unavailable). Can't reformat (on the car). Can't activate dashcam app icon. Can't charge or play iPod/iPhone music (like before) from those two USB ports. I found that my two front center console power+data USB ports were dead. The rear power-only USB ports are fine, as is the 12v outlet in the center console. I started this thread: USB Ports Stopped Working.

I've schedule a mobile repair appointment for 1/19/22, I wonder if it is software- or hardware-related? I dislike being without dashcam and Sentry Mode video capability.

If you are not getting any power or data, my assumption is the USB hub is dead. And likely needs to be replaced.

 

[yerEVan]

Anyone have or get resolved a rattle in the dash? almost like a light clunking noise when going over small bumps on the road. Started recently round 3500 miles. Very annoying.

 

[VikH]

Anyone with a refresh S (heat pump) have heating issues in sub 10F weather? Lots of 3/Y heat pump cars are having issues and I am wondering if the S has the same system.

 

[n2mb_racing]

Anyone with a refresh S (heat pump) have heating issues in sub 10F weather? Lots of 3/Y heat pump cars are having issues and I am wondering if the S has the same system.

I thought heat pumps wouldn't work in really cold weather, but it seems like it should be possible.

Heat Pumps: A Practical Solution for Cold Climates - RMI

It’s almost winter in the Northern Hemisphere; time for people to snuggle up with their families (including the four-legged members), cultivate the now-international practice of hygge, and find other ways to deal with the relative lack of sun. The cold is coming, and with it comes the question...

rmi.org

It doesn't get cold enough in NC for me to find out, though. I have noticed that maybe on the coldest days it takes a bit longer to preheat the car compared to our model 3 with a resistance heater, but not by much.

 

[jebinc]

I thought heat pumps wouldn't work in really cold weather, but it seems like it should be possible.

Heat Pumps: A Practical Solution for Cold Climates - RMI

It’s almost winter in the Northern Hemisphere; time for people to snuggle up with their families (including the four-legged members), cultivate the now-international practice of hygge, and find other ways to deal with the relative lack of sun. The cold is coming, and with it comes the question...

rmi.org

It doesn't get cold enough in NC for me to find out, though. I have noticed that maybe on the coldest days it takes a bit longer to preheat the car compared to our model 3 with a resistance heater, but not by much.

Heat pumps are efficient down to about 35 degrees F, then resistance heating for additional needs below that.

 

[MP3Mike]

Heat pumps are efficient down to about 35 degrees F, then resistance heating for additional needs below that.

Not the way Tesla implemented a heat pump, they are effective much below 35. There is no big restive heater, there are just 2 small 12v ones used to help with the temperature difference between zones.

 

[n2mb_racing]

Heat pumps are efficient down to about 35 degrees F, then resistance heating for additional needs below that.

Do we know if the plaid has a resistance heater?

 

[jebinc]

Do we know if the plaid has a resistance heater?

I believe all heat pump equipped cars do.

 

[Proppilot]

Interesting text quoted from an article in insideevs. It implies at the end that Tesla is not using a resistive heater.

Tesla Model Y Heat Pump Details Infrequently Discussed By The Media

Tesla’s new system “boosts” the heat pump to give it better efficiency than regular heat pump systems and uses unique methods for heating below -10C.

insideevs.com

The interesting details not frequently discussed center around the additional ways this system can move heat between the passenger cabin, the battery, the drive unit and outside ambient to improve system efficiency beyond that of just a plain heat pump. Many of the heat sources are low-grade energy sources and they need to be augmented at a temperature below -10C (14F). The patent describes a number of ways Tesla can do this without using a high voltage heater.

 

[Donsla MS]

I guess that is why heated seats and steering wheel are so important. But, one of the more important areas to receive heat is your feet! If there are leaks of cold air in the footwell, (i have read reports of this) and the blower cannot counter this heat loss, game over...

 

[n2mb_racing]

Interesting text quoted from an article in insideevs. It implies at the end that Tesla is not using a resistive heater.

Tesla Model Y Heat Pump Details Infrequently Discussed By The Media

Tesla’s new system “boosts” the heat pump to give it better efficiency than regular heat pump systems and uses unique methods for heating below -10C.

insideevs.com

The interesting details not frequently discussed center around the additional ways this system can move heat between the passenger cabin, the battery, the drive unit and outside ambient to improve system efficiency beyond that of just a plain heat pump. Many of the heat sources are low-grade energy sources and they need to be augmented at a temperature below -10C (14F). The patent describes a number of ways Tesla can do this without using a high voltage heater.

Yeah, interesting. It seems there is a 12V 1000W resistive aux heater for the passenger compartment. Interesting choice to use the 12V for that.

 

[Proppilot]

Saw that, they discuss that it is used for differential heating temps between the driver and passenger. 12 volts makes no sense at all for a 1,000 watt heater as (I=P/V) that would be close to 85 amps draw. At 300 volts off the battery it would be 3 amp so a huge difference in wire/controller sizing..

 

[n2mb_racing]

Saw that, they discuss that it is used for differential heating temps between the driver and passenger. 12 volts makes no sense at all for a 1,000 watt heater as (I=P/V) that would be close to 85 amps draw. At 300 volts off the battery it would be 3 amp so a huge difference in wire/controller sizing..

Especially since they'd waste a 5-10% of that power in the DC/DC converter. I believe the DC/DC is rated for 2500W, but that would eat up a lot of the capacity for seat heaters and other things.

 

[rhuber]

PSA-ish/TLDR: you should prob check to see if your rear adaptive suspension wiring harness is installed properly in a refresh model S, because mine wasn't...

I found this thread via the phrase "Adaptive Ride Control disabled". I had this error for 1000 miles of my 2000 mile road trip over the weekend and it was awful. The suspension ends up in a fallback mode where it is floaty and disconnected and dangerous. Because I'm me, I had to figure out the root cause. A few folks in this thread mentioned that the service center said they needed a harness replacement, and I'm guessing at least a few of them have the same issue I found: the harness for the compression/rebound solenoid on the rear is installed incorrectly and rubs against the tire as it spins.

You can check this relatively easily by raising your suspension and sticking a smartphone in there looking straight down. Here is the bad side, where you can see it is rubbing a clean patch into the wheel as it spins and has destroyed a lot of the wire over the course of 15k miles:

And a view with the wheel removed. where you can see friction has destroyed the wire connection:

and finally, here is a properly installed one (the other side of my car):

 

[n2mb_racing]

Installed 2021.44.30.1 last night. All the same software bugs are still there:
- The yoke makes a continuous buzzing sound after the first button press. It is silent until you press any button.
- The rear-view mirror fan hoots.
- The logic for the console cubby light is backwards. The light turns off when you open the lid and turns on when you close it.

 

[Donsla MS]

PSA-ish/TLDR: you should prob check to see if your rear adaptive suspension wiring harness is installed properly in a refresh model S, because mine wasn't...

I found this thread via the phrase "Adaptive Ride Control disabled". I had this error for 1000 miles of my 2000 mile road trip over the weekend and it was awful. The suspension ends up in a fallback mode where it is floaty and disconnected and dangerous. Because I'm me, I had to figure out the root cause. A few folks in this thread mentioned that the service center said they needed a harness replacement, and I'm guessing at least a few of them have the same issue I found: the harness for the compression/rebound solenoid on the rear is installed incorrectly and rubs against the tire as it spins.

You can check this relatively easily by raising your suspension and sticking a smartphone in there looking straight down. Here is the bad side, where you can see it is rubbing a clean patch into the wheel as it spins and has destroyed a lot of the wire over the course of 15k miles:

View attachment 754414

And a view with the wheel removed. where you can see friction has destroyed the wire connection:
View attachment 754416and finally, here is a properly installed one (the other side of my car):

View attachment 754418

As a retired industrial maintenance mechanic, had built two drag cars, maintained, modified and flew an experimental aircraft, this lack of quality control and leaving it up to the new owner to find the problems really pisses me off! BEFORE a six figure payment, these cars should have been gone over, bumper to bumper. I noticed Tesla has an issue in general with the proper routing and retention of both large and small wires. I have a EDD on an S LR in April and I am starting to question if I should cancel my order because I don't want to have to troubleshoot a six figure car for Tesla... I like Lucid! Especially for the much better, more honest range.....

 

[n2mb_racing]

As a retired industrial maintenance mechanic, had built two drag cars, maintained, modified and flew an experimental aircraft, this lack of quality control and leaving it up to the new owner to find the problems really pisses me off! BEFORE a six figure payment, these cars should have been gone over, bumper to bumper. I noticed Tesla has an issue in general with the proper routing and retention of both large and small wires. I have a EDD on an S LR in April and I am starting to question if I should cancel my order because I don't want to have to troubleshoot a six figure car for Tesla... I like Lucid! Especially for the much better, more honest range.....

I agree. The quality control needs to improve. We've been saying that for 10 years now.... No one is inspecting these cars after assembly. They are just shoving them out the door. The dealers are maybe looking at them a bit when they prep them for delivery, but not that carefully.

I was interested in Lucid until they said they have a tri-motor version that they aren't selling now... Then I stopped paying attention. I'll check in again when they finally release the fast one.