2021+ Model S and Model S Plaid Refresh Issues Thread

[skizzy]

Apologies in advance.... I have read through the last 20 or so pages and can't find any mention of a "Shudder/studder" between ~40-45 MPH.... Am i imagining things or was this a common problem in this thread? Wondering if i am going crazy, i thought i could live with it but low and behold, i spend a lot of time between 40 and 45.....

 

[jebinc]

Yes. It’s normal. All part of Tesla’s stunning double-pane glass that is free of distortion.

I have that same rattle. If you figure out the source of it there’s virtual beer in it for you! Saying that, it’s rather the least of my worries, though still a tad annoying.

My MYP double pane glass IS "distortion free," but every panel in the Plaid is like looking through incorrect prescription glasses. Pretty sad, really.

 

[VM0412]

Has anyone experienced this occasional popping sound - normally when accelerating / decelerating? iCloud

Taking in for service tomorrow, but wondering if anyone else has had similar issue.

Any update on this?

 

[eddiemoy]

Apologies in advance.... I have read through the last 20 or so pages and can't find any mention of a "Shudder/studder" between ~40-45 MPH.... Am i imagining things or was this a common problem in this thread? Wondering if i am going crazy, i thought i could live with it but low and behold, i spend a lot of time between 40 and 45.....

yes, very common problem. I didn't have it on my 19", then it started happening as I put more miles into it. Not as bad as my 21". i still feel it can be fixed via software update. it doesn't feel like a mechanical issue.

 

[omarsultan]

Apologies in advance.... I have read through the last 20 or so pages and can't find any mention of a "Shudder/studder" between ~40-45 MPH.... Am i imagining things or was this a common problem in this thread? Wondering if i am going crazy, i thought i could live with it but low and behold, i spend a lot of time between 40 and 45.....

There were some reports of this early on--not sure which thread. IIRC a FW update addressed the issue.

 

[theslimshadyist]

Apologies in advance.... I have read through the last 20 or so pages and can't find any mention of a "Shudder/studder" between ~40-45 MPH.... Am i imagining things or was this a common problem in this thread? Wondering if i am going crazy, i thought i could live with it but low and behold, i spend a lot of time between 40 and 45.....

Model S vibrations

 

[yvg240]

Has anyone seen the park assist unavailable warning. It pops up every time I come to a stop. Very annoying. I'm on 32.10 not EAP.View attachment 710601

Not trying to be snarky, but really? The biggest complain is that you’re missing a cover in your trunk that is back ordered and will be sent to you when available? Should Tesla have just not delivered the car at all until that piece was avail?

Park assist is not auto park. Park assist is the sensors that beep at low speed when you get near objects in front and back while you’re parking.

I don't believe I said anything about auto park. This is apparently a known issue and is wide spread. Many Tesla users complain of Park Assist feature unavailable issue

 

[Desert Dave]

Just received update 2021.32.20 for my LR. Hopefully it removes all defects such as trim adjustment, window quality, random noises, improves battery range, provides free supercharging, reduces payments, and other improvements UPDATE: Sadly, it only references updates to SXM radio and music immersion settings.

 

[MarcG]

Just received update 2021.32.20 for my LR. Hopefully it removes all defects such as trim adjustment, window quality, random noises, improves battery range, provides free supercharging, reduces payments, and other improvements UPDATE: Sadly, it only references updates to SXM radio and music immersion settings.

So nothing new since 2021.32.10

 

[MorrisonHiker]

So nothing new since 2021.32.10

It's possible The Button was added and is awaiting activation.

 

[skizzy]

Model S vibrations

well poop..... somewhere between live with it OR no idea what's going on.

 

[SailorDave]

GOOD CALL!! I put both the back seats down and Sur enough there was no rattle. Then I put the left rear seat and center piece back up and again there was no rattle. Then I put the right rear seat back up and Bam the rattle was back. So it’s definitely the right rear seat safety belt issue. But it sounds to me like it’s coming from the harness retraction housing so I put a piece of cloth in the opening and stuffed it as far back as I could and tried it again and 90% of the rattle was gone. So I think it’s not the seat buckle but rather something in the housing of the return harness. But now I can at least narrow in what the problem is when I bring it to the service center. Thanks a lot for your help.

I had mobile service out today for the rattle and some other issues. He could not figure it out so off to my November service appointment. Hopefully someone gets an appointment before my 6 week wait as I would like to be able to tell the service center how to solve the issue.

Dave

 

[WilliamG]

This car is so great. The cool thing is the data, though. You can see how as it crept up from 9/08 for about a week or so while I left the car, undriven, cell balancing at 90% - and that clearly didn't work, as it took a dump right after a drive. The car is going to settle around 230-240 miles at full charge, based on how much charge it put in from 3% - 100%, - 67.4kWh. The car just doesn't know it quite yet.

Anyone here fancy a 230-mile Plaid? Other than that and about 425 other issues, it's awesome!

 

[Muzzman1]

This car is so great. The cool thing is the data, though. You can see how as it crept up from 9/08 for about a week or so while I left the car, undriven, cell balancing at 90% - and that clearly didn't work, as it took a dump right after a drive. The car is going to settle around 230-240 miles at full charge, based on how much charge it put in from 3% - 100%, - 67.4kWh. The car just doesn't know it quite yet.

Anyone here fancy a 230-mile Plaid? Other than that and about 425 other issues, it's awesome!

View attachment 712030

Funny, not funny.
We just wait now. We just wait and see if they will get us new packs.

 

[WilliamG]

It's possible The Button was added and is awaiting activation.

I really, really doubt The Button is coming to the new Model S quite yet. Nobody with a new Model S has FSD beta yet, and heck - they can't even get AutoPark to the regular (non-EAP) owners yet!

Funny, not funny.
We just wait now. We just wait and see if they will get us new packs.

Only been waiting 5 weeks (5 days after getting the car and still Tesla is in denial about the pack). What's another week or twenty! Trying to be patient, but man...

One hundred and sixty four thousand dollars including tax. $164,000! And yet here I am, unable to take that Labor Day weekend road trip I was dying to take because this car is so unreliable. Unable to take any road trip because this car is so unreliable. Nuts.

 

[Phlier]

I received the no drive detected sentry mode will use more battery. I purchased a 1. TB SSD drive. Formatted it using the Tesla format.
is it exfat or fat32. I find both online. I read manual but this still occurs. 3 sentry cam alerts. No videos. Honk to save a clip no video. Dashcam no videos.
anyone have similar problems?

Sorry if this has already been posted, but I haven't finished the thread quite yet...

You want to use exFAT to format the drive. It's a much more "resilient" file system that is less prone to directory corruption when/if the drive isn't "unmounted" correctly. Unfortunately, firmware updates have a tendency to not "unmount" attached storage devices correctly, which can cause directory corruption, which results in you having to reformat your storage device in order for the car to recognize it.

Formatting in exFAT helps, at least to a certain extent, to prevent this.

Edit: I had a few problems getting the in-car formatting to work correctly. I used a PC to reformat in exFAT a few months ago, and haven't had a problem since. Might want to consider using a PC to format your storage device.

 

[Phlier]

My MYP double pane glass IS "distortion free," but every panel in the Plaid is like looking through incorrect prescription glasses. Pretty sad, really.

My 2019 Model 3 Performance has it on a large section of the far right side of the windshield. Top to bottom. Luckily, it's only really noticeable when looking at it from the drivers seat; if it was as obvious to the passenger, it would literally be nauseating. Looking straight through it isn't bad, but looking through it at an angle is "fun house mirror" type of yucky.

 

[dlfjed]

Sorry if this has already been posted, but I haven't finished the thread quite yet...

You want to use exFAT to format the drive. It's a much more "resilient" file system that is less prone to directory corruption when/if the drive isn't "unmounted" correctly. Unfortunately, firmware updates have a tendency to not "unmount" attached storage devices correctly, which can cause directory corruption, which results in you having to reformat your storage device in order for the car to recognize it.

Formatting in exFAT helps, at least to a certain extent, to prevent this.

Edit: I had a few problems getting the in-car formatting to work correctly. I used a PC to reformat in exFAT a few months ago, and haven't had a problem since. Might want to consider using a PC to format your storage device.

Thank you. I tried yoke reset. It helped? Have dashcam footage now. A sentry mode video out of 3 activations. Tried the honk to save. Nothing. I’ll. Try computer.

 

[Gluber]

I had mobile service out today for the rattle and some other issues. He could not figure it out so off to my November service appointment. Hopefully someone gets an appointment before my 6 week wait as I would like to be able to tell the service center how to solve the issue.

Dave

I had mobile service out today for the rattle and some other issues. He could not figure it out so off to my November service appointment. Hopefully someone gets an appointment before my 6 week wait as I would like to be able to tell the service center how to solve the issue.

Dave

I think Bull is right and I wasn't understanding what you guys meant by the actual seat latch where the black metal arm connects into the back of the seat and where it releases after you press the release button to fold down. The question now is how does it get fixed? I'm going to drive over to my SC tomorrow and show them what we've been talking about and maybe I'll get lucky and they will have had someone come in with the same problem and know how to fix it. Worth a shot. If not I'll make an appointment to bring it in and leave it there.
SailorDave, did you have the mobile service guy who came out look at the latch that holds the right back seat in place and tell him it doesn't rattle when the seat is not connected to the latch??

 

[Gluber]

I think Bull is right and I wasn't understanding what you guys meant by the actual seat latch where the black metal arm connects into the back of the seat and where it releases after you press the release button to fold down. The question now is how does it get fixed? I'm going to drive over to my SC tomorrow and show them what we've been talking about and maybe I'll get lucky and they will have had someone come in with the same problem and know how to fix it. Worth a shot. If not I'll make an appointment to bring it in and leave it there.
SailorDave, did you have the mobile service guy who came out look at the latch that holds the right back seat in place and tell him it doesn't rattle when the seat is not connected to the latch??

Edit: just got back from putting some blue painters tape on the arm that attaches to the back of the seat and it worked. That is the fix. I'm just going to change out the blue tape for black tape and case closed. ( See pix below ) Why have them start digging into the back of the seat and possibly screw something else up.
Planetary and Bull hit the nail on the head. Thanks
Gluber