6 gauge splitter options?

[Mike Hawk]

I'm about ready to pull the trigger on some 6awg THHN to make a run from my main panel in my side garage, thru the attic, and then down to my Tesla garage stall.

The wire will all be run in conduit in the attic. Instead of doing a straight connection from Panel to HPWC I'm thinking of having a junction box in the attic before the drop so I can future proof myself if we ever need a 2nd HPWC run.

So setup will be:
Panel - Junction box -> HPWC 1 (now) / HPWC 2 (maybe future)

Are these the preferred connectors to use?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GDFUDI

I'm assuming if the splitters are in a junction box screwed to a floor joist I'll be to code?

 

[Kirby64]

Any reason why you wouldn't daisy chain the HPWC #2 off of #1? No need for splitters in that case. And there should probably be less wiring running around.

EDIT: Ignore this. I forget the daisy chaining is only for the 'slave' wire and doesn't apply to the main conductors.

 

[iluvmacs]

Yes, those are often called Polaris connectors (based on the big name brand), and it's what I would use. Torque them appropriately!

 

[Fredneck]

I'm about ready to pull the trigger on some 6awg THHN to make a run from my main panel in my side garage, thru the attic, and then down to my Tesla garage stall.

The wire will all be run in conduit in the attic. Instead of doing a straight connection from Panel to HPWC I'm thinking of having a junction box in the attic before the drop so I can future proof myself if we ever need a 2nd HPWC run.

So setup will be:
Panel - Junction box -> HPWC 1 (now) / HPWC 2 (maybe future)

Are these the preferred connectors to use?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GDFUDI

I'm assuming if the splitters are in a junction box screwed to a floor joist I'll be to code?

$11 each??? That seems a bit steep. There's nothing any less expensive?

 

[Kirby64]

$11 each??? That seems a bit steep. There's nothing any less expensive?

Seriously? The wire he's using costs somewhere around $2-3/foot (for 3 conductors). $11 is a drop in the bucket for a reasonably high quality component.

As another person said though, make sure you torque them to spec.

 

[davewill]

I would use a subpanel or load center on the garage wall rather than the Polaris connectors in the attic. That will give you separate cutoffs located right close by, and the ability to configure the two circuits differently if future circumstances call for it. You could mount it right near the wall connector, so the work shouldn't be much if any greater.

If you go with the junction box, make sure that placing it in the attic meets code in your area.

 

[Fredneck]

Seriously? The wire he's using costs somewhere around $2-3/foot (for 3 conductors). $11 is a drop in the bucket for a reasonably high quality component.

As another person said though, make sure you torque them to spec.

It's a $0.10 piece of metal with three set screws and some rubber plugs! I design electronic equipment and I would never pay $11 for such a simple item. They likely sell these for under $1... well, ok, $1.50.

 

[davewill]

It's a $0.10 piece of metal with three set screws and some rubber plugs! I design electronic equipment and I would never pay $11 for such a simple item. They likely sell these for under $1... well, ok, $1.50.

Then you'll have no problem posting a link to such an item.

 

[Fredneck]

Then you'll have no problem posting a link to such an item.

What's the spec?

 

[gfunkdave]

I agree that a small subpanel is a much better solution. Also it may be required in your local code. Typically larger circuits must either go to a single outlet or a subpanel. As a rule of thumb you can't have two 14-50s (for example) on a single circuit.

Since you don't have an immediate need to split the two, if you insist on using a junction box, use an oversize junction box and just leave a coil of slack wire in it. That way you don't need to deal with introducing a new point of failure.

 

[Mike Hawk]

I would use a subpanel or load center on the garage wall rather than the Polaris connectors in the attic. That will give you separate cutoffs located right close by, and the ability to configure the two circuits differently if future circumstances call for it. You could mount it right near the wall connector, so the work shouldn't be much if any greater.

If you go with the junction box, make sure that placing it in the attic meets code in your area.

Hmm, for aesthetic reasons I'm not too keen on putting in a sub panel next to the HPWC. However I wonder if the inspector wouldn't like it that a cutoff isn't near by. However my side garage and Tesla bay are an L next to each other, meaning line of sight it's only like 20 feet from the main panel and the HPWC mounting location so would be super quick and simple to shut off power. Hmm, might still not be to code.

However having a sub panel would be even future proof incase EV #2 isn't a Tesla. I like how HPWCs can share the same 48a depending on needs, so I'd lose that if I go with a different EV #2 though.

Decisions decisions.

Can a 60a main breaker feed a 60a sub panel that has a single 60a breaker??? IE 2 60a breakers on the same line? That seems super unorthodox.

I just need to give an electrician buddy I know a case of beer and have him green light my crazy idea. Lol

 

[davewill]

Hmm, for aesthetic reasons I'm not too keen on putting in a sub panel next to the HPWC. However I wonder if the inspector wouldn't like it that a cutoff isn't near by. However my side garage and Tesla bay are an L next to each other, meaning line of sight it's only like 20 feet from the main panel and the HPWC mounting location so would be super quick and simple to shut off power. Hmm, might still not be to code.

However having a sub panel would be even future proof incase EV #2 isn't a Tesla. I like how HPWCs can share the same 48a depending on needs, so I'd lose that if I go with a different EV #2 though.

Decisions decisions.

Can a 60a main breaker feed a 60a sub panel that has a single 60a breaker??? IE 2 60a breakers on the same line? That seems super unorthodox.

I just need to give an electrician buddy I know a case of beer and have him green light my crazy idea. Lol

I believe that as long as you're configuring it to load share, the 60a feeder with two 60a breakers would be fine. It's possible to use a load sharing Tesla Wall connector with an J1772 car by buying an adapter cable. Also both Clipper Creek and JuiceBox J1772 EVSEs have load sharing versions, so there are multiple paths you can take going forward.

 

[eprosenx]

It's a $0.10 piece of metal with three set screws and some rubber plugs! I design electronic equipment and I would never pay $11 for such a simple item. They likely sell these for under $1... well, ok, $1.50.

Yeah, I can't get over how stupid expensive these things are. It is clearly a matter of what they can get away with... Not a ton of competition as they are not overall used all that often (only apply to large capacity circuits that need to be split or extended). The Polaris Connector is the "classic" one that is common. I have ordered some of these Morris ones (slightly cheaper) but have not put my hands on them yet (they got shipped elsewhere). I can say the Polaris ones are very high quality.

I agree that a small subpanel is a much better solution. Also it may be required in your local code. Typically larger circuits must either go to a single outlet or a subpanel. As a rule of thumb you can't have two 14-50s (for example) on a single circuit.

Since you don't have an immediate need to split the two, if you insist on using a junction box, use an oversize junction box and just leave a coil of slack wire in it. That way you don't need to deal with introducing a new point of failure.

If you are planning on two Wall Connectors in load sharing mode, there is no reason to need a subpanel. Splitting is it just fine. If you are using receptacles, the NEC says the receptacle must be the only thing on the circuit if used for EV charging. A subpanel might make sense if you had two different EVSE brands that did not load share and that you did not want to run them both back to the main panel directly.

If your reason for load sharing is due to overall load on the main panel, there is nothing to say you can't still run both back to the main panel with full size breakers on each (say 60a) but then set them in load share mode to not draw more than 48a between the two of them. That is a simpler design, but it just depends on available space in your main panel, difficulty of running the wire, how much the wire costs, etc...

Overall, I am hesitant to "future proof" too much since there is a good chance your second car might not be a Tesla, or they will have changed to a new variant of the Wall Connector sharing setup, etc... by that time...

As others have mentioned, if you think you want to split it in the attic, you could just put in a junction box and leave a coil of wire in it. Then later add the Polaris Connectors if you end up splitting the wire. Less cost, and less to fail today...

 

[Fredneck]

Yeah, I can't get over how stupid expensive these things are. It is clearly a matter of what they can get away with... Not a ton of competition as they are not overall used all that often (only apply to large capacity circuits that need to be split or extended). The Polaris Connector is the "classic" one that is common. I have ordered some of these Morris ones (slightly cheaper) but have not put my hands on them yet (they got shipped elsewhere). I can say the Polaris ones are very high quality.

A bus bar would only be $1.00, but it's not insulated. I found other devices for around $4, but I don't know exactly what is required. There seem to be a lot of devices for reducing a 4 gauge wire to four 8 gauge wires. Seems like that is something they do in cars a lot for audio amps or something.

One of the photos for the Polaris connector seemed to show some grease or something in the slot where the wire goes in. I guess that's anti-oxidant if not an image defect. These things are intended to be used inside an electrical box, right?

 

[eprosenx]

A bus bar would only be $1.00, but it's not insulated. I found other devices for around $4, but I don't know exactly what is required. There seem to be a lot of devices for reducing a 4 gauge wire to four 8 gauge wires. Seems like that is something they do in cars a lot for audio amps or something.

One of the photos for the Polaris connector seemed to show some grease or something in the slot where the wire goes in. I guess that's anti-oxidant if not an image defect. These things are intended to be used inside an electrical box, right?

Yes, that is anti-oxidant grease for aluminum wires (does not hurt or help copper wires).

Here are some pictures of Polaris brand connectors I just bought from Amazon last week.

 

[ambudriver03]

So setup will be:
Panel - Junction box -> HPWC 1 (now) / HPWC 2 (maybe future)

Are these the preferred connectors to use?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GDFUDI

I'm assuming if the splitters are in a junction box screwed to a floor joist I'll be to code?

I'm using this box to hold an extra loop of 6/3 cable in case i decide to change the location of my outlet; it's the biggest metallic junction box they carried in-stock at my local HD.

this is my photoshop rendering of how it's going to go down (new work in orange)... I'm going to put the J box (mounted between the studds) directly adjacent to the 14-50 outlet in case the outlet gets moved I don't have to splice the wire later. re-pulling wire through conduit is a PITA, but having to add a splice sounds equally terrible too.

Disclaimer: I am not an electrician. Just have an old house whose previous owners neglected maintenance for 40 years...

 

[iluvmacs]

Hmm, for aesthetic reasons I'm not too keen on putting in a sub panel next to the HPWC. However I wonder if the inspector wouldn't like it that a cutoff isn't near by. However my side garage and Tesla bay are an L next to each other, meaning line of sight it's only like 20 feet from the main panel and the HPWC mounting location so would be super quick and simple to shut off power. Hmm, might still not be to code.

However having a sub panel would be even future proof incase EV #2 isn't a Tesla. I like how HPWCs can share the same 48a depending on needs, so I'd lose that if I go with a different EV #2 though.

Decisions decisions.

Can a 60a main breaker feed a 60a sub panel that has a single 60a breaker??? IE 2 60a breakers on the same line? That seems super unorthodox.

I just need to give an electrician buddy I know a case of beer and have him green light my crazy idea. Lol

Yeah, I failed to notice/mention this before... you do need a local cutoff switch for hardwired devices such as the HPWC. You can get around this requirement by having a lockable breaker in the panel instead.

 

[Mike Hawk]

Nice. So something like this guy linked below. To appease the inspector that the HPWC can be locked into the off position for ALL those times I'll be working on it w/o the cover on. /Sarcasm

Eaton CH Circuit Breaker Padlocking Device-CHPLCS - The Home Depot

 

[Rocky_H]

Yeah, I failed to notice/mention this before... you do need a local cutoff switch for hardwired devices such as the HPWC. You can get around this requirement by having a lockable breaker in the panel instead.

That requirement is only if the circuit is above 60A.

 

[jchag]

I'm about ready to pull the trigger on some 6awg THHN to make a run from my main panel in my side garage, thru the attic, and then down to my Tesla garage stall.

The wire will all be run in conduit in the attic. Instead of doing a straight connection from Panel to HPWC I'm thinking of having a junction box in the attic before the drop so I can future proof myself if we ever need a 2nd HPWC run.

So setup will be:
Panel - Junction box -> HPWC 1 (now) / HPWC 2 (maybe future)

Are these the preferred connectors to use?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GDFUDI

I'm assuming if the splitters are in a junction box screwed to a floor joist I'll be to code?

That’s what I used I have a 70 amp line with two linked Tesla wall chargers