6th drive unit replacement and more

[mknox]

FWIW, I'm on my 3rd DU and it may be going in for its 4th in a couple of weeks.

After my last DU replacement, the car developed a horrible dual "clack-clack" sound any time you went between acceleration and re-gen. I stopped by my local SC and a mechanic went for a ride in the car. We weren't even out of the parking lot and he said turn around, I know what that is. He said it had something to do with the wheel hubs. I took 3 weeks to schedule it in, and when I got it back, it was silent for about 3 days and then the noises came back. I returned again and this time the service manager came with me for a ride. He even took a turn driving it. He said it sounds "more serious" than wheel hubs but again, I have to wait nearly a month to schedule it in. I guess I'll find out when it goes back in August.

 

[KJD]

mknox, How many miles on your car?

 

[TaoJones]

Did you inspect for frozen brake pads?

I was thinking my rotor/s were warping... and was ready to change them.. because I was getting pulsations. Then I checked and 3 out of 4 inside brake pads were frozen in place because of encrusting of road grime. Only the outside pads were doing any work ... and in retrospect ... that's why my stopping distances and stopping power were declining. Ever so subtly over time that you don't really notice. Especially on an EV where you mostly regen. Until one day you need the stopping distance, and hey! why is the car not biting !?

Once the pads were unstuck and cleaned up (and I applied a little no-seize compound around the sliding edges)... like magic! No more pulsations, instant braking response, short distances, great grab.

No longer was only one side of the rotors being used for friction. Calipers work much better when they pinch the disc from both sides, rather than "lean one pad against one side". Heating up the rotor on one side only... that will probably eventually lead to real warp.

I had been driving for probably a year with less than 50% braking power available.

So, it's worth a check, and could explain why replacing rotors over and over again is not going anywhere. Maybe it's not a rotor problem?

Here's the thing... my car passed its annual service while the pads were frozen! The car was driven and got a check for brakes. It's the kind of problem you don't notice unless you're driving fast and need to brake hard on a hiway. So the city test Tesla does, won't necessarily catch this problem. A visual inspection cannot be made reliably enough to see frozen inside pads. You have to take the calipers off and then it becomes pretty apparent.

Getting your head around and looking at the inside side of the rotor you might notice a different appearance - mine were blotchy and "cold" looking. Still streaked in arcs like you'd expect but not as shiny as the outside side was. Using a mirror would be a good quick check idea instead of stuffing your head into the wheelwell.

As part of tire change-over for seasons (2 x per year), I now remove the brake calipers and inspect pad thickness and mobility.

I fixed this problem in my garage, for free. Which is what I like to do with cars I own, if I can. Even if it's on warranty. Gimme the service manual... I'll gladly do my own annual maintenance and pay myself twice as much as what Tesla wants !

Thanks for this informative tale. As luck would have it, I have a SvC appointment next week as the car has been shuddering again for weeks.

Will show the shop foreman this post and ask him about the pads. I believe it's the 3rd set of pads as well so far.

St. Louis did remove and exercise the caliper, but I didn't ask about the pads.

Ideally I'll get a look at the pads this time while the car is elevated.

Thanks again - it would be nice if this recurring theme went away.

 

[mknox]

mknox, How many miles on your car?

Just a tick under 70,000 miles. But very few miles since the last DU replacement and this new problem.

 

[Skione65]

Is there a way to check what Drive Unit Model you have easily? From what I've read the "Q" Model DU is one of the most reliable.

Tesla Model S Drive Unit Replacement by the Numbers

Thanks in Advance.

Ski

 

[David99]

Is there a way to check what Drive Unit Model you have easily? From what I've read the "Q" Model DU is one of the most reliable.

I would have to look. I didn't keep track on my 5 previous DU replacements.

There are different issues with the DU and sometimes they get confused. There are noises under load and higher speeds. There is an electrical high pitched noise at lower speeds and load. There is the clunking sound when load changes from acceleration to regen. The electrical noise is what keeps coming back in my car.

 

[David99]

Quick update. Costa Mesa Service center fixed my car in just one day. The invoice shows a drive unit number ending with a G. I don't know if that means anything because I don't have the invoices of the other times when the DU was replaced so I don't know if I had a G before or not. Right now it's as silent and smooth as it gets. They also fixed the fishtailing. But again, that's what happened each time I brought my car in. It came back silent and great, but the problems came back again and again. Fingers crossed this will be the last time.

 

[srvan1]

Qngers crossed this will be the last time.

Good luck, keep us posted!

 

[David99]

The frustration continues. Just as predicted, the fishtailing is back after just 3 weeks. This has been the 5th unsuccessful attempt to fix this issue. I wrote an email to Tesla and CCed my local Service center, but no response. Called today and the person said, let's make an appointment and see what the problem is. When I told him that that's what we have been doing over and over again he didn't have any alternatives and the best he could do is give me an appointment in 3 weeks from now.

I'm seriously pissed.

 

[KJD]

The frustration continues. Just as predicted, the fishtailing is back after just 3 weeks. This has been the 5th unsuccessful attempt to fix this issue. I wrote an email to Tesla and CCed my local Service center, but no response. Called today and the person said, let's make an appointment and see what the problem is. When I told him that that's what we have been doing over and over again he didn't have any alternatives and the best he could do is give me an appointment in 3 weeks from now.
I'm seriously pissed.

Call Tesla corporate number and let them know what is going on.

 

[ggnykk]

Mine is an early 2014 model. It's not even a P and I drive rather relaxed so I doubt it's a stress related issue with the drive unit. I would say it's the inverter as the sound has a very 'electric' character. I'm not sure if they use refurbished drive units or new ones.

I'm just so frustrated because I feel stuck with a car that has an issue that Tesla won't fix. I know newer cars don't seem to have the noise issue any more but that makes me even more upset knowing that Tesla did address the issue but is unable or not willing to apply the same fix to it's old customers.

I have been to a total of 4 difference service centers with these issues. It can't be just the lack of skills with some mechanics working at one location.

I wrote a detailed letter to Tesla. I hope I get a response.

why dont you just sell your car? or ask Tesla to give you a good trade-in deal, so you can get a new Tesla.

 

[KZKZ]

The frustration continues. Just as predicted, the fishtailing is back after just 3 weeks. This has been the 5th unsuccessful attempt to fix this issue. I wrote an email to Tesla and CCed my local Service center, but no response. Called today and the person said, let's make an appointment and see what the problem is. When I told him that that's what we have been doing over and over again he didn't have any alternatives and the best he could do is give me an appointment in 3 weeks from now.

I'm seriously pissed.

The SC wants to repeat the same behavior and expect a different outcome....gives new meaning to Tesla's Insane mode.

Understand your frustration. I think this is a downside to having the factory and the dealer be the same entity. I can't image Lexus HQ standing by while this was happening a some Lexus dealership.

The 3 week delay in getting an appointment is also troubling.

 

[qwk]

The frustration continues. Just as predicted, the fishtailing is back after just 3 weeks. This has been the 5th unsuccessful attempt to fix this issue. I wrote an email to Tesla and CCed my local Service center, but no response. Called today and the person said, let's make an appointment and see what the problem is. When I told him that that's what we have been doing over and over again he didn't have any alternatives and the best he could do is give me an appointment in 3 weeks from now.

I'm seriously pissed.

I'm not surprised, and if I were you I wouldn't count on a Tesla SC to fix the problem. It sounds crazy, but complex problems are out of their league. They will sell you a new car though...

 

[David99]

I'm not surprised, and if I were you I wouldn't count on a Tesla SC to fix the problem. It sounds crazy, but complex problems are out of their league. They will sell you a new car though...

I think you are right, they are not able to help. I don't want to pay for a new car. I won't eat up the huge loss in value over the first 2.5 years and pay for a new one just because they can't get it right. I'm not taking a loss for their inability to make my car go straight when accelerating.

 

[qwk]

why dont you just sell your car? or ask Tesla to give you a good trade-in deal, so you can get a new Tesla.

ummm yeah. A company that insists on a service/parts monopoly, and can't fix their cars. Sign me up.....

 

[qwk]

I think you are right, they are not able to help. I don't want to pay for a new car. I won't eat up the huge loss in value over the first 2.5 years and pay for a new one just because they can't get it right. I'm not taking a loss for their inability to make my car go straight when accelerating.

Unfortunately I'm in the same boat. They havent been able to fix the mechanical problems that the car was delivered with when new. Have to take care of it myself.... Sad.

 

[KZKZ]

I think you are right, they are not able to help. I don't want to pay for a new car. I won't eat up the huge loss in value over the first 2.5 years and pay for a new one just because they can't get it right. I'm not taking a loss for their inability to make my car go straight when accelerating.

agree with your approach 100%, customers shouldn't have to make up for a companies shortcomings

 

[ecarfan]

I think you are right, they are not able to help. I don't want to pay for a new car. I won't eat up the huge loss in value over the first 2.5 years and pay for a new one just because they can't get it right. I'm not taking a loss for their inability to make my car go straight when accelerating.

David, I think you need to escalate your issue up the corporate ladder. A letter (an actual print letter) to the VP of North American Sales would be a good idea. Other people on TMC have written to the higher ups and gotten results.

You certainly should not try to trade it in for a new Tesla. They should be able to fix your car.

 

[Canuck]

For what it's worth I got my RWD 85 on March 7, 2014, same month as you, and same vehicle, and no drive unit problems at all with over 52,000 km or 32,000 miles. It almost seems as if lucky though from all the posts I have read.

 

[neroden]

You definitely need to escalate up the corporate ladder. There is something non-obvious, and dangerous, wrong with your car. Fremont engineering ought to be looking at it personally to figure out what it is. It may give them important information on a subtle failure mode which might crop on on other cars *later*.

If they can't figure out what's wrong, they need to refund your money or give you a replacement car because you got an actual lemon. There are always a few...