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$724 for TPMS sensor?

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It seems like the best plan is to buy 4 new sensors, and replace them when I replace the tires.

The issue I have now is that my 2023 Model X just got delivered, and now I want to sell the Model S. My rear tires only have a few thousand miles left on them before they need to be replaced, but I'm wondering if my best option is to just pay tire rack to replace all 4 sensors so I can sell the car without the TPMS warning. That probably nets me more money than trying to explain to a prospective buyer that "yeah, there's a TPMS issue, but it'll only cost a little more to fix when you change the tires." It feels inefficient, but probably what I need to do.
 
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It seems like the best plan is to buy 4 new sensors, and replace them when I replace the tires.

The issue I have now is that my 2023 Model X just got delivered, and now I want to sell the Model S. My rear tires only have a few thousand miles left on them before they need to be replaced, but I'm wondering if my best option is to just pay tire rack to replace all 4 sensors so I can sell the car without the TPMS warning. That probably nets me more money than trying to explain to a prospective buyer that "yeah, there's a TPMS issue, but it'll only cost a little more to fix when you change the tires." It feels inefficient, but probably what I need to do.
Yes you need to fix it to sell it and with only a few thousand left on rubber sounds like you will have to anyway.
 
Yes you need to fix it to sell it and with only a few thousand left on rubber sounds like you will have to anyway.
I wasn't sure if I should replace the rear tires. They have like 20% of their tread left, and tires are $500 each (before tax and installation). Two tires is a noticeable %age of the car's $14k blue book value, and it's unclear how much a potential buyer will value new tires.
 
i don't get it, how much op expect to pay? sensor oem is $95 each.. labor probably $200 install
that's $600 + tax + diagnose $100 labor. actually that's cheap compare to other dealer rate is $250/hr
if money tight, don't go to tesla service center expect to get free work for out of warranty Tesla.
it is 2012 and tpms battery only last average 5yrs
i attached proof, so you know im not b.s
To answer your question: I was expecting to be told that the right rear sensor needs a new battery, so it's $5 in parts + $70 labor. or maybe I was thinking it would be a replacement of a sensor for like $140 total. I wasn't expecting they'd need to replace all 4 sensors: surely they didn't all fail at the same time.

I guess the general wisdom in this thread is that there's no way to tell which of the 4 has failed, which seems unfortunate.
 
To answer your question: I was expecting to be told that the right rear sensor needs a new battery, so it's $5 in parts + $70 labor. or maybe I was thinking it would be a replacement of a sensor for like $140 total. I wasn't expecting they'd need to replace all 4 sensors: surely they didn't all fail at the same time.

I guess the general wisdom in this thread is that there's no way to tell which of the 4 has failed, which seems unfortunate.
Lol this is why I shouldn't be on this forum. Reading this post make my iq drops.
 
I wasn't sure if I should replace the rear tires. They have like 20% of their tread left, and tires are $500 each (before tax and installation). Two tires is a noticeable %age of the car's $14k blue book value, and it's unclear how much a potential buyer will value new tires.
Buyers expect tires so you won’t get your money back. Have you tried that Tesse app? You can check tire pressure on it so I was just wondering if the app would show all not reading (if so it’s the computer not the sensors) or maybe just one. There’s no battery in a sensor. And if you check tire status in the car does it show all four won’t read or just one. I assume you’ve made sure each wheel is at required pressure. If the car is only worth 14k I would just tell the buyer a sensor is out.
 
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I bought some "pre-programmed" sensors on amazon , and took them to Skip's Tires.
They told me $20 per tire to install them, and they could probably figure out which sensor was failing.
I got a call later. The left rear sensor battery was dead, but the other 3 sensors were good. They also said that while the outside of the rear tires looked like there was tread left, the inside was completely bare, and I needed new rear tires. So, I got some new tires from them and they replaced the sensors "for free".

(This is a standard wear pattern for my car. I asked before and they said that the camber could not be adjusted. I should have been more careful to check the inside of the tire instead of just the easy to see outside when earlier saying that I had 20% left).

Anyway, replacing the rear sensors didn't fix the TPMS stuff, so I asked them to replace the front sensors, too, and they did that for $40. Still the same result.

So, let me talk more about the TPMS failure. Before I brought it to Tesla service, there was a consistent message:
"Tire pressure monitoring system fault. Pressure sensor fault may clear next drive."
After I brought it to service, that message has not appeared. Instead the car is always trying to "reset" the sensors. 10 minutes into any drive, a message pops up saying that the reset failed and offers me the option to "Cancel" or "Retry". If I choose "Cancel", no message shows the rest of the drive. If I choose "Retry", I get the same message in 10 minutes. This was happening before I replaced the sensors and is now happening the same way after I replaced them.

So, I guess I need to go back to Tesla service. The good news is that this time I have a new car, so I won't be missing a car for a week if the service center takes a week to fix the problem.
 
Any quality tire repair shop, such as Discount Tire, will do. I suspect if they do not have them in stock it will only take a couple of days to get them and can be installed in about one-hour. In the future never take your car to a Tesla SC unless you have no other option, especially for anything having to do with tires, alignments, etc.
A lot of shops stock clonable/programmable Autel MX or Schrader sensors so as not to have to stock dozens of different or overnight for every customer.
 
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To answer your question: I was expecting to be told that the right rear sensor needs a new battery, so it's $5 in parts + $70 labor. or maybe I was thinking it would be a replacement of a sensor for like $140 total. I wasn't expecting they'd need to replace all 4 sensors: surely they didn't all fail at the same time.

I guess the general wisdom in this thread is that there's no way to tell which of the 4 has failed, which seems unfortunate.
No, a TPMS scan tool one can read each wheel to determine where the failure is. However if all sensors are from the same production lot they will likely be in similar failure state.
 
My antique 2023 got the Infotainment upgrade. From that day TPMS never worked. I have OEM 2012 SENSORS. THE SERVICE ctr gave me bill for $700. I took car home. I've found the 00-C senors he showed me. I just found out the TPMS control module has to match. I just ordered it off ebay.
It's a shame the SC lies about everything. A year ago , arguing about the TPMS. They give me invoice for $20000. My pack and motor are bad. Pure BS.
The SC said motor has water in it. Really. It's installed may 2019. Pack installed Dec 2021. My SC is horrible. I've driven 10,000 miles since they told me pack and motor were bad. Can u imagine what non car folks do??????
 
Since upgrade my system has not worked. I wrote HQ Fremont. Again and again. It's the software. Not rearward compatible. I bought $500 tpms analyzer they use. My senors were perfect. I read every car in SC parking lot. Manager comes out with new senor says it will be 700 to get 4. I took pictures and left. I have all 4 new senors as of yesterday. AND tpms module controller that matches. I will try to get pictures
Here is part numbers1034602-00-C. Hopefully clear enough for us to read????
 

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I remember that the tire pressure system on the earlier cars was quite problematic. Perhaps Tesla is not offering a "quick and dirty get it done to sell the car" service. Instead they are upgrading your system to a later, and better, system.
 
Here brand new OEM senors that would not read by new software, even thought the analyzer read them perfectly.
The Autel MX sensors have to be coded to the vehicle. If coded to the wrong vehicle I think you can re-code the same sensor to a different model Tesla. I have never re-coded a used Autel MX sensor, only coded new sensors. Most recently to an F-150 where I read the ESNs from the truck via OBD-II then created 4 new sensors created as clones of the original sensors so the truck didn’t really know anything changed.

The Tesla TPMS control unit may not be plug-n-play. I don’t know what has to be done for the central software to know to look for and read your new unit.

A TS-508 is perfectly capable and much less than $500.
 
Guess what. I was told Friday to Google Tesla Service Bulletin. I did. Found SB-15-17003, R2; SB 15-17-003 R4; SB-15-17-009 R1. . All covering cars with the wrong parts in them. Baolong. Should be Retrofited with Continental TPMS sensors, module controller and software to match. Of which I had none of. I installed the -C sensors. Didn't fix errors. So took car apart IAW SB. Guess what. No Continental module controller. Zero.
So, my SC is either stupid or lying. Or both?? Service manager shows me -C and says this will fix the problems. No it won't.
Look at title of the SB
 

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I think I have read through all the posts about TPMS modules.
My situation:
2012 Signature - I do not have the individual psi readings, just an over-all warning message, so a Gen 1 system. (At this time, I do not want to spend the $ to upgrade to the Gen 2 Continental system)
Original wheels I suspect came with and still have the Tesla branded BaoLong 1010938-00-B 433MHz sensors. Hard to believe that batteries have lasted this long, but I am not the original owner of this car either as it was a CPO.

I was able to pick up some brand new take-offs (wheels and tires) for a song, and finally got them mounted as the other tires had finally run their course.
The new rims did not come with TPMS sensors, so after putting them on, and getting tired of seeing the TPMS error messages, I decided to get sensors installed.

This was after reading through ( I think) all the TPMS articles here on TMC.
Using the info here, and also from re-sellers online, it was either get the Bao Long (or the Tesla version of BaoLong) for $400, or use an aftermarket that was specified by several online providers and eventually what I used at my local Discount Tire -- the 433Mhz Huf - BaoLong P/N 1010938-00B (also listed as a BHSensor UV4040) [Did Huf and BaoLong merge to become BaoLong Huf Sensor -> BHSensor?]
Others here on TMC listed success with the ITM on AMZN. There are comments specifically stating success the early MDL Ss, complete with pics)


Discount Tire installed them, used their handheld TPMS diagnostic device to set them up to the car.
But when using the Tesla reset menu item, the would not reset. They went through the scenario 4 to 5 times. They stated that they perform this service on Teslas almost daily, and have not had this problem. The store Mgr took over the service, made several calls - bottom line they still do not work. In their defense, they did not charge me anything for the parts or labor.
Things I have tried:
  • Hit TPMS reset and then drove on the highway at 55+ plus for 30 mins - no change
  • Hard re-boot (two thumbwheel) boot - no change.
  • New S/W 2023.6.8 with re-boot - no change
  • Clicked on the button to change wheel type (suggested that this may help or has helped others). It did change the picture on the screens and my phone app, but now the button is greyed-out and I have 21s" listed instead of 19s". No change, and not sure what wheel size the car thinks it has.
So now I am back to where I was at the beginning: canceling the TPMS sensor error warning, then having eventually the error message showing up on the dash.
Any ideas or suggestions?
1. How to get the "wheel Change" button back to active.
2. TPMS solution?

Thanks in advance.
 
Go back to your shop and ask them to read your new sensors with their handheld tool. New sensors have to be woken from hibernation, will not do it on their own. A 125 kHz “clicker” can be used, a real TPMS scan tool will automatically send the 125 kHz burst to wake a sensor. Old designs use a donut magnet around the valve stem to do the same thing.

Discount Tire did not use their handheld device to set the sensors to the car because the Model S does not have an OBD-II port.

Autel MX sensors can clone the original sensors (if you still have them) so the vehicle doesn’t know the sensors were replaced. $130/4 at Amazon. Worst cast $250 for the TS-508 to code the sensors.

Many shops use Autel sensors because they only have to stock metal and rubber stems. One sensor for all.

One hitch is the Model S does not have an OBD-II port so the independent shops will not have a means of writing new sensor ESNs to the Model S if self-learning does not work.

Another thing: bring an original wheel and sensor to the shop. Ask them to read that one. If the sensors they installed are compatible with your car they should be able to read old and new with no setting changes on their scan tool.
 
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Go back to your shop and ask them to read your new sensors with their handheld tool. New sensors have to be woken from hibernation, will not do it on their own. A 125 kHz “clicker” can be used, a real TPMS scan tool will automatically send the 125 kHz burst to wake a sensor. Old designs use a donut magnet around the valve stem to do the same thing.

Discount Tire did not use their handheld device to set the sensors to the car because the Model S does not have an OBD-II port.

Autel MX sensors can clone the original sensors (if you still have them) so the vehicle doesn’t know the sensors were replaced. $130/4 at Amazon. Worst cast $250 for the TS-508 to code the sensors.

Many shops use Autel sensors because they only have to stock metal and rubber stems. One sensor for all.

One hitch is the Model S does not have an OBD-II port so the independent shops will not have a means of writing new sensor ESNs to the Model S if self-learning does not work.

Another thing: bring an original wheel and sensor to the shop. Ask them to read that one. If the sensors they installed are compatible with your car they should be able to read old and new with no setting changes on their scan tool.
The Discount folks tried to use their tool by holding next to the valve stem.
After several iterations as I described above, the store Mgr called their HQ to get more info.
Their suggestion was to try to configure the sensors to a 2013 Mdl S - which I believe to be the same Gen 1 TPMS config. Kinda made sense to try it. By then, when the mgr tried to do this, he said the sensors had gone to "sleep", and the only way to wake them was to deflate the tires all the way. This seemed like a weird answer to me.

At this point, it had been 2 hours, an hour of it trying to get them recognized. I had to leave. He refunded my $, and I went on my way.

Maybe I will take it to another Discount Tire and see what they can do.
Someone else recommend going to a Tesla SC to have them perform the relearn.
 
The Discount folks tried to use their tool by holding next to the valve stem.
After several iterations as I described above, the store Mgr called their HQ to get more info.
Their suggestion was to try to configure the sensors to a 2013 Mdl S - which I believe to be the same Gen 1 TPMS config. Kinda made sense to try it. By then, when the mgr tried to do this, he said the sensors had gone to "sleep", and the only way to wake them was to deflate the tires all the way. This seemed like a weird answer to me.

At this point, it had been 2 hours, an hour of it trying to get them recognized. I had to leave. He refunded my $, and I went on my way.

Maybe I will take it to another Discount Tire and see what they can do.
Someone else recommend going to a Tesla SC to have them perform the relearn.
I have an Autel TS-508 which has no trouble reading my December 2013 built Model S TPMS sensors.

That I know of, TPMS sensors never re-hibernate. They will sleep when not rolling, but wake on rolling or when the 125 kHz “clicker” burst is heard. A TPMS scan tool will issue the 125 kHz burst when initiating a read.

Some first generation 2007 era TPMS sensors required a donut magnet to wake from manufacturing hibernation. Modem sensors use a 125 kHz burst.

I think your DT tech tried to read your sensors as if they were the correct sensors for your car. If his tool is set to “Tesla Model S 2013“ it will not read a different sensor which speaks a different protocol. So I think the wrong sensors were installed. This is also why your car can not detect the sensors.

Ideally you need one of the original sensors to compare against. Then one can read that sensor with the scan tool. And then attempt to read the sensors in your mounted wheels without making changes in the tool settings. This would demonstrate both sensors are speaking the same protocol. At this point I do not think you have the correct sensors.