advice: what should I offer for this 2016 S 70 transferable SC01?

[RIB-JIG]

I don’t think you’re gonna have a lot of competition for this bad boy.

Fingers crossed.
But if I first offer $32K-34K as advised here, & buyer drops most recent
AutoTrader price from $41.5K to, say $36-37K, does another buyer swoop in....one ponders.

 

[BrownOuttaSpec]

Fingers crossed.
But if I first offer $32K-34K as advised here, & buyer drops most recent
AutoTrader price from $41.5K to, say $36-37K, does another buyer swoop in....one ponders.

Then count yourself lucky for not overpaying

 

[RIB-JIG]

While the car is VERY clean it is missing a few of the more premium options like...I would put a price that I would be willing to pay about $28k...
If you don't value those items as much as me then I think that maybe $34k-35k just because the car is so clean but I feel that you would be overpaying.

Thanks for important bargaining points.
What I value is SC01 & that its photogenic red.
(will be using in travel stock photos, no need to wrap)
But your $28K has me thinking, start at $30K
& after sale add some features you mentioned...

 

[gaswalla]

I agree with 28k.
I also would be very leery about sc01 status given the misstatements given by seller

 

[WallysRide]

I think you're getting recommendations of 28K because this car lacks features that experienced S owners believe are important (more warranty, longer range, newer battery, air suspension, MCU2, etc.). You, on the other hand, value the low mileage, red, SC01. My guess is that there are other folks out there who would be interested in the 33-35K range for your same reasons.

So if you really want this car for your own personal reasons, I would continue to recommend starting at 32-34K (so as to be within shouting distance of seller's unrealistic price), and then hold firmly in that range. Let seller walk away and then come back to you b/c his price is too high. Inch up during negotiations so that you don't go over 35K. I agree with an earlier poster that 36-37K would be overpaying, even for what you want.

 

[David_Cary]

The battery could die in less than 1 year and you are faced with a $20k repair bill. Low mileage is absolutely no protection. Heat and high charge percentage are enemies. Has this car lived in Florida? Does it have a clueless or shady owner? These things would lower the value for me but like others have said, there are other suckers out there.
It is a common plan to sell the car at 7 years because of the battery issue. The battery may last 15 years but few people want to risk that.
You have to wonder what fool spends $80k on a car and then doesn't drive it. I realize there are lots of fools out there but not sure I want to buy a 7 year old car from them.
The response about the MCU is either ignorant or disingenuous.
How many buyers are buying $30k cars that are 7 years old right now? What is the interest rate on that? Financing a car with a potential $20k bill seems like a bad idea so I don't really think there is that much competition.
I have a 2015 70D (for context) that I bought new.

 

[RIB-JIG]

I also would be very leery about sc01 status given the misstatements given by seller

Thanks for all further responses.
How could it not be SC01 if seller is original owner?

All S 70s delivered first half of 2016 were SC01, right...?

Seller also said this about reducing FUSC times:
"You can now also "precondition" the battery just before charging, and that will also reduce the charge time."
Can anyone comment on this? How much reduction per, say, 30 minutes?
regards EV newbie

 

[BrownOuttaSpec]

Thanks for all further responses.
How could it not be SC01 if seller is original owner?

All S 70s delivered first half of 2016 were SC01, right...?

Yes, it should be if he is the original owner especially since he probably got his car delivered in Dec 2015

Seller also said this about reducing FUSC times:
"You can now also "precondition" the battery just before charging, and that will also reduce the charge time."
Can anyone comment on this? How much reduction per, say, 30 minutes?
regards EV newbie

Precondition is something that all Tesla cars can do. Nothing special about it on this vehicle:
How To Precondition Tesla Battery? (Methods & Benefits)
Preconditioning Your Tesla Battery: The Complete Guide

 

[David_Cary]

Reduction compared to what? The algorithm kept getting slower as far as charging and I suppose it also became more sensitive to battery temp - just like regen got slowly nerfed in lower temps. I don't think preconditioning in Miami counts for a whole lot. Maybe 105 kw peak instead of 100.

 

[jjrandorin]

Thanks for all further responses.
How could it not be SC01 if seller is original owner?

All S 70s delivered first half of 2016 were SC01, right...?

Seller also said this about reducing FUSC times:
"You can now also "precondition" the battery just before charging, and that will also reduce the charge time."
Can anyone comment on this? How much reduction per, say, 30 minutes?
regards EV newbie

I mean, how confident are you that this owner is actually the first owner (and didnt do some sort of account transfer from someone, etc)?

They know enough to try to talk to you about pre conditioning, but unless I missed it in the thread, quoted range as ideal range instead of rated (either by mistake or otherwise) and also somehow quoted the MCU upgrade as done, when it doesnt sound like it is.

I dont own an S, I have a 3 and a Y so am not as knowledgable about these, but several people who are knowledgable are responding in this thread and basically raising red flags. If you go through with this its definitely "caveat emptor". I know I wouldnt, but My risk tolerance is low.

 

[RIB-JIG]

how confident are you that this owner is actually the first owner (and didnt do some sort of account transfer from someone, etc)?

I am con-able as I am used-car-buyer newbie as well as EV newbie.
vin# is posted in offer, right?
doesn't vin# plugged into online app tell how many owners?
thanks in advance regards

 

[RIB-JIG]

how confident are you that this owner is actually the first owner (and didnt do some sort of account transfer from someone, etc)?

Would requesting-getting photo of original bill of sale with ?sensitive? info blacked out prove original ownership?

 

[jjrandorin]

Would requesting-getting photo of original bill of sale with ?sensitive? info blacked out prove original ownership?

The only other feedback I have personally (since you quoted me twice now) is:

I dont own an S, I have a 3 and a Y so am not as knowledgable about these, but several people who are knowledgable are responding in this thread and basically raising red flags. If you go through with this its definitely "caveat emptor". I know I wouldnt, but My risk tolerance is low.

 

[RIB-JIG]

owner of this 2016 S 70 reports:

"Car charged to 237 miles last night.
270 "ideal " miles."

So is this possible for that vehicle?
Ideal = unrealistic constant 50mph?
I'm emailing owner to confirm 237 is RATED setting.
Thanks in advance.

 

[henderrj]

owner of this 2016 S 70 reports:

"Car charged to 237 miles last night.
270 "ideal " miles."

So is this possible for that vehicle?
Ideal = unrealistic constant 50mph?
I'm emailing owner to confirm 237 is RATED setting.
Thanks in advance.

I suppose it's possible, but pretty surprising. You might go to the WK 057 tech site and see what it would cost to get an extended warranty for that battery. They also offer a 100 KWh upgrade for rear wheel drive vehicles now. You could check to see what the cost is. It's over $20,000 for my 85, but I'm not sure what it would be for the 70, as they figure the trade-in value of the existing battery. That one certainly is not likely to be as valuable. still, that would tell you a lot. I can't see myself going over 28k on this vehicle either. I think I'd walk away.

Also the owner should have copies of all service records, I don't see any reason they couldn't share those with you.

 

[RIB-JIG]

They also offer a 100 KWh upgrade for rear wheel drive vehicles now. You could check to see what the cost is. It's over $20,000 for my 85, but I'm not sure what it would be for the 70, as they figure the trade-in value of the existing battery.
Also the owner should have copies of all service records, I don't see any reason they couldn't share those with you.

Thanks.
Owner confirmed 237 = rated.
Your mention of 100 KWh upgrade is great to know IMC.
I am seeing this vehicle as "SC01 red vessel" which I want obviously at reasonable price
(owner just lowered to $40999 but I am thinking ~$33K to avoid another buyer???)
which, when necessary, I would upgrade = ?much? greater range 100KWh...
As an EV newbie MCU1 should be impressive so MCU1 vs MCU2 don't bother me if MCU1 works properly...
I have asked buyer for original bill of sale evidencing single ownership, confirming transferable SC01, right?
regards

 

[WallysRide]

Right now, your biggest risk of overpaying for this car (which it seems you clearly want) is yourself, as suggested by all the questions you have been asking for how to bid on it. If you want the car at a reasonable price, you have to bargain hard and not worry about any other buyers who may be out there. If you want a reasonable price, you have to be willing to walk away.

 

[RIB-JIG]

...all the questions you have been asking...If you want a reasonable price, you have to be willing to walk away.

Thanks.
Am holding back offer. Not requesting test ride until price drops ~$37K-36K
as I'm planning in advance to only make offer AFTER test ride;
(unless buyer directly asks what I would offer -- cash buyer)
waited through $46.5K ==> $43.5K ==> $41.5K ==> $40K now
asked seller lots of questions as advised, too. Still waiting on some answers...
a. test ride -- photograph screens advised in this thread
b. wait 1-2 days
c. make "final" offer ~$33.5K
with list of reasons why...
(seller may know this if someone leaked link to this thread)

 

[WallysRide]

Thanks.
Am holding back offer. Not requesting test ride until price drops ~$37K-36K
as I'm planning in advance to only make offer AFTER test ride;
(unless buyer directly asks what I would offer -- cash buyer)
waited through $46.5K ==> $43.5K ==> $41.5K ==> $40K now
asked seller lots of questions as advised, too. Still waiting on some answers...
a. test ride -- photograph screens advised in this thread
b. wait 1-2 days
c. make "final" offer ~$33.5K
with list of reasons why...
(seller may know this if someone leaked link to this thread)

Here are some reasons to think about doing this a little differently:
-- If you know your final offer, there's no reason to not offer something slightly lower right now, say 32K, to give you some negotiation room (room to inch up through multiple offers);
-- The problem with waiting until seller drops price to 36-37 is that it's more likely that he'll get more interest at that posted price, and by that point, he might be tired of dealing with you. If you try to deal with him now and he starts to realize that the actual price is nowhere near 40, he may want to save himself the trouble of dealing with other people and try to make a deal with you. You don't really know at this point how willing he is to negotiate.
-- Offering a credible cash offer now makes you more attractive to deal with overall. Seller would prefer not to deal with test drives, waiting games, many questions, etc.

If I were in your shoes and wanted to land this car at 33.5, I would offer 32 in cash now, and be prepared for seller to totally brush you off. If you get total brushoff, I would respond, "OK, I understand, my offer still stands for X days (make this no longer than 1 week), let me know if you change your mind." Then walk away and wait. If you get any kind of counteroffer at all, start inching up by $500 and hold firm once you get to your final offer.

 

[RIB-JIG]

there's no reason to not offer something slightly lower right now, say 32K, to give you some negotiation room (room to inch up through multiple offers);
-- The problem with waiting until seller drops price to 36-37 is that it's more likely that he'll get more interest at that posted price

Yes, I thought about $32.5K offer with $33.5K ceiling;
But there is reason not to offer ~20% lower than current $41K ask now -- avoid turning so-far-friendly discourse into debate...?
What I did before & should do again -- ask to be informed 24 hrs ahead of next price drop...
based on your prediction of others responding to $37K, I might make my ~10% lower offer then preceded by test ride...