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I was thinking about this over coffee. Anybody who is considering spending $400 for the Macsboost kit could DIY this for next to nothing. I need somebody to confirm the relationship between the spacer thickness and the camber, but I don't have a refresh X. If anybody is in the Bay area I'd be down to shim and measure the camber and toe values so we can share the data freely.

Some notes:
- Another member has already confirmed the $400 shims are off the shelf 2.9mm (approx 1/8").
- Factory hardware appears to be M12

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To do this at home you will need four M12 (metric, so the nominal diameter is 12mm) washers, approx thickness of 3mm; 1/8" is a close standard equivalent. A correctly sized washer will work in pinch.

If we can measure the factory arm's flange, I can draw a simple square part that others can customize for their desired thickness, if they want to hit a target alignment. There are plenty of shops that will mill these for you

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Quick mock up with a non-standard thickness that I priced through Xometry. I quoted laser cut 6061 below but other materials are available for an additional cost. Grade 5 Titanium will double the price...to a whopping $11.

If you are happy with the alignment from the 1/8" thickness there is no reason to have a spacer machined.

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Of course, the cost goes way down with volume and we can do cool things like anodize or powdercoat. There are also other manufacturing options available with volume.

If none of these options speak to you grab some 1/8" stock, a hacksaw, and a drill!
 
Thanks @ZuleMYP for confirming the measurements.

As promised, here is the model and print that anybody can fork to their liking. You'd only really need the model if you wanted to machine a non-standard thickness.

A few things to note about the part: I've increased the diameter of the M12 clearance hole and added an optional 1/8" radius around the part. The tolerances on this part are pretty much a football field 😂

View attachment 974528



If you are able to measure your camber and toe before and after, please contribute your information to this thread!
This is a very useful thread! I am looking to get my first Tesla, the X, and wasn't looking forward to an additional $500 with the purchase. This is a stupidly simple idea. I love it.
 
So this is a simple cheap camber fix assuming all else is standard, but not really correcting the drivetrain half-shaft angles and shudder as lowing links/bracket will do.

And if you go with lowering links (N2ITIVE) or brackets (UP) the camber will likely still be outside the correction these shims provide correct?
 
So this is a simple cheap camber fix assuming all else is standard, but not really correcting the drivetrain half-shaft angles and shudder as lowing links/bracket will do.

And if you go with lowering links (N2ITIVE) or brackets (UP) the camber will likely still be outside the correction these shims provide correct?
I can't speak for the X, but on my S, I used the Macsboost shims and it got my rear camber well under negative 2 degrees in the low position. My previous rear tires were gone in 5k miles. My next set had 3k miles and everything was wearing great. I then went with square 20" wheels.

I had very little front vibration in the 38-42 mph range. When I went with the track pack brakes on my MS Plaid and it is totally gone now. I went with the 20's to go with my track pack brakes. My refreshed MS LR never had any vibration at all.
 
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Is there any disadvantages to shimming this yourself (ie. warranty etc.)?
All about the same IMO, non-OEM part.

If they can prove it caused an issue or related to a part failure they will either will not touch it or charge the going rate for the repair in my experience.

Not too worried about negatives in this case... it either corrects fully or close enough the extra factory camber or not.

Just figured I'd try something purpose built to spec vs just winging it. 🤷‍♂️
 
All about the same IMO, non-OEM part.

If they can prove it caused an issue or related to a part failure they will either will not touch it or charge the going rate for the repair in my experience.

Not too worried about negatives in this case... it either corrects fully or close enough the extra factory camber or not.

Just figured I'd try something purpose built to spec vs just winging it. 🤷‍♂️
I'm going to drive over to ngng and ask him to help me then once I take delivery 😆
 
Is this a problem for the front too?
All about the same IMO, non-OEM part.

If they can prove it caused an issue or related to a part failure they will either will not touch it or charge the going rate for the repair in my experience.

Not too worried about negatives in this case... it either corrects fully or close enough the extra factory camber or not.

Just figured I'd try something purpose built to spec vs just winging it. 🤷‍♂️
I would argue that we are not winging it. When I get my car I will set the height, shim it and measure the final camber.
 
For those doing this just note the toe changes a little with the shim. The macsboost shims explain how much toe to correct to match it up before/after. Since this is slightly different someone needs to figure that adjustment out and share it.

The best way to set toe is to actually measure, but most people are not willing to spend the time to do so. The Macboost instructions are not precise or repeatable either, they simply tell you to turn the adjuster 3/4 of a turn. The resulting toe adjustment is relative to the original alignment. Macboost makes the assumption the OEM toe is set from the factory.