Anymore issues with it killing the front battery. Mine without the extra battery kills the car in around 3 to 5 hrs. When it's off.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Amp and subwoofer install on the new Li-ion 12/15.5v AMD systems?
- Thread starter sean48238
- Start date
unclebnz
Member
Yes. I would say. I shut my tesla down with that same setup. The only thing I could tell u to try is running to the front battery as oppose to the penthouse. Maybe it will work by doing it that way but no guarantees. There are other people that have done stuff with resistors and relays but I don't know how to do that.
unclebnz
Member
unclebnz
Member
Im ready to purchase the battery. Can you tell me which one you have. Also how did you wire it? Details please.
Can confirm that I needed an accessory battery.
Can also confirm that connecting directly to the penthouse caused me issues.
I am running a Kicker CXA 800.1 amp, pushing 2 older model Kicker 10" Comp VRs, and the capacitors inside the amp were drawing too much upon 'wakeup' of the car, especially connected to the penthouse, and the car threw a fit. Several times.
I had a similar discussion that you've had with sean48238 on here, along with a few other folks, trying to troubleshoot the issue.
I ended up with an RSV-S6 model battery from XS batteries. Model is here: RSV-S6
They don't sell direct, but instead have suppliers/distributors. Here in Oklahoma, that was limiting.
I ended up purchasing from XplicitAudio.com, here: XS Power RSV-S6
I ran power source from the front 'jump post' contact point under the hood that sits behind the HEPA filter and just above the new low voltage battery, seen here.
I have had 0 issues since the install. Amp is happy. Tesla electronics seem happy.
Is it a pricy setup for the battery? Yes, unfortunately. First-world problem for wanting 'extra' on a nitpicky/finicky car.
Do I think it was worth it? Also yes.
unclebnz
Member
So no special resistors or anything. Just post to battery, battery to fuse, then to amp?
Correct, no special resistors or anything. I considered a battery isolator, but did not end up using one. So far, so good.
Were you using GTO prior to installing your second battery? Thinking about install an Audio Control amp and getting power from the penthouse and using GTO with the sub signal
Just realized you weren't using an LCI or AudioControl amp. GTO is just another word for Signal Sensing
I actually am using an LC2i pro. I wired a button near the driver's seat so I can toggle 12V power on/off to the device, so I actually have it set on audio signal rather than GTO. I can't speak to GTO usage.
In conversation with the CTO of WavTech (another LOC company), one of the previous 2022 software updates (I don't recall which one) seemed to take what was previously a 12V that 'went to sleep and turned off' into a 'constant 12V' source. There have also been reports that with sentry mode enabled, the audio wiring to the speakers may remain 'on' (or carry a voltage at least) that causes the GTO to remain on...thus keeping the amp on, thus draining the battery. I again can't speak to that, since I included the button as part of the install from the get-go. My method is likely over-the-top, but I also never want to be stranded because of a dead battery due to some future software update that changes how the audio equipment behaves. ymmv.
unclebnz
Member
That's good info because I noticed the LC2I doesn't turn off thus may cause a battery drain. Unfortunately my amp and LC2i are mounted in the frunk so I have to run 2 cables to the battery in the trunk. Just ordered the battery today. Im broke from that expensive cost. Hopefully everything works when done
Definitely an expensive purchase! I was also not a fan of needing to include it (there has to be a better/cheaper way, right?!). When I contacted Antigravity about their 16V battery (which is roughly half the cost), they declined to say 'yes' that their battery would work for what I wanted. They were very 'by the book' and wanted to stay on-label for their battery, stating it was really only designed for racing/race car electronics situations. They also didn't have nearly the amount of literature or information about their battery (and % state of charge, for example) compared to XS. It's why I ended up making the purchase that I did. But, the finished product made it worth it! Good luck with your install.
unclebnz
Member
Can’t wait to install the battery. I have a guy custom building my box for my JL10W7. I was trying to get it to fit in the rear well but I wa short space so I’m just having him make a box. I still have a 10 W6 that I might still have him make a box that will fit in the well.
Last edited:
Here's a write-up of my install, in case you want to see how I made the connections. 800W RMS Amplifier install on 2022 model Y with new 15.5V Li-ion battery/AMD system
unclebnz
Member
Been following this thread…. Had a JL Audio amp/subwoofer install last weekend. I too, have the new 15.5V lithium battery, but installer stated for what I had didn’t need a 2nd battery. The shop I went to was from a recommendation from this forum.
Question: how can I tell or monitor battery drain? Is it simply looking at the screen to see if my battery percentage going down quicker than normal?
Question: how can I tell or monitor battery drain? Is it simply looking at the screen to see if my battery percentage going down quicker than normal?
unclebnz
Member
Trust me I learned the hard way. You're going to need that second battery for peace of mind. You can purchase this to watch your battery drain. https://www.amazon.com/Antigravity-...pd_rd_i=B07NSVMY4S&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_rp_1_i
Just a tip. Set the lc2i pro to do audio turn on and u don't need to worry about the battery drain. The audio turn on works much better that the GTO turn on.
