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You got it from Tesla?I have been using a 14-30 adapter since October. I got it from Tesla but had to wait a few days. Definitely better than 110. It's 3 miles/hr of charge vs 16 miles/hr.
You can send an email to [email protected] and I'm pretty sure that they would be able to custom make a 14-30 to 14-50 adapter for you. They made a 14-50 to L6-20 adapter for me for my Nissan EVSE which is working beautifully. The thing to remember is that your Tesla will not know that the circuit only supports 24 amps so you'll need to turn down the current draw from the Tesla. These are home made so obviously these are not UL listed and not to electrical code so you absorb some risk there (which if you're careful about the current pull, is not much of a risk).
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=3085 is the link to the thread on the Nissan Leaf forum discussing these adapters.
The thing to remember is that your Tesla will not know that the circuit only supports 24 amps so you'll need to turn down the current draw from the Tesla. These are home made so obviously these are not UL listed and not to electrical code so you absorb some risk there (which if you're careful about the current pull, is not much of a risk).
consider for a moment that you have set the car to a custom charge value of 24A. A software update arrives and you tell the car to install it at 2 am. By then, the "vampire load" drains the car beneath its "fully charged" threshold. The software installs at 2 a.m., and completes about 3:30 a.m. Because it is a new "major" version with a re-write to the charging code, it loses your custom charge value and resets to the appropriate value for the adapter attached to the car (let's say you're using a 14-50 on the UMC and it resets to 40A). Because the car is below the "fully charged" threshold, it attempts a charge when the car reboots post-update and it overloads your circuit. If your breaker trips, you're protected and it's a minor annoyance. If your breaker doesn't, because you have a Zinsco or FPE panel, for example, your wiring overheats and you can predict the rest.
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This is why NEC requires our electrical infrastructure to assume that the appliances or persons using it have no knowledge of "special" things like FrankenCables. It's why I'm even against things like 10-50P to 14-50R adapters, because even though they're typically safe to use, can result in minor shocks or even broken appliances. It's why 50A plug-and-cord appliances have a 50A plug, require a 50A receptacle, on 50A wire, on a 50A breaker. You don't need to have any knowledge about other limitations..
Or you can do it the way I did it -- the Tesla makes no connection to the neutral blade, so I just cut it off.
You can modify your 14-50 adapter that comes with the car so that it can fit either a 14-30 or a 14-50 receptacle. If you use it in a 14-30, you damn well better be sure to set the current limit in the car down to 24A.
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I am curious though as to how a 10-50 to 14-50 adapter might cause problems assuming that the adapter's electrical contacts were good?
Is there anyway to use hardware to limit current to 24 amps in the above setup? I understand that folks can do it via the 17 inch screen via software, but can it be done with some sort of hardware that goes between the plug and socket??
You can build a 250V, 30A fuse holder or circuit breaker in-line. The problem there, of course, is that you won't be able to charge at 40A when you're plugged in a 50A receptacle, you *always* have to limit current to 24A, instead of just when you're plugged into a 30A receptacle. There is no way to determine whether you're plugged into a 30A or 50A receptacle if you make this modification.
This is what I did but w/o the in-line fuse. I just pulled the 10-30 (hot-hot-ground) outlet and installed a 14-50 (left the neutral unconnected) then set the car to 24A. Only cost $9 for the outlet at Home Depot. Once the 10-30 adapter is available from Tesla I'll swap it all back but for now it's fine and I didn't have a choice. I wasn't about to spend a bundle on rewiring for a few months of UL and manufacturing delay. When I plug in at night I watch the screen to verify it's limiting to 24A and all is well.I'm confused with your answer above. Let's assume a 14-30 Tesla adapter is not available when the car is delivered, so we use the available 14-50 adapter. We install a 14-50R and set the car to charge at 24A. We then install a 250V, 30A fuse holder or circuit breaker inline before the 14-50R. If a software update changes the charge rate to 40A, the 30A fuse blows and protects the wiring. Won't this work and yet allow you to charge at 40A at an RV park by just changing the charging rate to 40A in the software?
You got it from Tesla?
I'm confused with your answer above. Let's assume a 14-30 Tesla adapter is not available when the car is delivered, so we use the available 14-50 adapter. We install a 14-50R and set the car to charge at 24A. We then install a 250V, 30A fuse holder or circuit breaker inline before the 14-50R. If a software update changes the charge rate to 40A, the 30A fuse blows and protects the wiring. Won't this work and yet allow you to charge at 40A at an RV park by just changing the charging rate to 40A in the software?
This is what I did but w/o the in-line fuse. I just pulled the 10-30 (hot-hot-ground) outlet and installed a 14-50 (left the neutral unconnected) then set the car to 24A. Only cost $9 for the outlet at Home Depot. Once the 10-30 adapter is available from Tesla I'll swap it all back but for now it's fine and I didn't have a choice. I wasn't about to spend a bundle on rewiring for a few months of UL and manufacturing delay. When I plug in at night I watch the screen to verify it's limiting to 24A and all is well.
The same can be done with 10-30 and 10-50 plugs, but it should be noted that you should not do this for NEMA 10-30P or 10-50P plugs. This is very important because the 10-series plugs and receptacles do not offer a separate safety equipment grounding conductor, and in the 10-series, the neutral provides this functionality. If you cut the neutral pin off, you will not have a safety ground, and that's very hazardous. If a wire in the car were to fray and the hot wire of the charger were to short to the car's body, a human then becomes the best path to ground for the voltage. If the car is plugged in and a human touches it, he/she will get one hell of a shock.
if you insist upon doing this type of modification, you must only *trim* the blade so it will fit on a NEMA 10 series plug. But, please just buy the adapter.
Is there anyway to use hardware to limit current to 24 amps in the above setup? I understand that folks can do it via the 17 inch screen via software, but can it be done with some sort of hardware that goes between the plug and socket??
I'm confused with your answer above. Let's assume a 14-30 Tesla adapter is not available when the car is delivered, so we use the available 14-50 adapter. We install a 14-50R and set the car to charge at 24A. We then install a 250V, 30A fuse holder or circuit breaker inline before the 14-50R. If a software update changes the charge rate to 40A, the 30A fuse blows and protects the wiring. Won't this work and yet allow you to charge at 40A at an RV park by just changing the charging rate to 40A in the software?
The only time you need to put your own fuse holder in is if you plug something that is under-rated into an outlet with a higher rating, eg, we make an extension code with 10AWG (30A) wire and put a NEMA 14-50 plug on it, but expect to turn the current down to 24A (or we use a connector not rated for 50A elsewhere in the cord).montgom626 referenced adelman's post who talked about modifying the 14-50 you receive from Tesla. You'd have to modify the UMC cord to put an inline fuse holder in there. That would limit you always to the lower charge rate.
You're talking about protecting your home-built extension cord (from your thread) with a fuse holder -- that would provide some protection against your potential failure. That said, keep in mind my insurance warning, it still applies.
[...] your insurance can refuse to pay your claim based on you violating the NEC with a non-listed device.