Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

AP1 ONLY Please -- life after 2018.50.6

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Thanks for more insight.

I knew the 12V being weak can cause more vampire drain but did not consider a bad contactor causing this issue. I suppose a bad contactor would close/open frequently at will?

Knowing now what you are describing, I think I might have the solution since my pack is scheduled for replacement ( see Wiki - Sudden Loss Of Range With 2019.16.x Software ) and that would hopefully fix any contactor issue. While the pack is being replaced, I was planning to ask them to check my 12V battery as well. So, in my case, it looks like both culprits you had mentioned will be out of the picture.


Yes, the failing contactors we're opening and closing frequently, that made me check SMT where I noticed low 12v. I had just replaced the 12v recently.

May your new pack charge fast, and have a long life...
 
After many attempts to get them to READ the the Tesla SB and SL I printed out

Which SB / SL are you referring to? My Internet/Forum search was not successful so far... Or even PM them to me would be much appreciated :)

Yes, the failing contactors we're opening and closing frequently, that made me check SMT where I noticed low 12v. I had just replaced the 12v recently.

Ah, my car is not sleeping at all since quite some time and vampire drain is high. I connected a qtek 12v AGM charger to the connector behind the nosecone and it shows no issues with the 12V. Nevertheless the 12V is quite old and with a lot of miles/camping usage I ordered a 12V replacement AGM and am about to replace it today. Until I've read about your contactor issue I did not realize that it also could come from an issue with the contactors. I've noticed since quite sometime that the contactors are making multiple noises after parking.

So after I've replaced my 12V today and the vampire loss is not going down and/or the car will still not go to sleep, it could origin due bad HV contactors? And one sympton would a low 12V voltage provided by the HV battery? Could you tell how low would be too low?

I'm bound for a resealing of the HV battery as a service recall, I like to point them to the SB / SL and to check the contactors for that same appointment. Thanks a million!
 
Which SB / SL are you referring to? My Internet/Forum search was not successful so far... Or even PM them to me would be much appreciated :)



Ah, my car is not sleeping at all since quite some time and vampire drain is high. I connected a qtek 12v AGM charger to the connector behind the nosecone and it shows no issues with the 12V. Nevertheless the 12V is quite old and with a lot of miles/camping usage I ordered a 12V replacement AGM and am about to replace it today. Until I've read about your contactor issue I did not realize that it also could come from an issue with the contactors. I've noticed since quite sometime that the contactors are making multiple noises after parking.

So after I've replaced my 12V today and the vampire loss is not going down and/or the car will still not go to sleep, it could origin due bad HV contactors? And one sympton would a low 12V voltage provided by the HV battery? Could you tell how low would be too low?

I'm bound for a resealing of the HV battery as a service recall, I like to point them to the SB / SL and to check the contactors for that same appointment. Thanks a million!

My car has an oddity that after a software update, I need to unplug the car and leave it unplugged overnight. If I don't do that, the car never goes to sleep. If I do, it returns to its normal sleep cycle.

I think there is something up with the AC charging circuit that it gets into some kind of state during an update that prevents the car from going to sleep, but the car is forced into sleep when it's unplugged. I've talked to Tesla service about it many times and gave up trying to get them to fix it.
 
Which SB / SL are you referring to? My Internet/Forum search was not successful so far... Or even PM them to me would be much appreciated :)



Ah, my car is not sleeping at all since quite some time and vampire drain is high. I connected a qtek 12v AGM charger to the connector behind the nosecone and it shows no issues with the 12V. Nevertheless the 12V is quite old and with a lot of miles/camping usage I ordered a 12V replacement AGM and am about to replace it today. Until I've read about your contactor issue I did not realize that it also could come from an issue with the contactors. I've noticed since quite sometime that the contactors are making multiple noises after parking.

So after I've replaced my 12V today and the vampire loss is not going down and/or the car will still not go to sleep, it could origin due bad HV contactors? And one sympton would a low 12V voltage provided by the HV battery? Could you tell how low would be too low?

I'm bound for a resealing of the HV battery as a service recall, I like to point them to the SB / SL and to check the contactors for that same appointment. Thanks a million!
It's been a few years, there are multiple SB SL that aided in trouble shooting,
I'll see what I can find.

Contactors clicking often and abnormal sound...click....clickclick.....click....is what I noticed.

Failing contactors is not too uncommon. There is a YT vid about an owner that replaced them himself.
 
  • Like
Reactions: oaito
Update into 2022!
2022.8.10.1 to be exact. Thread here regarding it. Yes, it is V11, so things look different. But the big surprise is Tidal in the MCU1!
I can't believe it. 😁😁 (oh yeah, departure schedule from the app is pretty cool too :)

IMG_2384.JPG

PS: took me a long time to find this thread!
 
Update into 2022!
2022.8.10.1 to be exact. Thread here regarding it. Yes, it is V11, so things look different. But the big surprise is Tidal in the MCU1!
I can't believe it. 😁😁 (oh yeah, departure schedule from the app is pretty cool too :)

View attachment 826520
PS: took me a long time to find this thread!
Ugh. I was hoping they would forget about us and leave us alone.
 
Does it slow down responsiveness of the screen?
Well I’d like to give it a few days to give a truthful answer.
Bad news is Unfortunately the fonts in navigation are smaller, because we all know the developers are in their early 30’s.
But sound quality of streaming Tidal vs. Slacker is worth it. (For me at least) Sounds like going from 64 kpbs to 320 kbps.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: BrownOuttaSpec
I just looked it up and Tidal streams at a very high rate compared to other streaming services
Well that is at home via wifi or Ethernet. I am well aware: I have been a Tidal through Roon customer for years, and the quality through a good streamer rivals that of any high end CD player, as it is lossless ~1000-1100 kbps. So much so that I sold mine. Spotify at home is 320 maximum (at the moment- there were talks of getting high-res but nothing yet)
We will get nothing close to what we get at home over cellular in the car, and of course I am guessing regarding the bit rates, no one really knows, but definitely more quality with the tidal signal. I have read Sirius is variable but typically 64 kbps is all one receives. Sounded like crap when I had it in other cars.
Keep in mind on top of premium audio all my car speakers have been upgraded, a nvx sub added and a light harmonics amplifier. The lesser the quality of components the less likely it would be to notice, but for my ears it is nice to finally hear the potential of these and have streaming possibly as good as the flash drive, maybe better?
 
Had some very negative AP experiences, but don’t want to be a Debby downer just yet. Maybe it will sort itself out after a few more drives. Hmm.
The weirdest part of V11? When someone is in the passenger seat temp button presents itself. It is not there driving solo. Wife was getting quite irritated getting in and out for to verify :)
View attachment 826771View attachment 826772

It's funny that you mention this because earlier today, when driving the car, I had one particular spot of about a half mile where the car was seeking from line to line (left to right) like a 5-year-old was driving it. I all my years of driving all the versions of Tesla autopilot, I had never seen anything quite that erratic. Of course my initial thought was that it had something to do with the firmware update but it worked itself out. It worked fine on the dozen or so occasions (possibly more) I used it prior to that one instance as well as the dozen or so afterwards so I'm hoping it was the exception and not the rule. The real hope is that it was completely unrelated to the firmware update but the fact that you mentioned this makes me think that they might be linked.
 
Had some very negative AP experiences, but don’t want to be a Debby downer just yet. Maybe it will sort itself out after a few more drives. Hmm.
The weirdest part of V11? When someone is in the passenger seat temp button presents itself. It is not there driving solo. Wife was getting quite irritated getting in and out for to verify :)
View attachment 826771View attachment 826772

That's strange. On my car (early 2016 refresh 90D) the passenger temp control is always there. There is an icon that comes on when the seat is empty saying the air bag on that side is off, but that's the only thing that changes.
 
That's strange. On my car (early 2016 refresh 90D) the passenger temp control is always there. There is an icon that comes on when the seat is empty saying the air bag on that side is off, but that's the only thing that changes.
I have "split" off; that is their new name for dual-zone climate. I think it was called sync before. (never used dual climate) Without testing it I would presume with split on both will always show?