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Around 50k budget what you recommend?
- Thread starter Twinrinks
- Start date
PWlakewood
Active Member
I would personally go for P90D or P100D but if performance isnt as big of an issue a 2018 75D is also an option for around 50ish. To be honest you really should go drive some and see what you like. A 90D and 100D are pretty quick if you dont want to pay the premium price for the performance variant. There are lots of options in your price range. Consider how much range and if you need/want AP or Sentry mode.
ucmndd
Well-Known Member
aerodyne
MS LR = Last Car?
dedicatedtek
Member
Are you trying to find something faster for you or her ? Or maybe something faster 'than' her ?
aerodyne
MS LR = Last Car?
2016 MS is within your budget, with Facelift and BWDM. The P means more expensive to maintain wheels and tires. Mine is a non P, but is 4.2 sec to 60 and 155 Mph, plenty fast for most IMO.
Non-P 90D is also noticeably faster than a 75D, so make sure try one of them too. And if ability to update to FSD in the future is important to you, get AF2 equipped car. If you don't care about FSD then AF1 is fine. If ability to use newest features of v10 (e.g. netflix) is important to you, get 2018 75D.
CraZ8
Member
Will be putting my 2015 P85DL up for sale in about a week or two. Ocean blue / cream/black interior Fully loaded, many extras. Transferable free supercharging. 52k miles. Rarely driven in winter, spent its life in a heated garage ( use wifeys Range Rover) just had the 19” wheels painted semigloss black and new Goodyear’s mounted this May. Also had third coat ( since new)of cquartz applied after color correction in August. Will be asking 55k pm me if you would like full particulars
Not sure this is true. Last I checked, an uncorked 75D and a non-P 90D both accelerate to 60 in 4.2. Also—both are great cars. Buy as much car as your 50k will allow and enjoy the drive.... Please return to this thread and let us know what you purchased when the time comes. Good luck.
Cheburashka
Active Member
I've seen mentioned here as a suggestion a 2018 75D. Where did you guys see that in the $50s?
Don't mean to hijack the thread but I think I'm getting to the same choices. I need to stick to low $50s - high $40s and the newest I can get seems to be 2016 facelift 75D with AP1. Alternatively a 2015 85D.
I like the facelift more, I'm ok with AP1 but I can't tell if an older 85D would be better in any way compared to a newer 75D (only difference apart from facelift is 10 more miles rated range on the 85D).
Small side question: I see on occasion on Tesla used S website ads titled and spec'ed as 75D while the picture from the rear shows 60D badge. Does this mean they've upgraded it or most likely a mistake?
Don't mean to hijack the thread but I think I'm getting to the same choices. I need to stick to low $50s - high $40s and the newest I can get seems to be 2016 facelift 75D with AP1. Alternatively a 2015 85D.
I like the facelift more, I'm ok with AP1 but I can't tell if an older 85D would be better in any way compared to a newer 75D (only difference apart from facelift is 10 more miles rated range on the 85D).
Small side question: I see on occasion on Tesla used S website ads titled and spec'ed as 75D while the picture from the rear shows 60D badge. Does this mean they've upgraded it or most likely a mistake?
PWlakewood
Active Member
There is likely very little if any real world range difference between a 2015 85D and a 2016 75D (perhaps not even the 10 miles suggested above) given the added year of battery degradation. When I traded in my 2016 (refresh) 75D a month ago it still charged to 226 miles @ 90% (equivalent of 251 @ 100%) so only down 8 miles from new (@39 months old). In short, get the car you want based on condition, mileage, warranty, options, color, etc as these metrics are in my experience more impactful than wether the battery is an 85 or 75. Good luck.
For real world driving, the non-performance models are still faster than most other vehicles on the road and have faster acceleration than you can use during driving.
When considering your budget for a Tesla, purchasing a new or used Tesla, you should see long-term cost savings from reduced maintenance and fueling costs. Purchasing Tesla (or any EV) likely will cost more upfront - with annual cost savings during ownership.
When considering your budget for a Tesla, purchasing a new or used Tesla, you should see long-term cost savings from reduced maintenance and fueling costs. Purchasing Tesla (or any EV) likely will cost more upfront - with annual cost savings during ownership.
This is the biggest lie out there about the low cost of maintenance with Tesla. You are not going to save anything unless you are lucky to never have an accident/fender bender etc. or you somehow get a perfect car. All those fuel savings will be wiped out in one shot. I can't say about current quality, but you can read here about frequent repairs related to center display screen ($1200?), MCU, suspension repairs, AC repair etc. My point is just don't consider maintenance savings as a major buying factor.
aerodyne
MS LR = Last Car?
Maintenance cost is not the same as accident cost. Most of the other items are covered under the 4 yr, 50k mile offered if you buy used from Tesla.
That said, one should not being buying a Tesla to save money. For that, get a used Volt, Bolt, or Pruis.
The best car to have is the one you have already. Depreciation, Insurance and Loss of Use of Money (No-one ever talks about the latter, imagine your car payment went instead to max out your 401K or IRA, and compound that at 6% for 20 years!) make car ownership a great destroyer of personal wealth.
Want to drive the latest and greatest? Rent on Turo. You can do that for up to 60 days a year, and break even with the cost of buying a new MS Raven.
That said, one should not being buying a Tesla to save money. For that, get a used Volt, Bolt, or Pruis.
The best car to have is the one you have already. Depreciation, Insurance and Loss of Use of Money (No-one ever talks about the latter, imagine your car payment went instead to max out your 401K or IRA, and compound that at 6% for 20 years!) make car ownership a great destroyer of personal wealth.
Want to drive the latest and greatest? Rent on Turo. You can do that for up to 60 days a year, and break even with the cost of buying a new MS Raven.
I should have been more specific but what I meant by accident is indirect cost related to getting stuck in body shop (rental car, spare vehicle). All these means you are spending even more. Yes if you are covered under warranty it's great but once you are out of warranty all those fuel savings will be gone. Either way I don't you will be saving just because it's an EV. Like you said if you are buying to save money there are lots of other great options EV or non-EV.
