Yes that and level of wear are confounds so both have to be controlledhmm, with the different tire pressures between the two tests, I'm not sure you can conclude much.
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Yes that and level of wear are confounds so both have to be controlledhmm, with the different tire pressures between the two tests, I'm not sure you can conclude much.
One set was warmed up from a 5 hour drive and the other set was sitting in 44 degree storage, I can say that it seems to me that the majority of noise was not from the tires and maybe that is why they were so close but I agree it wasn't much of a test.hmm, with the different tire pressures between the two tests, I'm not sure you can conclude much.
This Thread needs an injection of some energy. I'm sure we all haven't given up on improving the sound systems so I've got some info but also a major question.
Potentially valuable and useful to the form might be my solution to using the front wiring harness when you swap out the stock 4-inch drivers for the Infinity reference 4022. If you take a short strand of 16 gauge wire or something like that I'm not exactly sure what the gauge is but it's not heavy duty, and take relatively thin sewing needles you can push them into the copper filament section of the wire and create a essentially a pin harness that goes straight into the factory wiring harness. This has several advantages, including making a very secure connection, and obviating some of the problems associated with attaching the speaker particularly when the wiring harness coming out of the dash is just too damn short. Also, has posted on the other form, have to give credit to flash flood ER who came up with the original idea of replacing the stock drivers with Infinity reference 4022s.... oh, and I've also been able to confirm that you have to move the central dash speaker's wiring loom out-of-the-way, detaching it from the sheet metal pop in clip and then taping it to the front side of the opening so that there's enough room for the larger magnet of the 4022.
Next on the upgrade list is a bit more ambitious and I'm going to try to replace the rear door four inch drivers which are identical to the front dash speakers also with Infinity reference 4022 s. The dicey thing about that is I'll have to cut them out and then create some kind of hot glue attachment method. It's dicey because it's not reversible but, what the heck, no guts no glory!
The other big issue which I'm frankly stunned we have not heard about on the forums is why all of a sudden a music drive with apple lossless files can no longer be loaded by the audio system. I haven't tested MP3s because we don't use them but previously both an SSD and a USB flash drive loaded without incident although it took a long time I get the entire 130 GB registered. Does anybody have any insight into what happened in the last couple of firmware updates that crashed this functionality?
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nice solution. how do the infinity sound compared to stock? you did all 3 in the dash? was going to do mine soon and if all 3 were possible then maybe i need to get another pair. they still on sale?
nice solution. how do the infinity sound compared to stock? you did all 3 in the dash? was going to do mine soon and if all 3 were possible then maybe i need to get another pair. they still on sale?
PL premium is a gap filling polyurethane expanding glue that may be helpful in this situation, hot glue gun is junk so don’t waste your time with thatSorry groovy D I missed the last question. I got mine on Amazon for 49 bucks a pair. Really a good deal considering that these are really well-made and pretty big magnet drivers with a decent range from about 75 Cycles up to 20k Hz. Of course they're really not getting anything sent to them until probably about 200 Cycles. You can tell that they're really barely contributing to the very upper bass because the cones don't move at all or very little anyway at high volume so I suspect they're crossed over at least 12db per octave if not even more aggressively. The soundstage integrates nicely in front of the driver, a bit more so compared to the stock drivers.
I'm actually kind of excited about tackling the rear doors even though I know if I cut them out it's not reversible. So I have to be very confident that I can secure the Infinity replacements and one of the questions I have is whether or not the typical hot glue that you can get for really cheap at the hardware store is going to bond to what looks like some kind of polycarbonate in the inner plastic panels of the door.
I'm going to do a test fitting or in this case a test gluing before cutting the drivers out. There's always Gorilla Glue but that stuff is just a bear to work with. Like I said in the earlier portions of thread I will definitely post Solutions if I find that there is a relatively doable way to get those stock drivers out and the Infinity reference speakers in
PL premium is a gap filling polyurethane expanding glue that may be helpful in this situation, hot glue gun is junk so don’t waste your time with that
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/PL_CA_PREM_tds.pdf
Not sure about this one but the description talks about 5 min cure and good for vibrationsProbably don't need an expanding adhesive but I do need something that cures a little bit quicker. Any suggestions?
That looks super. Thanks much!Not sure about this one but the description talks about 5 min cure and good for vibrations
Quik–Cure 5min Epoxy 9oz Bob Smith Ind. Review and Deals – Bestcovery
can't you just drill holes and glue lag bolts through from the back and some foam rubber surround? I don't think any glue will hold for long especially with the road and speaker vibrations and door closing.
Good question - from my (not great) memory of the rear doors, I believe that the entire driver basket is plastic/sonic welded into the outer door. But I'll have to see when I get is apart tomorrow. If it's just got three weld points (at the normal basket attachment holes), then it should be a breeze to do what you are suggesting . . . .but I'll just have to see, and will for sure post pictures pre-, midway, and final stage.
The cars (we have two Model 3 DMP) both sound really great with just the three front dash drivers replaced. As I looked over the driver complement, its clear that virtually all of the musical fundamentals, outside any bass line, are going to the 7 discrete 4 inch drivers (3 in dash, 2 in rear doors, and two in rear shelf I believe). I think swapping out those (or maybe just 5/7) for the Infinity REF 4022 is maybe the best bang for the buck I've ever seen in a custom mod of a stock (if premium) factory system.
What's next? There's a vigorous debate about whether replacing the stock subwoofer with a Rockford Fosgate 8 incher is really worth doing. Some report substantial improvement, but many question if there is enough power to really make it work optimally. But it's a another cheap and cost effective upgrade if in fact it improves definition. A big problem is the somewhat muddy mid and low bass character. After seeing how much the front mounted 8 inchers vibrate the inner and outer doors (which I suspect is blurring the bass quite a bit), that's likely to be an almost impossible problem to eliminate, even with the install of an aftermarket sub and amp, as the front door woofers are still putting out a lot of mud. Dynamatting heavily the front speaker basket helped, but it's still there.
Too bad we can't do this:
KEF Force Cancelling Woofer Tech in KEF Blades
Our favorite speakers! Has anyone reviewed the new R series? We have a couple older R series pair actually in addition to the Blades, which are incredibleI'm a KEF dealer and these and the drivers in the redesigned R series are great.
Not sure however the drivers are based on the blades and they are a complete redesign. I'm presently using a pair of LS-50 actives and had REF1s before. I'm selling the LS50 Actives as my screen will be in that location, they are amazing and simple with no equipment