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Autocross- SCCA EV-X Class vs. SS

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Redwood sells Ohlin's and house damper kits designed to take the stock springs. Probably your best bet. They can give you several tunning options too.
 
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Redwood sells Ohlin's and house damper kits designed to take the stock springs. Probably your best bet. They can give you several tunning options too.
They may be the best, but they're a bit much for me. BUT, you just reminded me about their FPX Damper Kit, which might be just what I'm looking for! I need to see if there are any class restrictions on the remote adjusters option.
 
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You’re not wrong, but nobody else runs in EVX here and I’m not at Nationals yet.
Are you winning in AS? If not, does it matter if nobody else is running EVX? It's quite expensive to stay in AS and you end up with a worse car both on the track and day to day than you would in EV-X. Just go compete in a PAX class. Plus, more EVX participation is good for the sport and the EV future.
 
Correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t think you can run adjustable height spring perches in street class. Even if you set it the same as stock height? I’ve heard it debated in grid a couple times.

If I wanted to run street class, I’d use koni yellow front and MPP coil over rear shocks. Idk if you can purchase just the rear though.
 
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Are you winning in AS? If not, does it matter if nobody else is running EVX? It's quite expensive to stay in AS and you end up with a worse car both on the track and day to day than you would in EV-X. Just go compete in a PAX class. Plus, more EVX participation is good for the sport and the EV future.
I'm competitive enough and I see a potential path to better performance. Let's see where it goes.
Yeah, helping build enthusiasm for EVs in the motorsports community is important to me. But I think seeing a Tesla in the mix with the GTSes and Z06s in their class is quite compelling.

Correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t think you can run adjustable height spring perches in street class. Even if you set it the same as stock height? I’ve heard it debated in grid a couple times.
Ah, good question. I'm not sure this is current, but the first search result is from a 2015 rulebook: "Adjustable spring perches are allowed, but the spring loadbearing surface must be in the same location relative to the hub as on the standard part. Shims may be used to achieve compliance." Going to look some more. [Edit: It's the same in the 2024 rulebook.]
 
I'm competitive enough and I see a potential path to better performance. Let's see where it goes.
Yeah, helping build enthusiasm for EVs in the motorsports community is important to me. But I think seeing a Tesla in the mix with the GTSes and Z06s in their class is quite compelling.


Ah, good question. I'm not sure this is current, but the first search result is from a 2015 rulebook: "Adjustable spring perches are allowed, but the spring loadbearing surface must be in the same location relative to the hub as on the standard part. Shims may be used to achieve compliance." Going to look some more. [Edit: It's the same in the 2024 rulebook.]
Interesting. I guess I could get the spring perches off RW to accommodate stock springs and use my shocks in a stock class if I so wanted.
One issue though someone should verify is 13.5.D rule on bumpstop engagement.
 
I'm competitive enough and I see a potential path to better performance. Let's see where it goes.
Yeah, helping build enthusiasm for EVs in the motorsports community is important to me. But I think seeing a Tesla in the mix with the GTSes and Z06s in their class is quite compelling.
I think the idea is just compete for PAX. Unless they are pasting EVX results in website.com/garbagefile, everyone will still see you race and will still see your times posted right alongside theirs.

I’ve been the only EV in all but one event, but folks still pay attention :) .
 
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I think the idea is just compete for PAX. Unless they are pasting EVX results in website.com/garbagefile, everyone will still see you race and will still see your times posted right alongside theirs.

I’ve been the only EV in all but one event, but folks still pay attention :) .
Yeah, getting buried by C6 Z06’s in AS isn’t impressing anyone lol. EVX build and run for FTD at my locals is all I care about anymore.
 
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Idk, a Tesla did well in AS @Crows Landing.
That car at Crows didn't even beat the fastest BS car and was a full 6 seconds off the fastest SS car. The top AS car was 5 seconds off the SS car.

Meanwhile at Nationals last year SS and AS were only 2 seconds off. That was not a top tier AS class at Crows, although the M3P may have done really well actually, it's just not an AS car.

Also, remember that the best a Model 3 ever did in stock class was in 2019 in David Marcus' hands when it was a BS car. Still ran 3 seconds slower than the top AS and SS cars.
 
Good points. I guess my POV is, at any* given event, the Tesla can be a contender even in street trim. Clearly, it’s not the go-to, except in EVX right now.
(Given the title of this thread, I understand how the conversation immediately took this turn. I had the impression that this was becoming our main autocross thread…)

As an update to my query about dampers to better control body motion / weight transfer: I messaged Heath at Redwood Motorsports yesterday and pulled the trigger on their FPX Long-Stroke "Damper Only" Upgrade Kit while they're currently running discounts. Including their billet remote adjustment knobs came to $2094, excluding shipping. They state that these can be readily converted to full coilovers if I decide to move out of street class.
I considered Koni adjustable--these also appear to be discounted right now to $722 at Tire Rack--and UP's Sport Suspension Kit, offered as a dampers-only option for $1075. As I mentioned, the "issue" with both of these options is that the adjustment for the rears is at the top of the shock, which cannot be accessed while mounted in the car. These then become a race to find the right compromise between street and track settings and just leave them alone.​
For this reason, I decided to splurge on the Redwood FPX. The rear shocks are inverted, so the adjustment knob is at the bottom instead. With the remote knobs option, the front adjustment can be accomplished from the frunk without having to remove trim pieces. In theory, I'll be able to dial in my track settings before an event (or perhaps at the event), and then back to a full street setting afterward with relative ease.
Another option was to do nothing and see if the new M3P's adaptive dampers make it worth considering a trade-in at some point, but that's a whole other topic...
Redwood offers two valving options: “CloudSpec” (their comfort option) or “Performance," which I opted for after Heath assured me that it still offered a wide range of adjustments from "quite stiff," to "reasonable for street use." Happy to update anyone interested in how this turns out.
 
Good points. I guess my POV is, at any* given event, the Tesla can be a contender even in street trim. Clearly, it’s not the go-to, except in EVX right now.
(Given the title of this thread, I understand how the conversation immediately took this turn. I had the impression that this was becoming our main autocross thread…)
It's not that this is the EV-X thread, it's just that the Model 3 isn't competitive in street class if you have solid competition. Of course some random local events it might win, but you would have won in those locations with basically any random AS car as well.

We just want people to be aware that nothing you do that leaves it in street class will make it competitive. Meanwhile the EV-X mods make it both a better daily and AutoX car and give it a great class to compete in, so you should be well aware of what you are doing before you spend money to stay in AS.
 
With the remote knobs option, the front adjustment can be accomplished from the frunk without having to remove trim pieces.
TBH, these 'remote adjusters' are more trouble than they are worth. I had them and removed them. I made like 1.5"-wide holes for them and they still moved enough to put sideways pressure on the actual knobs and popped those (with the little ball that makes the actual clicks getting lost as a result).

Just pop the small trim piece and reach behind the frunk liner to adjust.
That car at Crows didn't even beat the fastest BS car and was a full 6 seconds off the fastest SS car. The top AS car was 5 seconds off the SS car.

Meanwhile at Nationals last year SS and AS were only 2 seconds off. That was not a top tier AS class at Crows, although the M3P may have done really well actually, it's just not an AS car.

Also, remember that the best a Model 3 ever did in stock class was in 2019 in David Marcus' hands when it was a BS car. Still ran 3 seconds slower than the top AS and SS cars.
Sure, but a top BS time is usually enough for a trophy in AS. In 2023, top 4 BS cars would've trophied in AS. And M3P was/could be a top BS car.
 
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Even in EVX you’re in danger of getting gapped by AS cars. When a AS national champion shows up in his prepped C6Z on yokes, you’re gonna have a bad day no matter what lol.
Top two EV-X beat fastest AS at Nationals last year, by a fair amount even, and the AS cars were Z06's driven by national champs.

The data we have so far is that the 2023 and earlier M3P cars are BS cars when stock, and faster than AS (but slower than SS) in EV-X trim. At least until someone does a full-to-the-wall EV-X build, and maybe they might approach SS.

(This all assumes national style courses and concrete. Local courses are all over the place)
 
TBH, these 'remote adjusters' are more trouble than they are worth. I had them and removed them. I made like 1.5"-wide holes for them and they still moved enough to put sideways pressure on the actual knobs and popped those (with the little ball that makes the actual clicks getting lost as a result).
🤔 Do you reckon there’s anything that can be done that would prevent them from moving like that?
 
🤔 Do you reckon there’s anything that can be done that would prevent them from moving like that?
Maybe the RW pilloball tophats would help, but those won't be AS legal, methinks. Other than that, only a big hole in the frunk trim and half-a-hole in the detachable trim can prevent the adjusters from falling apart.

The detachable trim is easy to replace when you eventually sell the car, but the frunk trim is really expensive. Try adjusting w/o remote adjusters, it's pretty easy.
 
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