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Autocross- SCCA EV-X Class vs. SS

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My M3P is still stock, and I tried 15/85 front rear split, traction control on minimum, and experimented with 50% and 75% regen. I was really concerned about regen being weird to deal with but I didn't notice it, or notice any different between 50 and 75%. With 85% rear power bias the car would still tend to straight out when I floored it if I was starting to get too sideways.
Mine came from Fremont with a 0/100 split and it works for me, lol. The trick I found for us with non-track mode cars is to enable Slip Start and disable Automatic Emergency Braking. Is there anything else you folks have found?
 
I had a lot of issue with too much rear bias in cold/wet weather, which is the only time I've run the Tesla. Seems its real easy to over do exit throttle which spins up the inside then the TC (even full negative in track mode) brakes that wheel and shocks the outside. Didn't seem as much of an issue in dry weather but the slip vs grip of wet is much bigger difference than dry.

This car seems begging for a rear diff.
 
My M3P is still stock, and I tried 15/85 front rear split, traction control on minimum, and experimented with 50% and 75% regen. I was really concerned about regen being weird to deal with but I didn't notice it, or notice any different between 50 and 75%. With 85% rear power bias the car would still tend to straight out when I floored it if I was starting to get too sideways.
I always run 50/50 - it is faster since you are using front in corners ant eh car is already rear power biased. Full regen and anywhere between -6 and -10 SC, doesn't make too much difference if you are trying to be quick. even on -10 it is aggressive if you push too hard, just need to be smoother to be fast. main issue is weight inertia for turning. I don't think differentials do that much, at least that was the impression I got from the guys that make them
 
@Zextraterrestrial - are you talking about road courses or AutoX? They're pretty different situations, given how much torque the M3P has below 40 MPH.
It's my experience that 50/50 is best at a Dry AutoX, but it's tail happy in some corners in the wet and I run some front bias then. It definitely struggles for rear inside grip at 30 MPH and 1+ lateral G's even in the dry.

I always run 10 regen- in an AutoX, it's almost like having a bit of left foot braking for you and you're basically full power or brakes anyway.
 
Talking autocross, I’ve only done laguna seca and several hill climbs which are varied but more like autocross with top speeds of 95-105 or so
I run ASP class on 295 A7 and even in the wet go with 50/50
Sway bar settings and camber definitely change inner rear traction. I really don’t notice much of an issue, roll gently onto the throttle and slap it quickly if you lose traction until you find where it has grip.
 
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@Zextraterrestrial - are you talking about road courses or AutoX? They're pretty different situations, given how much torque the M3P has below 40 MPH.
It's my experience that 50/50 is best at a Dry AutoX, but it's tail happy in some corners in the wet and I run some front bias then. It definitely struggles for rear inside grip at 30 MPH and 1+ lateral G's even in the dry.

I always run 10 regen- in an AutoX, it's almost like having a bit of left foot braking for you and you're basically full power or brakes anyway.

I didn't notice any lack of instant acceleration on corner exit with things at 85% rear. I would love to know more about how it actually works, its clearly going back to 50/50 at some point when you are pointed straight enough. Gearcruncher do you have aftermarket swaybars?
 
I don't understand your logic here.
Rear motor puts out ~300hp front ~200.
car is perfectly weight balanced F/R so you already have more rear power when turning,
More adjusting of camber / bars if you lack traction. Currently I have no front bar at all (SPL link crapped on me so disconnected it)
rear inside sucks trying to come out of a corner(side street) fast and get traction. needs more front sway stiffness or a smaller rear bar...
I'm learning suspension stuff w/ this car so I am no expert BTW. ran only a front bar for a bit before adding the rear. pushed a bit, especially without camber
 
Rear motor puts out ~300hp front ~200.
car is perfectly weight balanced F/R so you already have more rear power when turning,

Ahh, I see. In terms of overall tire load though, the fronts are doing the vast majority of the braking at corner entry, and the turning of the car. Normally this would tend to favor not also loading them with a lot of accel on corner exit. But having no idea exactly how the feature is programmed, who knows what will actually be faster. Just have to experiment. The car did not feel at all tail happy at 85 rear 15 front for what it is worth.
 
I've played with different settings and like others on here, have settled on 50/50 as what feels "the fastest". I have had trouble with rear grip at times when running anything less than 50/50 which is fun to get a little drifty, but not fast. Going to my MPP Arms and Shocks made a world of difference though. I'm running -3.3 front camber and the mid corner steering is so much better.
 
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Rear motor puts out ~300hp front ~200.
car is perfectly weight balanced F/R so you already have more rear power when turning,
More adjusting of camber / bars if you lack traction. Currently I have no front bar at all (SPL link crapped on me so disconnected it)
rear inside sucks trying to come out of a corner(side street) fast and get traction. needs more front sway stiffness or a smaller rear bar...
I'm learning suspension stuff w/ this car so I am no expert BTW. ran only a front bar for a bit before adding the rear. pushed a bit, especially without camber
Larger rear bar will almost reduce traction coming out of a turn and don't allow you to get on the go pedal until much later in the apex. During the time trail days a typical 5 link rear suspension with proper spring rates will require little to no bar.
 
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Larger rear bar will almost reduce traction coming out of a turn and don't allow you to get on the go pedal until much later in the apex. During the time trail days a typical 5 link rear suspension with proper spring rates will require little to no bar.
Agreed, with the lack of an LSD, too much bar is going to lift up on the inside reducing exit traction which is no good.

My profile pic is my Evo which has such an aggressive rear diff the opposite is true. It doesn't really turn unless the tire is lifted and early exit puts all the power to the outside tire (cause the inside is in the air). This is only beneficial as a weight distribution mitigation.

With the 50/50 weight dist on the tesla, front and rear bars need to increase together so the cross talk reduces that lift force.
 
Fully agree about the rear bar comments - I am used to adding a big rear bar to other autocross cars and had that mindset but after putting coilovers on and getting the alignment right, that definitely changed my opinion!
Properly tuned coilovers with decent spring rates shouldn't need much more bar. If lots of bars are needed, perhaps the springs are too soft.
 
It does all depend what your goal for the car is though. If you want a car that you can drive to work every day and isn't too stiff and then AutoX without any changes, sway bars are pretty functional for that.
Definitely. I've been designing suspensions for about 15 years (through college and side business) and if there's anything I've learned its that its all a bag of compromises and tricks.
 
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Brake pads are never an issue, runs are short enough they don't overheat.

It isn't overheating that is a concern, its about the grab in the first few corners. When I first started serious autocrossing I discovered the stock pads in my BMW M3 would brake at 1+ G going into the first corner (cold). The track pads my competitors were using, and recommended by others, would brake at about .6 G going into the first corner when cold and would take another couple times of hard braking before they would match the bite of the stock pads.. The stock pads were not very good on the track, but for autocrossing they were great. I used a G-Analyst for all acceleration measurements. That was quite a few years ago and haven't done any measurements with the M3 Performance because it is such a pain to swap out the front pads on my M3 Performance. When I campaigned my BMW M3s, I would swap in my autocrossing pads when I swapped my tires. Took me 45 minutes to swap everything in prep for a day of autocrossing. Can't say the same for the M3 Performance.