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Battery Drain Overnight.

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I lost 9% over the weekend.
To recap. This started straight after the 48.30 upgrade (although correlation does not necessarily equal causation)
Car goes into online/asleep cycles roughly every 6 hours. Similar pattern to others in this thread.
On Friday I rebooted (with pedal) the car before leaving it over the weekend.
Password has already been changed, so only Tesla app is able to connect.
Bluetooth was switched off, and app removed from phone.
Sentry switched off, no scheduling setup.

I spoke to the Tesla engineer today when he was replacing my camera and he said that 3-5% loss per day is ok. I stopped the conversation at that point :) He has re applied the last update - to trigger some sort of deep sleep he said - so I'll see what happens next. I've put Teslamate back on, so I should be able to see quite quickly if it has started cycling again.
 
I lost 9% over the weekend.
To recap. This started straight after the 48.30 upgrade (although correlation does not necessarily equal causation)
Car goes into online/asleep cycles roughly every 6 hours. Similar pattern to others in this thread.
On Friday I rebooted (with pedal) the car before leaving it over the weekend.
Password has already been changed, so only Tesla app is able to connect.
Bluetooth was switched off, and app removed from phone.
Sentry switched off, no scheduling setup.

I spoke to the Tesla engineer today when he was replacing my camera and he said that 3-5% loss per day is ok. I stopped the conversation at that point :) He has re applied the last update - to trigger some sort of deep sleep he said - so I'll see what happens next. I've put Teslamate back on, so I should be able to see quite quickly if it has started cycling again.
This what worries me about this battery problem, and about Tesla generally. They shut shut down every problem with a “this is within the tolerances” line that gets trotted out. There is no “yeah this is a known bug, sorry and we are working on it”, they just treat you like you are an idiot and that you should be happy for the battery to lose 30% from passive drain every week. If your ICE car lost 1/3 tank sitting on your drive every week people would be livid! (Yeah I know it’s not the same, but I also know a properly functioning Tesla does not drain the battery!! And don’t @ me with all the billion variables/excuses, it only gives Tesla fobbing off excuses)
 
This is mine. Never known it so bad. I wonder if it’s a software problem. At this rate a fully charged car would be back to zero in just over a week.

CDD0F4AA-313B-48F9-9334-9663F433856A.jpeg
 
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Just the wheel buttons did nothing for me. Had to be the harder reset with foot on the brake

FWIW: there is also another "reset" that I do every time there is a software update (been doing this since the fall of 2018).

In the safety and security section on the UI, there is the full power down button.

One caveat once that button is used...one cannot/cannot force the car to use ANY energy for the next 120 (+/-) seconds...any energy use such as opening a door, shifting in your seat, opening the center consol.

My technique:
  • turn on the HVAC system but manually set the fan speed to "1" (low setting),
  • prepare for the shutdown by setting up a stop watch on your phone,
  • go to the safety and security menu, scroll down to the power off button, push the button, agree with the warning and confirmation,
  • start your timer AND DON"T TOUCH ANYTHING!!!!,
  • after "about" 30 seconds the HVAC fan will stop,
  • after "about" another 90 seconds, the temperature blend door inside the HVAC assembly will make a noise (move to the null position), signifying a true, real full power down, and
  • your timer should also be reading "about" 120 seconds at the same time the HVAC system makes that temperature blend door noise, and
  • then you can wake the car back up.
Also a good technique prior to installing a new software version: unplug the external hard drive (for sentry mode) and then re-install it once the twin thumb scroll and full power down resets have been completed.

All this may sound like a PITA, but what you guys are describing is sounding much like what I was going through about 2.5 years ago, before I learned about the above techniques.

I spoke to the Tesla engineer today when he was replacing my camera and he said that 3-5% loss per day is ok

3-5% is BS.

Capture.PNG


It's understood that when a warm battery is left out in the cold, there will be an initial "loss" that is actually a portion of the charge unavailable until the battery pack is re-warmed up on the next drive.

With no third party apps, car stored at 8C, unlocked in my garage, with no sentry mode on, my car loses 0.31% a day, which has been the case for the past few years.

YMMV.
 
FWIW: there is also another "reset" that I do every time there is a software update (been doing this since the fall of 2018).

In the safety and security section on the UI, there is the full power down button.

One caveat once that button is used...one cannot/cannot force the car to use ANY energy for the next 120 (+/-) seconds...any energy use such as opening a door, shifting in your seat, opening the center consol.

My technique:
  • turn on the HVAC system but manually set the fan speed to "1" (low setting),
  • prepare for the shutdown by setting up a stop watch on your phone,
  • go to the safety and security menu, scroll down to the power off button, push the button, agree with the warning and confirmation,
  • start your timer AND DON"T TOUCH ANYTHING!!!!,
  • after "about" 30 seconds the HVAC fan will stop,
  • after "about" another 90 seconds, the temperature blend door inside the HVAC assembly will make a noise (move to the null position), signifying a true, real full power down, and
  • your timer should also be reading "about" 120 seconds at the same time the HVAC system makes that temperature blend door noise, and
  • then you can wake the car back up.
Also a good technique prior to installing a new software version: unplug the external hard drive (for sentry mode) and then re-install it once the twin thumb scroll and full power down resets have been completed.

All this may sound like a PITA, but what you guys are describing is sounding much like what I was going through about 2.5 years ago, before I learned about the above techniques.



3-5% is BS.

View attachment 633006

It's understood that when a warm battery is left out in the cold, there will be an initial "loss" that is actually a portion of the charge unavailable until the battery pack is re-warmed up on the next drive.

With no third party apps, car stored at 8C, unlocked in my garage, with no sentry mode on, my car loses 0.31% a day, which has been the case for the past few years.

YMMV.
Stupid question, what do you mean wake the car back up? Is that simply holding down buttons on the steering wheel to reboot (never really thought full power down actually turns the thing off!)
 
Stupid question, what do you mean wake the car back up? Is that simply holding down buttons on the steering wheel to reboot (never really thought full power down actually turns the thing off!)
I should have used some examples to illustrate what will "wake the car back up" (during or) after a full power down using that button in the safety and security menu.

Things like (but not limited to): shifting in your seat; opening the storage in the center console (turns on the little LED lamp), opening a door to exit the vehicle, touching the brake and/or accelerator pedal, etc.
 
I hope this helps everyone with battery drain issues in as much as what has been normal for my car for as long as I've noted. I have never suffered any significant loss overnight or anytime when parked/not in use. Firstly the idle condiyions;

The car is parked in a garage whenever not in use, connected to the house wifi, good lte signal, locked without sentry enabled. The tesla wall unit has only been connected to the car on the day prior to a Octopus Go night time battery top up, typically around 20%. Since the car has been hardly used the wall wall unit has only been connected once in the last week.

The attached files are the recent days teslafi records clearly showing no battery loss, when not in use.
The image showing battery loss was a trip to the park this afternoon.
This post is not intended as a brag merely to show what is the norm for my car.
 

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Folks - just a word of caution if planning a full ‘screen safety & security button’ reset as described in post #126 above.

I had to do this twice at Tesla’s request during December & on both occasions the car returned to its original factory condition (map even showed me parked in Fremont until I started to drive). The current software WAS still installed on the car but all history was lost except total miles driven - historical kWh had reset to zero and most driver & car settings had changed back to default ( inc Netflix/Google logins etc)

I’m not sure if this would happen for everybody but it was quite a faff having to go into virtually every car setting for myself and my wife & reset everything (twice)
 
Folks - just a word of caution if planning a full ‘screen safety & security button’ reset as described in post #126 above.

I had to do this twice at Tesla’s request during December & on both occasions the car returned to its original factory condition (map even showed me parked in Fremont until I started to drive). The current software WAS still installed on the car but all history was lost except total miles driven - historical kWh had reset to zero and most driver & car settings had changed back to default ( inc Netflix/Google logins etc)

I’m not sure if this would happen for everybody but it was quite a faff having to go into virtually every car setting for myself and my wife & reset everything (twice)

Thanks for thr warning - will give it a try anyway, as it would definitely be worth it if it sorts out my drain issues!

I'll report back.....