FWIW: there is also another "reset" that I do every time there is a software update (been doing this since the fall of 2018).
In the safety and security section on the UI, there is the full power down button.
One caveat once that button is used...one cannot/cannot force the car to use ANY energy for the next 120 (+/-) seconds...any energy use such as opening a door, shifting in your seat, opening the center consol.
My technique:
- turn on the HVAC system but manually set the fan speed to "1" (low setting),
- prepare for the shutdown by setting up a stop watch on your phone,
- go to the safety and security menu, scroll down to the power off button, push the button, agree with the warning and confirmation,
- start your timer AND DON"T TOUCH ANYTHING!!!!,
- after "about" 30 seconds the HVAC fan will stop,
- after "about" another 90 seconds, the temperature blend door inside the HVAC assembly will make a noise (move to the null position), signifying a true, real full power down, and
- your timer should also be reading "about" 120 seconds at the same time the HVAC system makes that temperature blend door noise, and
- then you can wake the car back up.
Also a good technique prior to installing a new software version: unplug the external hard drive (for sentry mode) and then re-install it once the twin thumb scroll and full power down resets have been completed.
All this may sound like a PITA, but what you guys are describing is sounding much like what I was going through about 2.5 years ago, before I learned about the above techniques.
3-5% is BS.
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It's understood that when a warm battery is left out in the cold, there will be an initial "loss" that is actually a portion of the charge unavailable until the battery pack is re-warmed up on the next drive.
With no third party apps, car stored at 8C, unlocked in my garage, with no sentry mode on, my car loses 0.31% a day, which has been the case for the past few years.
YMMV.