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Be aware! Missing Control Arm Nut: Potential Safety Issue

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I cant stop looking at the bumper paint miss match with the rest of the car...

Oh, and how is it the OP could not feel the front wheel being so sloppy and the car pulling left/right before the visual effect drew his attention?
 
I took these when the Mobil Tech was installing my HomeLink, are these the mounting points in question?
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The Tech aid they only why he could confirm anything was to jack the car, remove the wheels and check with a torque wrench. But he didn't have time and we both thought they looked fine.
 
Is it possible that all MYs can be retrofitted with castle nuts instead of these lock nuts? Or would that require all new control arms?

Castle nuts require a hole through the fastener to allow a cotter pin to pass through as shown in this picture. Technically you can do it but I would just verify torque and mark with a product like TSI Supercool 12848 Yellow Warranty Seal Marker.
 

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Used to be but I don’t believe it’s the current practice with better hardware from what I’ve been able to find. I doubt the two noted on this thread were ever installed or not installed properly, could happen with any hardware on any vehicle.
 
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Castle nuts require a hole through the fastener to allow a cotter pin to pass through as shown in this picture. Technically you can do it but I would just verify torque and mark with a product like TSI Supercool 12848 Yellow Warranty Seal Marker.
Not just through the nut, through the spindle too so no, can’t just slap a castellated but on there. I’m sure some engineering analysis went into the design.
 
Blurry semicircle to the left and marring to the right of the bolt looks like the lock nut loosened and rubbed before eventually falling off. I'd check if the bolt threads have wear (lock nut was installed vs not installed).

I'm not seeing any witness marks on the failed joint.. can you point it out please? Are you referring to the galling inside the nut seat?

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Generally, anything suspension related needs to be level and loaded before torquing to spec.

(The bolt and nut are steel so I'm going to yank hard clockwise with a wrench to make sure the nut isn't loose.)

The Tech aid they only why he could confirm anything was to jack the car, remove the wheels and check with a torque wrench. But he didn't have time and we both thought they looked fine.