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Best mud flaps?

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I read this whole thread with curiosity trying to figure out why people are adding NVH and cheapness to their Tesla's to make them look like an 80's Honda. Your response is the first one that hit the nail on the head.
Well, even going on a short 15 mile drive (first trip after picking up the car brand new) there was a bunch of road grime thrown all over the rocker panels and also on the sides of the rear bumper of my car.

For people without PPF (or even with it), they may want to avoid that, especially if they live in areas with harder/corrosive material like sand, salt, rocks, or gravel on the road. Tesla's paint does not exactly have a reputation for durability and there have been reported cases of the rocker panels rusting as a result (less of an issue on rear bumper as that's plastic, but it still looks bad). It may be worth it just to not have to clean up the grime. The mud flaps can make a huge difference on how much material hits your car.

I'm going to put on PPF, but I'm still considering putting on mudflaps regardless.
 
I read this whole thread with curiosity trying to figure out why people are adding NVH and cheapness to their Tesla's to make them look like an 80's Honda. Your response is the first one that hit the nail on the head.
None of these mud flaps add NVH, even the loose ones that might flap in the wind. And not all of them look cheap (subjective, of course). For most of us that are adding these to our cars, we want to protect the paint. That's more important to us than "looking cheap". I guess if you don't care about the paint or will not have the car long enough to matter, then don't install them.
 
yep, cheapest is the best. have had mine on for 1.5 years without issues. front right one broke from a rock (good). The front ones are slightly loose as they cant be completely fastened without drilling but isnt an issue normally. Rear ones are supertight.
I used to have the 1st gen Basenor flaps (same generic ones that many other brands sell) and drilled the holes for the front to hold them securely. It's not a big deal to drill the hole, because it's drilled into the plastic wheel well liner. If you ever remove them (like I did to replace with the TSolutions flaps) you can keep the hole covered by leaving the screw in it or using a trim clip in it. It if were drilling into metal then it would be a big deal and I wouldn't have done it or recommended anyone do it.
 
So for those with the T-Solutions I just installed mine and have a few questions:

1. Does anyone think the metal bracket will scratch the paint between bracket and the body?
2. Same question as it relates to where these sit flush with the wheel well? Seems like road vibrations and bumps could cause some friction there.
3. The directions say the bracket should be facing "up" but the picture shows down. I went with "up". Did i guess correctly?

All in all, I have a zero level of skill and got them on in my garage in about 45 minutes.

Thanks.
 
I like the ones linked on post #62; they look OEM. I'd like to see them installed, however. But my main concern with them is the loss of efficiency. Sometimes, something seemingly small like that could add a lot of drag. Even the wheels without aero covers, which have absolutely nothing protruding out into the wind, add quite a bit of drag. The main reason for me to add them is to make less of a mess when it rains; I don't think they protect much from paint damage, at least on my stock car, in which the wheels are not protruding out of the wheel wells. Curious if anybody has tested Wh/mi with and without mud guards, just like with and without aero wheel covers. I'd like to know the difference in both cases :). Thx.
 
I like the ones linked on post #62; they look OEM. I'd like to see them installed, however. But my main concern with them is the loss of efficiency. Sometimes, something seemingly small like that could add a lot of drag. Even the wheels without aero covers, which have absolutely nothing protruding out into the wind, add quite a bit of drag. The main reason for me to add them is to make less of a mess when it rains; I don't think they protect much from paint damage, at least on my stock car, in which the wheels are not protruding out of the wheel wells. Curious if anybody has tested Wh/mi with and without mud guards, just like with and without aero wheel covers. I'd like to know the difference in both cases :). Thx.
Still have the paint rubbing issue on those. May or may not bother you. On my performance model the 20 inch wheels sit pretty wide so the guards are a must. I think any impact on range is probably minimal as others have reported no noticeable effects.
 
I like the ones linked on post #62; they look OEM. I'd like to see them installed, however. But my main concern with them is the loss of efficiency. Sometimes, something seemingly small like that could add a lot of drag. Even the wheels without aero covers, which have absolutely nothing protruding out into the wind, add quite a bit of drag. The main reason for me to add them is to make less of a mess when it rains; I don't think they protect much from paint damage, at least on my stock car, in which the wheels are not protruding out of the wheel wells. Curious if anybody has tested Wh/mi with and without mud guards, just like with and without aero wheel covers. I'd like to know the difference in both cases :). Thx.
I did a test of energy consumption right after installing mud flaps and found no difference. Everybody who has measured and paid attention has also found no difference. The flaps are probably small enough and close enough to the tires to ride in their slipstream. Perhaps the RallyArmor ones when set at the outmost position would affect energy consumption a bit.
 
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So for those with the T-Solutions I just installed mine and have a few questions:

1. Does anyone think the metal bracket will scratch the paint between bracket and the body?
2. Same question as it relates to where these sit flush with the wheel well? Seems like road vibrations and bumps could cause some friction there.
3. The directions say the bracket should be facing "up" but the picture shows down. I went with "up". Did i guess correctly?

All in all, I have a zero level of skill and got them on in my garage in about 45 minutes.

Thanks.
1. I'm not concerned about this at at. It fits tight enough, and the spot is plastic and under the car where it's not visible.
2. Not concerned either. The fronts fit right enough that there doesn't seem like there's much vibration. The rears, as mentioned before, are not a concern to me because it mounts to plastic. I'm more concerned about metal rusting, so the plastic doesn't concern me.
3. I installed mine with the "claw" pulling the flap down.
 
1. I'm not concerned about this at at. It fits tight enough, and the spot is plastic and under the car where it's not visible.
2. Not concerned either. The fronts fit right enough that there doesn't seem like there's much vibration. The rears, as mentioned before, are not a concern to me because it mounts to plastic. I'm more concerned about metal rusting, so the plastic doesn't concern me.
3. I installed mine with the "claw" pulling the flap down.
Thanks. I tend to agree. Only thing I don’t love is you can see the tape from the side. It’s not super clean looking. Maybe I just didn’t do a great job. I got the claw wrong the first time. The directions were not very clear on the point since they say angled up but show the claw down. I ended up flipping it around to the down position as you mentioned. First drive coming. We will see if they stay put.
 
For those with T solutions, any fix for the fact that the rears are crooked? They look kind of crappy from the back of the car as they are angled awkwardly. Not the end of the world but not great for a 55k car.
Can you share a picture showing what you mean by crooked? I'd share a picture of mine, but we've had a lot of snow and my car and flaps aren't clean -- and can't wash them until temps rise.
 
Can you share a picture showing what you mean by crooked? I'd share a picture of mine, but we've had a lot of snow and my car and flaps aren't clean -- and can't wash them until temps rise.
Yeah I’ll try to get one posted. Best way to describe is when looking at the rear of the car head on, the flaps are angled rather than straight across on the bottom. Mine is pretty dirty too. It’s not the end of the world but it doesn’t exactly scream luxury either.
 
I ordered Rally Armor mudflaps for my 2021 M3P, which I have yet to install. Has anyone come across a decent video of the installation process? The instructions appear reasonably clear, but a good video is always helpful.

Also, one reviewer I came across said he had to remove the rear wheels to install the rear flaps. If you've installed these mudflaps, did you find it necessary to do that?
 
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Yeah I’ll try to get one posted. Best way to describe is when looking at the rear of the car head on, the flaps are angled rather than straight across on the bottom. Mine is pretty dirty too. It’s not the end of the world but it doesn’t exactly scream luxury either.
Your are right that the rears on TSOLUTIONS aren't perfectly straight up and down because mine are the same. I guess I just never noticed until you said something, but it doesn't really bother me that much.
 

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Yeah I’ll try to get one posted. Best way to describe is when looking at the rear of the car head on, the flaps are angled rather than straight across on the bottom. Mine is pretty dirty too. It’s not the end of the world but it doesn’t exactly scream luxury either.
Here are my t solutions from the rear. As you can see they have a funny angle at the bottom. Clearly I didn’t install them correctly or something. Probably just leave it alone at this point.
 

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