Yup that's exactly what I'm saying.All of the chargers are only using 240V which doesn't need the neutral wire. The neutral wire is only needed for 120V or older homes that used it as ground (NEMA 10-30 or 10-50).
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Yup that's exactly what I'm saying.All of the chargers are only using 240V which doesn't need the neutral wire. The neutral wire is only needed for 120V or older homes that used it as ground (NEMA 10-30 or 10-50).
Still cannot figure out why all our houses are not burning down in Canada. I used Romex 6/2 for both my wall connectors, rated at 75amps. Have searched and cannot find the physical difference between NMD90 Canadian spec and NM-B90 US spec. 6 gauge copper is 6 gauge copper and will easily support over 60 amps however there must be something with the insulation that sets them apart. Regardless, not acceptable to use this in the US.
If you live in Canada, yes Romex 6 gauge is more than adequate as it is rated at 75A. NMD90 6/2 Cu G Rd 492R | Southwire
95f summer and -30f winter is not unusual however it can get hotter or colder. Lots of people think we do not get warm up here but we do. Summers around 90f and 100% humidity almost feel like the worst of summer in Florida sometimes. Not as often or as long but yes it gets uncomfortably hot. Almost every home has a pool and AC. Remember, almost all population in Canada is very close to the border of the US. In my case I am 45 minutes away so might as well say it is the same location as northern US.what is the typical worst case ambient temp scenario for Canada?
The NEC simply doesn't trust NM cable as much as other wiring methods and imposes a tighter limit on its use. I don't think there's a technical justification for it.Still cannot figure out why all our houses are not burning down in Canada. I used Romex 6/2 for both my wall connectors, rated at 75amps. Have searched and cannot find the physical difference between NMD90 Canadian spec and NM-B90 US spec. 6 gauge copper is 6 gauge copper and will easily support over 60 amps however there must be something with the insulation that sets them apart. Regardless, not acceptable to use this in the US.
To be clear, you are charging using an EVSE, the portable one that came with your EV and plugs into a receptacle. So your rant is against higher amperage hardwired EVSEs, not against EVSEs.An EVSE is a waste of money, and higher charge rates are unnecessary since we charge overnight.
95f summer and -30f winter is not unusual however it can get hotter or colder. Lots of people think we do not get warm up here but we do. Summers around 90f and 100% humidity almost feel like the worst of summer in Florida sometimes. Not as often or as long but yes it gets uncomfortably hot. Almost every home has a pool and AC. Remember, almost all population in Canada is very close to the border of the US. In my case I am 45 minutes away so might as well say it is the same location as northern US.
Ampacity values are based on a 30C ambient and an insulation rating of 60C, 75C, or 90C. Ampacity is adjusted for ambient temperature in excess of 30C, and final ampacity is limited to the termination temperature limits (which will be 60C or 75C in practice) as well as any specific limits like the 60C ampacity limit for NM (which does have 90C conductors inside).But anyways, just speculating, I have no actual idea about the code
I just looked at the wiring that was used in my solar/ battery install.Ampacity values are based on a 30C ambient and an insulation rating of 60C, 75C, or 90C. Ampacity is adjusted for ambient temperature in excess of 30C, and final ampacity is limited to the termination temperature limits (which will be 60C or 75C in practice) as well as any specific limits like the 60C ampacity limit for NM (which does have 90C conductors inside).
So for the case of #6 Cu, with ampacities of 55A, 65A, and 75A at 60C, 75C, and 90C respectively, as you are limited to 55A in the end but can start derating for temperature based on the 75A rating, you can afford a temperature factor of 55A/75A = 0.73 with no change in the final ampacity. Ampacity varies as the sqrt of delta T (since heat loss is proportional to delta T and resistive heating is proportional to the square of current, I^2*R heating), so the maximum delta T ratio that would allow a final ampacity of 55A would be (55/75)^2 = 0.54. Meaning that ambient could be up to 0.54 * 30C + (1 - 0.54) * 90 C = 58C = 135F while maintaining a 55A ampacity.
But just the idea that NM cable may be used in high ambient is not a justification for limiting it to the 60C ampacity, by itself. Since there is after all a procedure for accounting for high ambient. The idea that the less qualified, who would install wiring without considering derating for ambient temperature, are more likely to use NM cable than other wiring methods is perhaps a reason to penalize NM. Or, if you prefer, to impose a simpler measure for dealing with ambient temperature for NM cable.
Cheers, Wayne
If you see a thick cable with a plastic sheath, you need to read the text on the plastic sheath to find out the cable type: NM, SER or SEU, UF.The approved plans from engineer say thhn #6 in 3/4 conduit. But, they used NM #6 instead.
Modern NM (the printing will say NM-B) always has 90C conductors inside, but the NEC always restricts the final ampacity to the 60C value. Similarly for UF.And how does one tell if the NM is 60C, or 75C or 90C?
Cool, knew someone here would have the technical details. So not sure I followed along with the exact formula, but I think you're saying US 55A limit works up to 135F, which is probably enough to cover an Arizona summer. Now if I plug in 65A, I think it comes out to 0.75* 30C + (1 - 0.54) * 90C = 45C = 113F. And 75A comes out to 1 * 30C + (1-1) * 90C = 30C = 86F.Ampacity values are based on a 30C ambient and an insulation rating of 60C, 75C, or 90C. Ampacity is adjusted for ambient temperature in excess of 30C, and final ampacity is limited to the termination temperature limits (which will be 60C or 75C in practice) as well as any specific limits like the 60C ampacity limit for NM (which does have 90C conductors inside).
So for the case of #6 Cu, with ampacities of 55A, 65A, and 75A at 60C, 75C, and 90C respectively, as you are limited to 55A in the end but can start derating for temperature based on the 75A rating, you can afford a temperature factor of 55A/75A = 0.73 with no change in the final ampacity. Ampacity varies as the sqrt of delta T (since heat loss is proportional to delta T and resistive heating is proportional to the square of current, I^2*R heating), so the maximum delta T ratio that would allow a final ampacity of 55A would be (55/75)^2 = 0.54. Meaning that ambient could be up to 0.54 * 30C + (1 - 0.54) * 90 C = 58C = 135F while maintaining a 55A ampacity.
But just the idea that NM cable may be used in high ambient is not a justification for limiting it to the 60C ampacity, by itself. Since there is after all a procedure for accounting for high ambient. The idea that the less qualified, who would install wiring without considering derating for ambient temperature, are more likely to use NM cable than other wiring methods is perhaps a reason to penalize NM. Or, if you prefer, to impose a simpler measure for dealing with ambient temperature for NM cable.
Cheers, Wayne
I cannot understand why people need some fancy junk on the wall just to charge their car, when this set up has done the job for me since 2012.
Yes, except you have a typo, it should be 0.75* 30C + (1 - 0.75) * 90C = 45C. And 0.75 comes from 0.75 = (65/75)^2.Now if I plug in 65A, I think it comes out to 0.75* 30C + (1 - 0.54) * 90C = 45C = 113F. And 75A comes out to 1 * 30C + (1-1) * 90C = 30C = 86F.
I would say it is all about trusting NM users not to misuse it and to apply the temperature corrections if required.So part of the looser Canada spec of 75A is based on their lower ambient temps, because still within US code; but part is based on them trusting NM more?
I cannot understand why someone who has owned Teslas for 10 years (and let's keep in mind that 10 years ago, Teslas were nowhere near mainstream and cost 6 figures) for some reason isn't willing to buy a high current EVSE. It's not like you really needed a Tesla in 2012 in the first place. Even if you haven't owned Teslas for 10 years and initially had another type of EV, EVs 10 years ago in general were not a mainstream item either, and were very expensive.A good many of us Tesla owners have been charging on 220v 50-amp circuits for years, from an outlet, and have never experienced any problems with that setup. An EVSE is a waste of money, and higher charge rates are unnecessary since we charge overnight. I bought and wired my own outlet in my garage. The outlet cost me (ten years ago) about $10, the wire not a whole lot more for #6 romex. I cannot understand why people need some fancy junk on the wall just to charge their car, when this set up has done the job for me since 2012.
Yes, except you have a typo, it should be 0.75* 30C + (1 - 0.75) * 90C = 45C. And 0.75 comes from 0.75 = (65/75)^2.
I would say it is all about trusting NM users not to misuse it and to apply the temperature corrections if required.
Cheers, Wayne
#6 Cu with 90C insulation in 30C ambient with no more than 3 current carrying conductors in the same cable or conduit has an ampacity of 75A. Which means that under those conditions there's an adequate safety margin for the insulation temperature not to exceed its 90C rating and damage the insulation.If the inside of the house were always kept below 86F, and so the gap between stories also below that, then #6 AWG should be able to handle 75A safely rather than 55A, based on temperature corrections?
Some people might need more, but we have 2 Teslas and are fine on a 50A circuit.A good many of us Tesla owners have been charging on 220v 50-amp circuits for years, from an outlet, and have never experienced any problems with that setup. An EVSE is a waste of money, and higher charge rates are unnecessary since we charge overnight. I bought and wired my own outlet in my garage. The outlet cost me (ten years ago) about $10, the wire not a whole lot more for #6 romex. I cannot understand why people need some fancy junk on the wall just to charge their car, when this set up has done the job for me since 2012.
For me, it is a question of hassle vs. want. I am pretty close on loads on my panel and the electrician did not want to sign off on going above 50A. And it turns out that 40A is fine.I cannot understand why someone who has owned Teslas for 10 years (and let's keep in mind that 10 years ago, Teslas were nowhere near mainstream and cost 6 figures) for some reason isn't willing to buy a high current EVSE. It's not like you really needed a Tesla in 2012 in the first place. Even if you haven't owned Teslas for 10 years and initially had another type of EV, EVs 10 years ago in general were not a mainstream item either, and were very expensive.
If you can afford to spend $50-150k on a Tesla, why is it such a big deal to spend another $500 (less than 1% of the cost of the car, mind you) or so on a fast EVSE to make sure you can take full advantage of its charging capabilities?