Can the VIN Provide Model Information?

[Sunny5280]

I am considering the purchase of a used Model 3 Performance and want to ensure that any I consider truly are the performance model. When I attempt to decode the VIN to determine if a specific car is really a Performance version I am unable to get anything that makes sense. Apparently the 8th digit of the VIN should provide this information but comparing various VIN numbers for, advertised, Performance models I am unable to reconcile the VIN with the various sites which describe the VIN.

My question is simple: How can I tell, from the VIN, if a specific model is really the Performance model? Is it possible? If so what should I look for? If not what can I check in person to make this determination? I'd prefer to know this information from the VIN in order to save a wasted trip looking at something that's not the Performance version.

I'm also considering the Long Range as I feel I may benefit more from the added range compared to the performance. But I really like the idea of the Performance (which I believe has better braking and better handling). If you'd like to offer thoughts on this they'd be welcome.

Thanks!

 

[i11matic]

Only models produced at the end of 2019, thus 2020 and up models will have a VIN indicating if it’s a Performance. The eighth character in the VIN will be “C” if it’s a performance.

 

[Sunny5280]

Thanks i11matic. That would explain the reason why I am unable to reconcile them via the VIN. Is there any visual indication I should look for? Preferably ones which are easy to identify in a picture? But more importantly if I were to inspect the vehicle in person?

 

[RayK]

Wouldn't "Performance" show up on the vehicle status page on the screen ("About Your Tesla")?

edit: Okay, maybe "Dual Motor" with a red line underneath?

 

[jjrandorin]

Only models produced at the end of 2019, thus 2020 and up models will have a VIN indicating if it’s a Performance. The eighth character in the VIN will be “C” if it’s a performance.

When you look in the vehicle, the picture of the car on the screen will show the words "dual motor" with a red underline on it. There is no way we are aware of to spoof that in the physical car. The badge on the back of the car doesnt mean anything, you can get that online.

Unlike a lot of other makes (most of them in fact) you can not easily go to an online vin decoder to get a definitive answer of car features. My 2018 model 3 performance has a vin that does not specifically denote its a performance model 3.

 

[Sunny5280]

Thank you everyone for your feedback. This is good to know. The picture of the car being referred to. Is this something that appears when first powered on? Or do I need to go to a status page to find it? Also are the brakes on the Performance model visibly different than the non-Performance models (I've read the Performance model has larger brakes, is this true?)

 

[El joe]

When you look in the vehicle, the picture of the car on the screen will show the words "dual motor" with a red underline on it. There is no way we are aware of to spoof that in the physical car. The badge on the back of the car doesnt mean anything, you can get that online.

Unlike a lot of other makes (most of them in fact) you can not easily go to an online vin decoder to get a definitive answer of car features. My 2018 model 3 performance has a vin that does not specifically denote its a performance model 3.

Agreed. And somewhat relevant, a decoder I used on my Model Y indicated it to be a Performance, but the screen showed it’s not. It was also apparent when Acceleration Boost was an optional upgrade on the app. So those decoders aren’t always accurate.

 

[jjrandorin]

Thank you everyone for your feedback. This is good to know. The picture of the car being referred to. Is this something that appears when first powered on? Or do I need to go to a status page to find it? Also are the brakes on the Performance model visibly different than the non-Performance models (I've read the Performance model has larger brakes, is this true?)

In the vehicle:

• Tap the picture of the car on the menu on the touch screen, on the bottom left hand side of the screen
• When the menu opens, touch the SOFTWARE menu choice. A picture of the car appears, with the VIN number, miles on the odometer and vehicle type. "Dual Motor" on this screen WITHOUT a red underline is a LR / AWD vehicle. Dual motor WITH a red underline is a performance.
• While in this screen, tap the "Additional information" link to get more information about the vehicle (such as whether it has the "FSD computer" which is known here as "Hardware 3" or "HW3".

You can not (on any vehicle, Teslas, or any other) definitively determine vehicle model by ANYTHING on the outside of the vehicle, including brakes, tires etc. ALL of these items may be added by the vehicle owner. People can swap out brakes (or paint their non performance brakes the same color the performance model comes with), people can change tires for ones that come on the performance model (or look a likes), etc.

Never (ever) for any model car, tesla or otherwise, make an assumption of vehicle model, because you see some feature or other on the car. I come from a long time of BMW ownership / leasing, and "quad tailpipes" are one of the definitive features of BMW M cars. People mod their cars to add them all the time, to (for example) BMW 320 / 320s. People add M badges on the rear deck lid. Neither of those make the car a M car, but it can look like one.

Moral of the story is, dont pay attention to brakes, tires, badges etc, other than to say "I might want to look at this particular vehicle closer".

 

[zhu-]

The red underline would be enough proof to make the trip to go see it, then you can confirm it with your foot

You could also ask the owner to take a screenshot of the bottom of the mobile app where it shows miles, vin, and also the Dual Motor / Performance design indicators.

 

[Sunny5280]

In the vehicle:

• Tap the picture of the car on the menu on the touch screen, on the bottom left hand side of the screen
• When the menu opens, touch the SOFTWARE menu choice. A picture of the car appears, with the VIN number, miles on the odometer and vehicle type. "Dual Motor" on this screen WITHOUT a red underline is a LR / AWD vehicle. Dual motor WITH a red underline is a performance.
• While in this screen, tap the "Additional information" link to get more information about the vehicle (such as whether it has the "FSD computer" which is known here as "Hardware 3" or "HW3".

You can not (on any vehicle, Teslas, or any other) definitively determine vehicle model by ANYTHING on the outside of the vehicle, including brakes, tires etc. ALL of these items may be added by the vehicle owner. People can swap out brakes (or paint their non performance brakes the same color the performance model comes with), people can change tires for ones that come on the performance model (or look a likes), etc.

Never (ever) for any model car, tesla or otherwise, make an assumption of vehicle model, because you see some feature or other on the car. I come from a long time of BMW ownership / leasing, and "quad tailpipes" are one of the definitive features of BMW M cars. People mod their cars to add them all the time, to (for example) BMW 320 / 320s. People add M badges on the rear deck lid. Neither of those make the car a M car, but it can look like one.

Moral of the story is, dont pay attention to brakes, tires, badges etc, other than to say "I might want to look at this particular vehicle closer".

Thank for this information and thank you for the warning. I am a seasoned BMW owner (currently have a 2011 X5-M) and have owned them since the E36 325i. I am able to eyeball BMWs, at least certain series, and know what options / configuration it has. But I never trust unless I can get up close and personal. The reason I ask for visual indicators is to try and save myself a trip if there's some visual indicator which would exclude the vehicle from consideration.

Now that I've mentioned the X5 any thoughts of replacing it with the Model 3 Performance? They're two completely different vehicles but I currently own a 2018 Volt and I've been considering moving to 100% electric. I could either go Bolt and keep the X5 or get the Model 3 and get rid of the Volt and X5.

 

[jjrandorin]

Thank for this information and thank you for the warning. I am a seasoned BMW owner (currently have a 2011 X5-M) and have owned them since the E36 325i. I am able to eyeball BMWs, at least certain series, and know what options / configuration it has. But I never trust unless I can get up close and personal. The reason I ask for visual indicators is to try and save myself a trip if there's some visual indicator which would exclude the vehicle from consideration.

Now that I've mentioned the X5 any thoughts of replacing it with the Model 3 Performance? They're two completely different vehicles but I currently own a 2018 Volt and I've been considering moving to 100% electric. I could either go Bolt and keep the X5 or get the Model 3 and get rid of the Volt and X5.

My wife still has our mini SUV (a 2019 BMW X3 M40). There is a market difference in space between the X5 and a model 3. If you are used to sitting up higher I would suggest a model Y over a model 3, unless you simply want to be in a "sportier" driving / feeling model 3 (and save a bit of cash). I wouldnt own a bolt, myself, but a lot of people like them. My model 3 P was in place of buying a BMW M3 in 2018, when I got it. I dont regret it at all, but they are different.

My wifes X3 is a very nice vehicle, well put together, we ordered it with almost every option available, so its the color we wanted, has every option we wanted etc. I used to love driving it before I got my model 3, and now I pretty much cant stand driving it. Getting used to electric vehicle torque is absolutely "a thing".

Going from an SUV to a car is jarring for some people. If the X5 is your daily, consider the Y unless you have made peace with the vast difference in carrying capacity (but vast difference in general operating costs as well).

 

[RayK]

I could either go Bolt and keep the X5 or get the Model 3 and get rid of the Volt and X5.

I don't think you'll get much encouragement going with a Bolt here at TMC . And if you get a Model 3 to replace the Volt, what's to keep you from retaining the X5? Were it me and I already had an X5 (assuming bought and paid for), I'd keep it for the times that you may want to go far from a Supercharger. The 3 can get you cross-country but there are still a few areas where the next Supercharger may only be (easily and without drama) reachable with a LR.

 

[Sunny5280]

Thank you all once again. Regarding the Bolt...it is an option I was considering to go completely electric. I bought the Volt to give electric technology a try without having to worry about range anxiety. Since owning it I find myself using the X5 for long range driving and the Volt for day to day driving. The Volt is great for that purpose but it has the downside of having the maintenance of two different drivetrains (with the ICE portion being more maintenance intensive). The Volt is pretty peppy given it has no desire to be a performance vehicle.

Having now gained experience with an electric vehicle for three years (the Volt is a 2018 model) I think moving to pure electric might be something to consider. A few months ago a brand new Bolt, though stripped down, could be purchased new for $22K (no credit, that was the selling price). This got me to thinking maybe I should consider moving to a pure electric vehicle. Essentially I would exchange the Volt for a Bolt and everything else remains the same.

Then I got to thinking...maybe I should go with a Model 3 as they get rave reviews and, if I got the Performance model, I could get the best of both worlds (performance and pure electric driving) with one vehicle. Problem is I have never driving a Tesla and don't know if I would like it (I will test drive one before buying).

In addition to the Volt and X5 I also have a 2011 Outback 3.6R which is my "beater" vehicle. Thus if I swap the Volt and X5 for the Model 3 I still have an ICE vehicle for utilitarian purposes and the pure electric / performance of the Model 3.

Then there's the new versus used debate. Used vehicles appear to be ridiculously expensive. Some of the used Model 3 Performance cars I've seen are only slightly less than buying new (I assume the higher priced used vehicles have more features). Then there's the LR versus Performance. Despite my X5 being th M version I hardly ever approach its potential (I don't think I've ever put it into angry mode). So maybe the additional range of the LR would make more sense than the Performance.

Ahhh...first world problems

 

[jjrandorin]

Thank you all once again. Regarding the Bolt...it is an option I was considering to go completely electric. I bought the Volt to give electric technology a try without having to worry about range anxiety. Since owning it I find myself using the X5 for long range driving and the Volt for day to day driving. The Volt is great for that purpose but it has the downside of having the maintenance of two different drivetrains (with the ICE portion being more maintenance intensive). The Volt is pretty peppy given it has no desire to be a performance vehicle.

Having now gained experience with an electric vehicle for three years (the Volt is a 2018 model) I think moving to pure electric might be something to consider. A few months ago a brand new Bolt, though stripped down, could be purchased new for $22K (no credit, that was the selling price). This got me to thinking maybe I should consider moving to a pure electric vehicle. Essentially I would exchange the Volt for a Bolt and everything else remains the same.

Then I got to thinking...maybe I should go with a Model 3 as they get rave reviews and, if I got the Performance model, I could get the best of both worlds (performance and pure electric driving) with one vehicle. Problem is I have never driving a Tesla and don't know if I would like it (I will test drive one before buying).

In addition to the Volt and X5 I also have a 2011 Outback 3.6R which is my "beater" vehicle. Thus if I swap the Volt and X5 for the Model 3 I still have an ICE vehicle for utilitarian purposes and the pure electric / performance of the Model 3.

Then there's the new versus used debate. Used vehicles appear to be ridiculously expensive. Some of the used Model 3 Performance cars I've seen are only slightly less than buying new (I assume the higher priced used vehicles have more features). Then there's the LR versus Performance. Despite my X5 being th M version I hardly ever approach its potential (I don't think I've ever put it into angry mode). So maybe the additional range of the LR would make more sense than the Performance.

Ahhh...first world problems

The difference in range between the LR and P is the default tires. If driven the same, with the same tires, they will get the same approximate range. Buying used tesla model 3s doesnt make a lot of sense to me, in general, because there is not the savings you see with (for example) buying a used BMW. Especially right now, some used model 3s sell for MORE than new, due to the overheated used car market.

Buying used wont be a huge bargain, for sure. At best you might save a few thousand dollars (and right now, maybe not even that).

 

[Sunny5280]

The difference in range between the LR and P is the default tires. If driven the same, with the same tires, they will get the same approximate range. Buying used tesla model 3s doesnt make a lot of sense to me, in general, because there is not the savings you see with (for example) buying a used BMW. Especially right now, some used model 3s sell for MORE than new, due to the overheated used car market.

Buying used wont be a huge bargain, for sure. At best you might save a few thousand dollars (and right now, maybe not even that).

This has been my thought. The only significant option is AP and I'm not too interested in that. Certainly not to pay the asking premium new or used. Are there any other options available which would change the price of the vehicle? Seems AP and color are the only variables (at least on the Tesla website)

 

[jjrandorin]

This has been my thought. The only significant option is AP and I'm not too interested in that. Certainly not to pay the asking premium new or used. Are there any other options available which would change the price of the vehicle? Seems AP and color are the only variables (at least on the Tesla website)

The only options Are exterior color, interior color, a couple different size wheel options (on non performance vehicles, when new) and if used, whether the vehicle has autopilot, enhanced autopilot, or full self driving. If new, only AP and FSD are available in the US. If used, depending on year, vehicle could have one of those three options as far as drivers aids.

 

[focher]

The other way to identify a Performance is if it has Track Mode in the menu.

 

[oreobbq]

Used prices are definitely high at the moment. I've been seeing a lot of not so great reviews about Tesla Vision and its effect on AP. So maybe that's something to consider if you plan on using AP frequently.

 

[Sunny5280]

The only options Are exterior color, interior color, a couple different size wheel options (on non performance vehicles, when new) and if used, whether the vehicle has autopilot, enhanced autopilot, or full self driving. If new, only AP and FSD are available in the US. If used, depending on year, vehicle could have one of those three options as far as drivers aids.

I was thinking white on white without the FSD. I like to drive and I am not a big fan of all these safety / auto driving features (in any road vehicle). Especially not to pony up an additional $10K on what appears to be an incomplete offering (I've learned never to buy something with the promise it will do something in the future). Total price, without the incentives, is $58K + taxes. Two year old used vehicles are going for slightly less. Perhaps that would be reasonable if they had the FSD included.

 

[MrG_NY]

Any new Model 3 will have AP. For the difference in price I couldn't justify going with the Performance since I wouldn't be tracking it and the need to swap out the summer tires for all seasons or winter tires for the winter. We went with a LR with 19's and couldn't be happier. It still walks all over most cars due to instant power.

Now with FSD being available as a subscription you could just pay the 199 for a month if you are doing a long trip.