Having issues connecting my Tesla Wall Charger V3 to wifi. After successfully scanning the QR code on the front page of the Quick Connect Guide and entering the password, when I attempt to scan or manually enter the server address on the last page of the setup guide (192.xxx.x.x), I receive a message that the server is not responding. Tried shutting cellular data on my iPhone, but still get the same message resulting in not being able to configure the Wall Connector to the 60 amp circuit breaker and consequently not being hooked up to my Wifi network. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get the unit hooked up to Wifi?
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Connecting Wall Charger to Wifi
- Thread starter d.marks48
- Start date
You first need to connect to the Wall Connector using the Wall Connector's built-in WiFi hot spot and your phone, tablet or laptop to configure the Wall Connector. As part of the setup of the Wall Connector you will want to add your local WiFi for internet access. The reason you need access to your local WiFi with internet access is for Tesla over the air updates. In the future the Wall Connector will be able to use the WiFi internet connection for things such as load balancing when using multiple Wall Connectors on a single circuit and for billing.
I would try first provisioning the Wall Connector, setting the circuit amperage and if desired changing the password. Save the changes. Once you have the correct circuit amperage saved you can later update the Wall Connector configuration with the local WiFi information.
Tesla Gen3 Wall Connector Installation video (fast forward to 10:44 for connecting to the Wall Connector from your phone.):
I would try first provisioning the Wall Connector, setting the circuit amperage and if desired changing the password. Save the changes. Once you have the correct circuit amperage saved you can later update the Wall Connector configuration with the local WiFi information.
Tesla Gen3 Wall Connector Installation video (fast forward to 10:44 for connecting to the Wall Connector from your phone.):
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Got it, finally! Moved my iPhone right next to the Wall Connector and it immediately went through the full configuration steps. Apparently the signal broadcast by the Connector is not very strong and the phone needs to almost touch it in order to do the complete setup.
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Wonder if the wifi antenna wasn't plugged in in some Gen3's.. its described in the first post of my teardown.
Gen3 HPWC disassembly, with overheating issues explained!
Caution: Wall of text ahead! So, I got a secondhand Gen3 HPWC (TPN:1457768-01-F) that had known issues at full power and of course ran it right up to 48 amps to see what she'd do(note it had updated firmware). For a little while it did 48 amps, but after a half hour in my 20f garage, it...
teslamotorsclub.com
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Commissioning is required if you haven't connected it to a 60 amp breaker/wire, because that's the default.
Its still a good idea to commission anyway, if only to get it on your wifi signal and have it do firmware updates.
Its still a good idea to commission anyway, if only to get it on your wifi signal and have it do firmware updates.
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Cyberspeed
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make sure your wifi on your device does not switch wifi networks back to your regular wifi b/c of no data on the wall connector. android asks to switch and you click stay connected. not sure about IOS. You can also use a laptop, ipad, etc...
here is a YT I did recently showing the process.
here is a YT I did recently showing the process.
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I am not sure what that means! I have attached it to the breaker in the house. I just don't wanna do that extra step if it's not mandatory but I'll wait for response
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Cyberspeed
Member
you can change charging amperage on wall connector. if not using 60a (wire & breaker) you will need to turn it down via software to your wiring setup.
also firmware upgrades (not sure what changes but better to stay up to date)
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You'll find out if you need to provision it when the breaker trips
If you attached it to the breaker in the house, and you don't know what kind of breaker/wire you used, you probably should not be using the HPWC until an electrician checks your work. If you are lucky, the breaker is rated LOW enough so the wire doesn't become a firestarter while you are sleeping.
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An electrician did coke out and install it! I didn't do it myself lolYou'll find out if you need to provision it when the breaker trips
If you attached it to the breaker in the house, and you don't know what kind of breaker/wire you used, you probably should not be using the HPWC until an electrician checks your work. If you are lucky, the breaker is rated LOW enough so the wire doesn't become a firestarter while you are sleeping.
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You'll find out if you need to provision it when the breaker trips
If you attached it to the breaker in the house, and you don't know what kind of breaker/wire you used, you probably should not be using the HPWC until an electrician checks your work. If you are lucky, the breaker is rated LOW enough so the wire doesn't become a firestarter while you are sleeping.
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Whats the number on the breaker it is attached to in your breaker box? If the number is "60" on that breaker / breakers tied together, then you dont need to commission it. If that number is anything other than 60, you do.
EDIT: you posted that at the same time I was posting. because its a 60 amp circuit, you dont "need" to commission it. You still should, so that it can get updates that tesla pushes out whenever they do that, but you dont "have" to.
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Strange thing happened to me - I did install with #6AWG romex and a 40-amp breaker, but I plugged my Model Y in before I commissioned it. It said "Charging at 48 amps" and it did not pop the breaker! I let it go for a while, and felt the wire, which was getting slightly warm but not hot. It is a brand new SquareD QO double 40A breaker, it seems like it should have tripped! After watching it for a while, I bumped the charging current down to 40A to finish the first charge. Then later I commissioned the wall connector and told it that I used a 40A breaker, which changed the max amps to 32. I plan to swap out the 40A with a 50A breaker and have 40A be the max charging current. The run is less than 15 feet from my main panel, and the romex just goes through my cool crawlspace so there's easy heat dissipation, so I'm sure I could get away with 48 amp charging if I wanted to, but I also have a Mitsubishi double stack Hyperheat heat pump as my sole heat source for the house and with coil electric range, electric water heater, electric dryer, etc., I don't need to push it with my 200A service.
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I would suspect the Square D breaker was bad. A breaker rated for 40A should immediately trip when the current exceeds 40A by even a fraction of amp, even for an instant.
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This is incorrect.
https://download.schneider-electric...awing&p_File_Name=730-12.pdf&p_Doc_Ref=730-12 suggests that you could get 10+ seconds of usage out of a 40 amp 2 pole square D breaker even when operated at DOUBLE the rated current. Some breakers may even allow that same current through for 100 seconds before tripping.
Overshooting at 48 instead of 40 amps MIGHT not even result in a trip after 10000 seconds on some random sampling of breakers. Even overloading by 40% seems to not guarantee a trip(this is a surprise to me!)
https://electrical-engineering-portal.com/time-current-curves gives some information on how to read the curve. Its referring to a much larger current breaker, but the principles are the same.
I'm sure that at least some of this behavior is intentional. You don't want a momentary and expected motor-start overload to be tripping the breaker, and you don't want to have to overspec the wire and breaker for a short term expected overload. I gotta say that 10+ seconds doesn't seem like a short-term motor-start condition, but I'm not a breaker designer. I trust that they've figured out how much excess power can flow through the conductors before they begin to overheat in a meaningful way and are designing toward that.
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https://goodsonengineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/CircuitBreakerMyths_web.pdf
Article includes a table of allowed times for tripping the circuit breaker at 200% of rated amperage. Depending on the rating of the breaker, up to 30 amps: 2 minutes, 31 -50 amps: 4 minutes, 51 - 100 amps: 6 minutes. Usually the manufacturer's published curves are shorter than what the NEMA specification allows.
A GFCI will instantly trip when there is a even a small milliamp level current imbalance in the circuit or when current is detected on the ground connector.
Article includes a table of allowed times for tripping the circuit breaker at 200% of rated amperage. Depending on the rating of the breaker, up to 30 amps: 2 minutes, 31 -50 amps: 4 minutes, 51 - 100 amps: 6 minutes. Usually the manufacturer's published curves are shorter than what the NEMA specification allows.
A GFCI will instantly trip when there is a even a small milliamp level current imbalance in the circuit or when current is detected on the ground connector.
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