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Considering an early Model S

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Hi,
I'm a new user here. I have a Nissan Leaf and am considering a Tesla that qualifies for the used ev credit (I'm fixated on getting that government money). What I'm finding here in ATL is that for under 25k, I can get a 2017 75d - 90d with 125k miles and up. If I drop back to a 2015 85kwh, those are just over 20k. Periodically I will see earlier 2012 and 2013 P85 for maybe 13k but 200k miles on the odometer. On the one hand, I lean towards the newer models, but I'm hesitant to spend close to 20k for a 9 year old car with triple digit mileage. When I look at the older models, I think, for about 10k less, I'm saving a good chunk of what a battery replacement would cost (and presumably those models are closer to needing a replacement). And if the whole thing goes south, well I'm out 13k not 20.
The only specific concern I'm aware of with the oldest models is the battery protection, but I think Tesla rectified that. Most of my driving is local and very little fast charging.
Are there any other concerns about quality, etc on the earliest MS vehicles?
Thanks in advance!
Jon
 
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Hi,
I'm a new user here. I have a Nissan Leaf and am considering a Tesla that qualifies for the used ev credit (I'm fixated on getting that government money). What I'm finding here in ATL is that for under 25k, I can get a 2017 75d - 90d with 125k miles and up. If I drop back to a 2015 85kwh, those are just over 20k. Periodically I will see earlier 2012 and 2013 P85 for maybe 13k but 200k miles on the odometer. On the one hand, I lean towards the newer models, but I'm hesitant to spend close to 20k for a 9 year old car with triple digit mileage. When I look at the older models, I think, for about 10k less, I'm saving a good chunk of what a battery replacement would cost (and presumably those models are closer to needing a replacement). And if the whole thing goes south, well I'm out 13k not 20.
The only specific concern I'm aware of with the oldest models is the battery protection, but I think Tesla rectified that. Most of my driving is local and very little fast charging.
Are there any other concerns about quality, etc on the earliest MS vehicles?
Thanks in advance!
Jon
What's your budget? If you can get a new Model Y with the tax credit then that might be better. My Model S from 2012 did great with minimal issues but didn't have any of the autopilot hardware.

But sounds like you're just looking at used Model S only. They are great cars. As long as you know what you're getting into with potential repairs you should be good. I think if you can find a car for $15,000 and under and hopefully get 2 trouble free years out of it, might work. But of course all out of warranty so you never know.
 
Thanks, I have rented Model 3's several times and they definitely have advantages of newer technology, one pedal driving (which even my 2018 Leaf has but not until 2019 with Model s). My issue is that our lifestyle is more of a hatchback type, not a sedan. Golf clubs, the occasional kayak, etc. I'm also not a fan of the 'ipad stuck to the dashboard', but that's not a deal killer.
Other than the battery going out, are there specific big ticket repairs on the older MS? I probably drive 9k a year, all downtown stop and go.
 
In terms of other big ticket items, the large rear drive motor on the original RWD versions or the later P-versions of the dual motor design are known to be suspect to a seal failure in the rear drive motor that allows coolant ingestion and motor failure. I believe that's around a 5k repair if done through Tesla. Also the earlier MS seem to have issues related to the battery heater failing at times, with that being a 2-3k repair if I recall.

If you go for one of the non-P AWD models and say 2015 or 2016 versus 2012-2014, I think you avoid a few risks like those. So maybe balancing cost, maybe look at say a 2016 non-P AWD version?
 
In terms of other big ticket items, the large rear drive motor on the original RWD versions or the later P-versions of the dual motor design are known to be suspect to a seal failure in the rear drive motor that allows coolant ingestion and motor failure. I believe that's around a 5k repair if done through Tesla. Also the earlier MS seem to have issues related to the battery heater failing at times, with that being a 2-3k repair if I recall.

If you go for one of the non-P AWD models and say 2015 or 2016 versus 2012-2014, I think you avoid a few risks like those. So maybe balancing cost, maybe look at say a 2016 non-P AWD version?
Thanks that is good info to go with.
 
Thanks, I have rented Model 3's several times and they definitely have advantages of newer technology, one pedal driving (which even my 2018 Leaf has but not until 2019 with Model s). My issue is that our lifestyle is more of a hatchback type, not a sedan. Golf clubs, the occasional kayak, etc. I'm also not a fan of the 'ipad stuck to the dashboard', but that's not a deal killer.
Other than the battery going out, are there specific big ticket repairs on the older MS? I probably drive 9k a year, all downtown stop and go.
I'd lean towards a Model Y over a Model 3 then if getting new. But a used Model S would be a nice car.

But what PCMc said above sounds great. I didn't keep close track of all the different changes but my 2012 was a great car. 11 years with no major problems.
 
2016-2018 is a sweet spot for value and reliability, particularly for the non-performance “D” cars (75D, 90D, 100D).

The small drive units on these cars have proven quite reliable. Most of the early battery problems were resolved by that point.

I put 175,000 miles on a 2016 S75. It was very reliable.
 
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Interesting thread

I am also Looking into a 2nd hand MS

Would the increased reliability also be applicable to pre face lift 2016 cars?

Is it better to look for a car with a replaced (reman) battery patck than one still with the original pack?
Maybe a reman pack with one or 2 modules swapped causes an imbalance in voltages resulting in higher deg?

Does the service menu in the car give more info on the pack somehow?

Cheers
 
Is it better to look for a car with a replaced (reman) battery patck than one still with the original pack?
Maybe a reman pack with one or 2 modules swapped causes an imbalance in voltages resulting in higher deg?
As I understand it, Tesla doesn't do module swaps when remanufacturing batteries. Some third party vendors might, but it isn't known to be a long term reliable practice.
 
I had a 2015 Model SD (85 kW) and drove it 100,000 miles then sold it to a friend a few years ago who is still driving it and reports no problems.
Battery degradation is minimal (<10%). Only repairs were to the door handles.
This is just my anecdotal experience. YMMV
 
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I had a 2015 Model SD (85 kW) and drove it 100,000 miles then sold it to a friend a few years ago who is still driving it and reports no problems.
Battery degradation is minimal (<10%). Only repairs were to the door handles.
This is just my anecdotal experience. YMMV
I found a 2015 that I really liked that had a hard roof (no glass). Our cars live outside and that would be appealing, but they want a little too much $ for it....
 
My Model S70D from 2015 only has 10% battery loss at about 100,000 miles. Besides replacing the air filter there has been no maintenance. I have replaced the 12 volt battery as expected and the tires. My only repairs under warranty were door handles many years ago.

Sometimes I think I want a new Tesla, but then I remember that my current car pretty much does just about all I would want. Sometimes I wish for more range than a max of 215 miles but there are so many more Superchargers today than there were when I bought the car. Also, I only do long drives over 200 miles 2 or 3 times a year.