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Custom Socket Tool for Refresh Front Plate License Screws

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Hey Guys,

I got my new S90D home yesterday and have had absolutely zero luck removing those two screws using 90-degree needlenose pliers. I looked into ordering one of the 3D-printed sockets, but found that they're not shipping until 12/31.

In the interest of immediate gratification, if anyone currently in possession of such a socket would like to either sell it on or loan it to me (entirely at my expense, of course), I'd be immensely grateful.

Ken
 
Hey Guys,

I got my new S90D home yesterday and have had absolutely zero luck removing those two screws using 90-degree needlenose pliers. I looked into ordering one of the 3D-printed sockets, but found that they're not shipping until 12/31.

Ken
Those pliers worked like a charm.....literally had both off in minutes as did many others here. Can you get your camera under there for a picture.....wonder if they've changed the pattern? PS - met a guy yesterday in a parking lot trying to remove his plate by removing the two screws you see when facing the plate. Just in case it faked you out too......its the two screws not visible as they are underneath the nose that need to be removed.
 
Those pliers worked like a charm.....literally had both off in minutes as did many others here. Can you get your camera under there for a picture.....wonder if they've changed the pattern? PS - met a guy yesterday in a parking lot trying to remove his plate by removing the two screws you see when facing the plate. Just in case it faked you out too......its the two screws not visible as they are underneath the nose that need to be removed.

Yep, I've got the correct bolts in mind. For what it's worth, I'm not exactly a mechanical imbecile. I've built two airplanes, a street-legal racecar, and restored a vintage motorcycle. If I'm having trouble removing these bolts, there's an issue somewhere.

I'm attaching a quick (and utterly crappy) photo to show one of the bolts in question. I think my issue is that my needlenose pliers don't come to a sufficiently fine point as to adequately engage the penalobe's detents. A new pair shall be acquired forthwith... :)
 

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  • Tesla front plate bolt.jpeg
    Tesla front plate bolt.jpeg
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For what it's worth, I'm not exactly a mechanical imbecile. I've built two airplanes, a street-legal racecar, and restored a vintage motorcycle. If I'm having trouble removing these bolts, there's an issue somewhere.

Honestly didn't mean to imply anything less, my apologies.
At least it looks like the same pattern. It would have been a bummer if they mixed it up on us.
 
Honestly didn't mean to imply anything less, my apologies.
At least it looks like the same pattern. It would have been a bummer if they mixed it up on us.

No offense taken at all; sorry if I sounded defensive. I just figured that my building experience would be a good data point vis-a-vis how challenging this bolt removal process has been.

I'll run out for the new pliers in an hour or two.
 
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Hey Guys,

I got my new S90D home yesterday and have had absolutely zero luck removing those two screws using 90-degree needlenose pliers. I looked into ordering one of the 3D-printed sockets, but found that they're not shipping until 12/31.

In the interest of immediate gratification, if anyone currently in possession of such a socket would like to either sell it on or loan it to me (entirely at my expense, of course), I'd be immensely grateful.

Ken

I used a 'homemade' tool. I started with a 6 point socket, 9mm is big enough. Get some tape, grease/oil, and JB Weld. Put a small piece of tape in the bottom of the socket to keep the JB Weld from leaking into the driver end of the socket. Then fill the socket 3/4 or so full with JB Weld. Apply oil/grease release agent to the head of the bolt, and surrounding area. Put the socket over the bolt head and tape in place. You will want some towels or tape covering the paint below the socket as the JB Weld may drip. Leave the socket for 4-5 hours, or however long the packaging says. when hardened you are set to remove those pesky 5 lobe bolts.
 
I was giving this whole bolt removal issue some more thought and it occurred to me that I already had the ideal tool (short of a custom socket, that is): a whole set of snap ring pliers. That did the trick in no time at all. Job done!

Thanks for all the great suggestions!
 
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I used a 'homemade' tool. I started with a 6 point socket, 9mm is big enough. Get some tape, grease/oil, and JB Weld. Put a small piece of tape in the bottom of the socket to keep the JB Weld from leaking into the driver end of the socket. Then fill the socket 3/4 or so full with JB Weld. Apply oil/grease release agent to the head of the bolt, and surrounding area. Put the socket over the bolt head and tape in place. You will want some towels or tape covering the paint below the socket as the JB Weld may drip. Leave the socket for 4-5 hours, or however long the packaging says. when hardened you are set to remove those pesky 5 lobe bolts.
This is a great idea! Wish I had thought of it before buying the pliers.
Also took them off with pliers but then had to deal with the VHB tape, pulling on it was no use and was about to pull out the heat gun when I thought of using the "zero emissions" insert that came with the frame to "slice" through the tape. Worked like a charm and with no scratches or dents in the paint!
 
I tried my snap ring pliers but there was not enough force in the spring to hold on to the bolt. Bought a pair of bent-nose pliers, but the only ones I could find at the hardware store on a Saturday night we 45-degree angle without really pointy ends. Those did not work. Anyone willing to sell me the "Tesla License Plate Socket Adapter" they bought for $10. I went to order one from the site and the shipping is high, so the one-time use tool will cost me $25 USD. I'm in California.
 
You can just snap the bracket off the bolts. On my first Tesla I used the 90 degrees and they kept slipping and it took 15 mins but I finally got them out. Tape was a pain as well. This time I just pulled hard to separate the bracket from the tape and it came off clean and then I bent the bracket up and down several times then held closer to the bolts and pushed the bracket down and it popped right off the bolts. The bolts then unscrewed easily by hand. The tape was in one piece. I picked a corner and stretched and pulled (constantly re-gripping to keep the hold close to the fender) and the tape pulled off completely clean. Took 30 secs at most. No pliers, no tools, no alcohol and blow dryers no goo be gone and almost zero effort. To be fair I wouldn’t have tried it if someone hadn’t gone before me but i’ll be damned if it didn’t work as advertised.
 
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So, thanks to Btrflyl8e who was gracious enough to send me a sample screw, I've designed simple little socket adapter that will remove these screws. The socket design has a recess for the wacko 5-lobed security screw and a 1/4 inch recess on the other side that will fit onto a 1/4 inch drive ratchet or Allen wrench or nut driver. I tried to keep it small, simple and affordable.

It's currently being 3D printed by Shapeways.com out of stainless steel. I'm getting one in about a week or test and if it passes muster I'll offer it up for sale on Shapeways. Not looking to really make a profit on this. I just want to provide a service to the community. And because I think these screws are stupid. I will keep everyone posted.

-Jim

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Great idea using the 3D printer. My son has access to one. Can you forward that 3D print file?
 
View attachment 205934 View attachment 205935

I used a 'homemade' tool. I started with a 6 point socket, 9mm is big enough. Get some tape, grease/oil, and JB Weld. Put a small piece of tape in the bottom of the socket to keep the JB Weld from leaking into the driver end of the socket. Then fill the socket 3/4 or so full with JB Weld. Apply oil/grease release agent to the head of the bolt, and surrounding area. Put the socket over the bolt head and tape in place. You will want some towels or tape covering the paint below the socket as the JB Weld may drip. Leave the socket for 4-5 hours, or however long the packaging says. when hardened you are set to remove those pesky 5 lobe bolts.

Thank you for this info! Worked like a charm. Way better than waiting weeks for the Shapeways tool.