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Cybertruck Range Edmunds Test
- Thread starter T3SLAROD
- Start date
TessP100D
Active Member
If you turn off CM, it will help. Yes sir.
But as you full well know it will still loose range due to vampire drain.
Just stop. You know that
The point is that ICE DO HAVE vampire drain. You do know what vampire drain is don't you? It's electronics that stay alive.
How do you think that the key fob works? There's a receiver continuously listening and requiring power.
There are cellular devices running in many cars. There are alarms systems running.
There's just a bunch of stuff running in any car these days contributing to vampire drain.
Tesla was smart and dumb with it's computer design. It was smart in that centralized control fixes a lot of problems. It was dumb because these computers are powerful and pull a lot of current.
Teslas have been left for long periods of time without power, with no issues. It's sentry mode that's the big problem. And people seem to want Sentry on when at the airport. And no other ICE has a solution like Sentry Mode.
I've told people the same. Driving an EV has absolutely made me a better (safer) driver, and this guy has owned several fast sports cars . I ease off the accelerator in advance of a stop or slowdown, and let regen do the work. I wouldn't want another vehicle without it.
Something's wrong then. My 3 doesn't do anything of the sort.
Is it below ~20F in Texas often? At below ~10 or 15F the loss is profound. Don’t used to be this way. It’s a known issue after one of the cold weather updates in the last year or so.
No, essentially never. Of course you said nothing about temp in the post I was replying to...
TessP100D
Active Member
Just stop.
ICE will not loose range. The gas that’s in the tank will still be there in a month when you get back from your trip
That won’t happen in an EV. You know that.
ICE computers will drain the battery if left long enough, but they won’t loose range.
Tesla also has 12V batteries and they go bad too But I’m not concerned about that.
Mike drop.
Does it really matter if the ICE battery is dead that there's gas in the tank?
Oh, so just charge the battery you say?
Just like an EV.
And how do you think that the batter in an ICE gets charged in normal use? Yep, it uses gas.
As I said, ALL CARS have vampire drains today.
I wanted to get a picture to show this. You also can’t charge at below about 15F on a 110 outlet.
This was Wednesday. I left my heated garage at 75%. Made it to work 7 miles (and 1000 vertical feet down) later with 70% and it was 8F, plugged into a block heater outlet. 9 hours later and now 17F had gained 1% and the car showed >24 hours to get to my charge limit of 75%. So >24 hours to charge 4%.
My battery was not cold soaked when I plugged in (no snowflake).
Attachments
Vampire drain in the context of this discussion is losing range while parked and sitting there. In this context ICEs do not have vampire drain until they have sat long enough for the gas in the tank to go bad or the lines to fowl out, or the tank to rust out, so at least a year.
I don’t park at work and lose 10% of my gas in the tank or park at may cabin for the weekend and lose 20-25% of my gas in the tank.
Are EVs superior to ICE in most ways, yes. Even with this, do I drive my Tesla over my LX570 most days, yes.
But EVs have vampire drain, they are good but not perfect.
israndy
Supercharger Hunter
This is the DUMBEST discussion, isn't there an admin reading this that should be popping in and directing us back on topic?
If you unplug the traction battery in an EV it will have no vampire drain, but the 12v Leadacid battery will die, just like an ICE so WHY are people arguing back and forth? Is this a last gasp from ICE lovers trying to show relevance?
If you unplug the traction battery in an EV it will have no vampire drain, but the 12v Leadacid battery will die, just like an ICE so WHY are people arguing back and forth? Is this a last gasp from ICE lovers trying to show relevance?
Daniel in SD
(supervised)
It’s a question magnitude. My Model 3 would kill the 12V much more quickly than my ICE vehicle. Though they’ve made huge improvements in the standby power since I got it.
And in certain weather conditions the traction battery would be damaged.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
I think some clarity on what you are seeing would be good.
It’s unclear to me what is happening in this case. Even in very cold temps you should not be losing that sort of range, assuming the car is sleeping. I have not seen anything like this but have no experienced these temperatures. Other have though (@AAKEE for example) and have not seen this reported.
Yes. Definitely need high power outlets for EVs in cold climates.
It’s an ongoing question what those conditions would be. It is possible it warms the pack below -30C or attempts to cool it above 60C. But I am not sure we know. Doesn’t really make sense that it would be damaged since it will only be able to warm it for a very limited period. Though it might simultaneously cry for help.
Agreed that vampire drain is still too high. It apparently is even lower on new vehicles with the Lithium ~16V pack, though I have not seen a final report from @rrolsbe . But it can go several days between wakeups or something, which would imply “just” a couple watts I think. (Order of magnitude higher than necessary probably.)
Feature drain should be lower too. That is a bit of a screw up.
I did’nt get which post to begin to read.
Neither my M3P (’21) last winter and before or my MSP this winter have lost any charge while parked outside in real cold.
As I work away for ~ one week at the time and have the car outside during this in real cold ( down to -42C this winter) I even have to start charging to cope with the manual’s maximum one day in -30C or colder.
I know the car still sleeps at -41C with no battery heat at least until the battery temp is -20C. (Around this values I have started charging just to heat the battery without any loss of SOC.
The displayed SOC reduces when the battery is cold but that is only how Tesla elect to display it. The measured SOC is still the same as the warm SOC, so it is a active choice to display a lower SOC.
I iniw from Swedish forums/facebook that this reduction of dispkayed range often is misstaken as battery heating or other types of phantom drain.
My M3P had about 1% loss per week, summer or winter, if the car was let sleeping with not too much door opening and wakening. Three weeks away in summer costed about 2%.
One week with my MSP (lithium LV batt) use about 0.1% or 0.1kWh per day, so slightly less than 1% a week.
Had the car at work for one week, first days was very cold, ended up charging to warm the battery.
After this: 40% in the morning of 26th jan.
Most days between looked like this:
Some day the car woke for ~ short time to charge the Lv batt. I also went ibto the car sbd che ked the cell temp etc s few times - wakes up and the heater starts running.
Ended up like this when I got of my shift:
So from friday morning until tuesday evening the car used ~1.5%, of which a little came from cabin heat when I woke the car. This was a quite cold week, ~ -20C
What’s happening below -20C cell temp, I do not know and I will not check that either.
I know lithium batteries are safe to -20C so I wont let them get colder than that.
When we have -20 to -25C I just let the car be, and have no issues, nor any phantom drain.
TessP100D
Active Member
TessP100D
Active Member
TessP100D
Active Member
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