Dashcam Install Help

[clx]

It turns off after 5 minutes of leaving the car. Not immediate. After you leave the car (bluetooth distance away)...you will hear the car click and it goes to sleep.

Thanks, I’ve tested it again tonight and it seems that the car took a lot longer than 5 mins to turn off those powers (waited like 10 mins it’s still on). Eventually it turned off, but any ping from the phone app (with BT disabled, just by checking the car’s status over WiFi) will make that power from footwell comes back and need to wait for a while again for the power to go away.

If the footwell power can behave more like the cigarette jack where it shut off immediately when the car is locked, it would be better for my dashcam since it will kick off parking mode recording right away. Oh well, I guess it would work for now until someone else can find a better location for a switched power source.

 

[Jason Bourne]

I believe you're looking for this Hard-wiring Power Cable - BlackVue
Will allow you to hardwire the camera to the 12V battery without having to cut/splice wires. Otherwise, you'd have to cut the wires (where the cigarette lighter plug is) and get a fuse to go between the cam and battery, or use something like power magic pro or power magic battery.

You could also use something like this, then plug the normal power cable in to this adapter.

 

[clx]

I’ve installed a Thinkware F750 (same wiring as F770 and F800) which requires a switched 12v wire (for activating parking mode) in addition to a constant 12v power source. Figured i will share some pictures for anyone who’s interested.

I’ve tapped into the 12v battery in the frunk with direct connection, and a red wire located in the front passenger footwell area for the switched 12v source. Since the wiring cable already included a fuse for both the constant 12v and switched 12v wire, no additional fuse connection is required.

Here are some pictures attached.

The yellow wire (labeled BATT) connects directly to the positive lead of the battery. And the black wire (labeled GND) connects to the negative lead of the battery.

Pry open the rubber sealing, fished the wire next to the edge of the rubber from the frunk into the front passenger footwell area.

Another shot of the rubber sealing from inside the car, in the front passenger footwell area.


For tapping into the switched 12v source from the front passenger area, I used Posi Tap which I think it’s a bit easier to work with and less intrusive to the original wire. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CMC5DII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8E-FAbKZ5SN4J)

 

[Akikiki]

clx, nice pictures, good description. Many thanks in behalf of M 3 owners.

 

[K-MTG]

I’ve installed a Thinkware F750 (same wiring as F770 and F800) which requires a switched 12v wire (for activating parking mode) in addition to a constant 12v power source. Figured i will share some pictures for anyone who’s interested.

I’ve tapped into the 12v battery in the frunk with direct connection, and a red wire located in the front passenger footwell area for the switched 12v source. Since the wiring cable already included a fuse for both the constant 12v and switched 12v wire, no additional fuse connection is required.

Here are some pictures attached.

View attachment 279606
The yellow wire (labeled BATT) connects directly to the positive lead of the battery. And the black wire (labeled GND) connects to the negative lead of the battery.


View attachment 279607
Pry open the rubber sealing, fished the wire next to the edge of the rubber from the frunk into the front passenger footwell area.


View attachment 279608
Another shot of the rubber sealing from inside the car, in the front passenger footwell area.


For tapping into the switched 12v source from the front passenger area, I used Posi Tap which I think it’s a bit easier to work with and less intrusive to the original wire. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CMC5DII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8E-FAbKZ5SN4J)

Looks great! I would still put a fuse as close to the battery as possible...just in case the wire gets split or cut.

 

[lunitiks]

Excellent writeup @clx

 

[Akikiki]

clx, I would recommend K-MTG's advice. Its a good idea and adds to the safety of your car, camera and battery.

 

[lunitiks]

I agree. We always do this on audio installs. The fuse is there to protect the wire - not the component. (Well actually, the fuse protects the car from the wire.) If the wire gets damaged or accidentally shorts it could turn the wire into a light bulb filament Remember to get the right fuse.

 

[clx]

Looks great! I would still put a fuse as close to the battery as possible...just in case the wire gets split or cut.

Thanks for the reminder. I’ve used the hardwire kit from blackboxmycar.com that actually has one inline fuse on the 12v constant power wire and another inline fuse for the switched power source. The fuse is about 1 foot from the connection end to the battery, is this close enough to the battery?

By the way, I’ve used a 14 AWG wire to connect the switched power source to the hardwire kit’s 22 AWG wire, since the front passenger footwell is pretty far from the battery in the frunk where all the hardwire kit’s wire connectors are located. The inline fuse is on the 22 AWG wire about 1 foot from the hardwire kit wire’s connection, is this OK?

 

[K-MTG]

Thanks for the reminder. I’ve used the hardwire kit from blackboxmycar.com that actually has one inline fuse on the 12v constant power wire and another inline fuse for the switched power source. The fuse is about 1 foot from the connection end to the battery, is this close enough to the battery?

By the way, I’ve used a 14 AWG wire to connect the switched power source to the hardwire kit’s 22 AWG wire, since the front passenger footwell is pretty far from the battery in the frunk where all the hardwire kit’s wire connectors are located. The inline fuse is on the 22 AWG wire about 1 foot from the hardwire kit wire’s connection, is this OK?

In that case..everything should be good to go! I thought you were using the original blackvue cable.

 

[Bruinfan]

So, when the 12v battery has to be replaced, how will you handle this?

Will Tesla reconnect? Do we have to go in and reconnect it ourselves? Thoughts on this?

 

[03DSG]

So, when the 12v battery has to be replaced, how will you handle this?

Will Tesla reconnect? Do we have to go in and reconnect it ourselves? Thoughts on this?

Not sure what your asking? Disconnect the old battery, remove and replace with a new battery and reconnect. Pretty straight forward. Either have a Tesla SC do it or source the battery and do it yourself.

 

[Bruinfan]

well, it would suck if i went in to replace the, and the SC didn't reattach the dashcam leads, then i would have to go take apart my car to do this, which I could probably do, but I would take a 10 min job and turn it into an hour, and be paranoid about killing myself the whole time...

will they say, "we don't do that"?


on another note, is this 12v easier to access than the S? from my understanding, accessing the S 12V is not super simple

 

[K-MTG]

well, it would suck if i went in to replace the, and the SC didn't reattach the dashcam leads, then i would have to go take apart my car to do this, which I could probably do, but I would take a 10 min job and turn it into an hour, and be paranoid about killing myself the whole time...

will they say, "we don't do that"?


on another note, is this 12v easier to access than the S? from my understanding, accessing the S 12V is not super simple

Takes 10 seconds after opening the frunk to access the 12V batter terminals.

 

[Akikiki]

No one can speak with absolute certainty what each service center will do. But after having an S for several years (5 now), its safe to say that a service center's policy is not to assist with after market gear. This includes not attaching or reattaching. I've been told by service center personnel, (not recently) that policy is do nothing to enhance or mod the car.

You should be aware, that when you take your Tesla in for service, dash cams are unplugged, disabled, turn off (usually where the power is plugged into the main and secondary cameras. And not reconnected when you pick up your car. Usually the remote access is also turned off while in a shop and often forgot to turn it back on. Many are going to complain that its "my dash cam" and I want to know if someone is out joy-riding in my car". Its going to do no good to debate whether they should turn off/unplug your dash cam. They simply do it, whether you like it or not. If yours doesn't get turn off/unplugged, then they missed it or forgot it. Just plug it back in and don' complain. "It ain't gonna help'.

Someone is going to jump in and say "well, they helped with mine'. Yeah - maybe, but not recently - I bet. Years ago, back in '12 and '13 for a brief time they were helping and charging for assistance with dash cams for instance, but that stopped. You have to find an aftermarket shop or learn to do this yourself. Find a buddy that's done his and ask him for help, then pay if forward.

 

[Az_Rael]

OK, finally got around to running my rear dash cam wiring for my Blackvue. Here is where I ran it:

Started by tucking it under the headliner, then over to the passenger A-pillar where I ran my power cord, using caution to avoid the airbag:

Then down to the floorboard on the passenger side:

Then along the harness clips on the floor rail:


Then tucked under the trim on the B-pillar to the rear seat area - I couldn't get this one off for some reason:



Then up the side of the rear seat:


Then along the trim to the rear window - had to take off the upper pillar trim to get this trim off.



Then back to the rear cam.


You can see the rear camera in the rearview mirror, but it isn't too distracting. Otherwise you have to run wire along the glass. I did have to place the camera with the view on my phone so I could avoid the defrost lines. Here is the view it has:

 

[zkmusa]

OK, finally got around to running my rear dash cam wiring for my Blackvue. Here is where I ran it:

Started by tucking it under the headliner, then over to the passenger A-pillar where I ran my power cord, using caution to avoid the airbag:
View attachment 281250
Then down to the floorboard on the passenger side:
View attachment 281251
Then along the harness clips on the floor rail:
View attachment 281252

Then tucked under the trim on the B-pillar to the rear seat area - I couldn't get this one off for some reason:
View attachment 281254
View attachment 281253

Then up the side of the rear seat:
View attachment 281255

Then along the trim to the rear window - had to take off the upper pillar trim to get this trim off.

View attachment 281256

Then back to the rear cam.
View attachment 281258

You can see the rear camera in the rearview mirror, but it isn't too distracting. Otherwise you have to run wire along the glass. I did have to place the camera with the view on my phone so I could avoid the defrost lines. Here is the view it has:
View attachment 281257

Thanks for posting. The pictures are very helpful, and I really like the idea of running the wire along the floorboard trims. Were the trims all pretty easy to remove (outside of the one you couldn't remove)? How would you rate the install compared to your other Teslas? I bought a Blackvue, but haven't decided whether this is a project I should tackle.

Also, what did you decide to do for the power source.. direct 12-volt connection or cigarette lighter?

 

[Az_Rael]

Thanks for posting. The pictures are very helpful, and I really like the idea of running the wire along the floorboard trims. Were the trims all pretty easy to remove (outside of the one you couldn't remove)? How would you rate the install compared to your other Teslas? I bought a Blackvue, but haven't decided whether this is a project I should tackle.

Also, what did you decide to do for the power source.. direct 12-volt connection or cigarette lighter?

It was easier than the S, mostly because the S uses those fiddley breaky clips everywhere. The 3 does use a few plastic pop rivets, so you have to have the right tool for those. Otherwise, it is fairly solid clips. Getting the bit of padded pleather next to the rear seat was the hardest piece to remove and to get back on.

I do the floorboard route to avoid the airbags and having to deal with them.

Power source is still the 12v power adapter in the center console. So no parking mode for me. I am a bit of a chicken when it comes to hooking directly to the battery, so I am skipping that for now.

With a nice set of plastic panel tools, the job is easy and you don’t scratch and damage stuff.

 

[Fezzik]

thanks for showing this. I'm not a fan of having wires like that. That wire is rubbing against bare metal and that can allow water to leak in. I'd poke a small hole in that cent gromet above the orange and run the wire through there.

 

[MacGreiner]

Usually the remote access is also turned off while in a shop and often forgot to turn it back on. .

I don't remember seeing an option on my 3 to allow/disallow remote access like on the S?