I would wait for Tesla to release the updated software and use the built in dashcam.
The problem is that no one knows how long that's going to be and some of us want the protection/evidence provided by a dashcam now.
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I would wait for Tesla to release the updated software and use the built in dashcam.
I read somewhere here on the forums that those folks who have used the Model 3 center console 12V outlet (either hard wired or with the cigarette lighter adapter) to power their Blackvue battery pack, that if they remotely turned on Climate Control, that the 12V powered up. You would then get 30 minutes of charge on the pack. I don't have my Model 3 yet to test....
Been reading through the thread and it primarily focuses on installing the Blackvue camera either with a professional or by one's self through a somewhat complicated process.
Is there no dash cam that could be plugged into the USB ports and wired by pushing it into the headliner? Or other methods that aren't as costly or time consuming?
Perhaps I've just been spoiled with my cars having a lighter port by the front passenger's feet area.
I also didn't want to do any hardwiring for the same reason. Who knows what unforeseen electrical problems may come up in the future. The last thing I want is a warranty claim to be denied because I altered the car's wiring.
I installed a wireless relay switch to turn on/off my dashcam after getting the idea from @Akikiki. I have a BlackVue B-112 battery, but the basic wiring is the same as the B-124. The dashcam connects to the battery using a regular 12V cigarette lighter adapter by way of a female 12V socket that plugs into the battery. You see the socket in this photo above the fuses.
It's a very easy project and solves the problem of running down the battery overnight when parked at home. For me, it's essential because my commute isn't long enough to fully power the battery from empty.
I transected the dashcam's power cord and wired the relay about a foot away from the cigarette adapter plug. Everything fits nicely in the forward part of the center console compartment under the armrest. (The B-124 is larger, so the compartment under the flip lid is probably a better place for it, but the only way to get wires in and out of there is to route a hole through the side of the compartment, which I also didn't want to do.)
I stuck the remote for the switch on my phone dock mat. If a passenger needs to use that charger, it's attached by Velcro and easily removed. There are a lot of ugly remotes out there and this one kind of matches the aesthetics of the car's interior at least. It's a little unsightly, but function wins out over form on this one. The remote can be put anywhere, but I needed it to be where I would see it and remind me to turn the dashcam off.
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ranova, You might find this useful for your situation. You can use the app to set a schedule or timer for on or off, and it has Alexa support, so you could be inside and "tell" it to turn on or off.This is a great idea.
If I wanted a 2 channel wireless relay switch, would this work:
https://www.amazon.com/eMylo-Wirele...&sr=1-16-spons&keywords=eMylo+2+channel&psc=1
I want the 2nd button to enable/disable power to my hotspot since it will turn off the wifi portion of the hotspot if nothing is connected within 5 minutes but if its awoken (either by a power source or pressing the power button), it enables the hotspot again. So I can quickly turn on or off the dashcam and/or hotspot.
I would connect the wifi hotspot to this 12V to 5v Converter kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C3DQRY0/ref=psdc_583328_t1_B01N4H5PNO
Would all this work?
This is a great idea.
If I wanted a 2 channel wireless relay switch, would this work:
https://www.amazon.com/eMylo-Wirele...&sr=1-16-spons&keywords=eMylo+2+channel&psc=1
I want the 2nd button to enable/disable power to my hotspot since it will turn off the wifi portion of the hotspot if nothing is connected within 5 minutes but if its awoken (either by a power source or pressing the power button), it enables the hotspot again. So I can quickly turn on or off the dashcam and/or hotspot.
I would connect the wifi hotspot to this 12V to 5v Converter kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C3DQRY0/ref=psdc_583328_t1_B01N4H5PNO
Would all this work?
I'm having some weird issues, which I'm not sure if it's because of my setup, or quirks in the Blackvue 750.
Saturday I didn't use my car until around 4pm.
When looking at what files the dashcam created, it created files for about 2 hours after I got home Friday night at 9, which makes sense, since my Blackvue Battery wouldn't have lasted that long after driving home.
So I had no files until about 3:00pm Saturday, and then it had like 15 minutes of video, and then nothing until I got in the car at 4.
How can It be without power for 18 hours, and then magically have power again without me doing anything?
I also have had weird things where I can look at the cams via the cloud, yet have no recordings at the same time.
ranova, You might find this useful for your situation. You can use the app to set a schedule or timer for on or off, and it has Alexa support, so you could be inside and "tell" it to turn on or off.
https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Inch...&sr=8-64&keywords=12V+Wireless+Remote+Control
That's definitely getting beyond my know-how as I'm not familiar with the power demands of a wi-fi hotspot. But, there's no reason you couldn't wire up the inverter on one channel and the dashcam on the other. If you have a battery in the mix (which is the whole point of needing a switch), you'd need to have two separate power sources--one for the battery/cam, the other for the inverter. You'd have to get a 12V socket splitter and another 12V accessory plug to power the inverter.
I installed my Blackvue &50s-2CH by myself to my cigarette port. Not complicated but took my time so I could do it well/right. I tucked wires in to the headliner around the windshield, behind weather strip in vertical door jams and under horizontal door sill on the floor (not above the door to be near airbags).Been reading through the thread and it primarily focuses on installing the Blackvue camera either with a professional or by one's self through a somewhat complicated process.
Is there no dash cam that could be plugged into the USB ports and wired by pushing it into the headliner? Or other methods that aren't as costly or time consuming?
Perhaps I've just been spoiled with my cars having a lighter port by the front passenger's feet area.
Thanks for the suggestions. Is there a way to create a switch that switches the Blackvue camera between regular 12V from the cigarette socket and the battery? I think that would be the most useful way since if you turn off the battery or create a switch to turn off the connection, you have to remember each time to turn it back on before you go on a drive. I find it really annoying that if you turn off the battery, it doesn't pass through power straight from the 12V.
If I could create a switch that switched between the regular 12V cig vs the battery, I wouldn't have to remember to turn it back on when I start driving - it should automatically power on when the screen is turned on
Below is a depiction of what Im trying to achieve: so no matter which I select, it will be on while driving.
Edit: did some research and I want a 12v SPDT switch? positive wire from the dash would go in terminal 2, and positive of each power source would go into terminals 1 or 3. Where does the negative wires go?
Thanks, I may have launched the app, but not the HVAC. And last night I specifically launched the HVAC for 15-20 minutes, and it didn't change anything.Did you do anything to wake up the car remotely? We already know turning on the HVAC from the app powers up the 12V accessory socket. Maybe doing other things remotely does too? Something must have woken up in the car to give power to the battery/camera for a short amount of time. Did you get the latest firmware update during that time? Maybe it was downloading or installing?
Thanks for the suggestions. Is there a way to create a switch that switches the Blackvue camera between regular 12V from the cigarette socket and the battery? I think that would be the most useful way since if you turn off the battery or create a switch to turn off the connection, you have to remember each time to turn it back on before you go on a drive. I find it really annoying that if you turn off the battery, it doesn't pass through power straight from the 12V.
If I could create a switch that switched between the regular 12V cig vs the battery, I wouldn't have to remember to turn it back on when I start driving - it should automatically power on when the screen is turned on
Below is a depiction of what Im trying to achieve: so no matter which I select, it will be on while driving.
Edit: did some research and I want a 12v SPDT switch? positive wire from the dash would go in terminal 2, and positive of each power source would go into terminals 1 or 3. Where does the negative wires go?
Thanks, I may have launched the app, but not the HVAC. And last night I specifically launched the HVAC for 15-20 minutes, and it didn't change anything.
I'm having all sorts of weird problems, Last night it stopped recording very soon after I parked, yet I was able to look in on the camera via the app for 5-6 hours.
Today, same thing. No recordings, but still able to look in. If I can look in, it means it hasn't died yet, yet it's not recording.
You'd still have to remember to flip the switch from one source to the other using a single-pole, double throw switch like the one you've linked. I guess I'm still not completely understanding what you want to do. Do you want to be able to manually shut down the whole battery/cam set up (like overnight for example) using a switch of some sort, but then have the power be restored automatically when it senses the 12V socket has turned back on?
This part sounds like expected behavior of parking mode, where it's not going to continue to record unless triggered by an event (detects motion or senses movement). It will be on and ready to record, so if you go to live view, you'll see it running. The point is to save wear on the SD card and recording when nothing is happening. If you want it to constantly record while parked, you need to disable auto switching to parking mode in the firmware settings so it will run in normal mode (continuous recording) all the time. The sensors at default are very sensitive, so sometimes you'll get recordings in parking mode when it looks like nothing has happened, but it was triggered by a subtle vibration or even changing of lighting or shadow.
Yep! basically.
The purpose was to have the dashcam ALWAYS record when I get into the car, even if the connection to the battery was switched off. The switches done before in this thread is just to turn off the connection from the Power Magic battery to the dash cam. So if you forgot to switch it on before a drive, it will not record anything. With a SPDT switch, if I switch it to 12v cig power, it will still start recording when I get into the car but not utilize the Power magic battery unless I switch it back. Since my current commute is only 5 minutes, I can't keep the Power magic ultra charged consistently unless I turn on preconditioning 30 minutes a day. So I would likely keep the switch switched to 12v power a majority of the time unless I'm parked in public places.
I ordered this SPDT switch, a soldering kit, and another cig power adapter. I will try it out today or tomorrow
Interesting idea. I actually think you want a double pole double throw (DPDT) switch (something like this: http://a.co/5JEfP5R).
The reason is: The Blackview and car batteries don't share a ground. Can be very dangerous to connect V+ of one to Ground of the other.
The setup should be like this:
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