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Dashcam Install Help

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I have been running my Blackvue 900 dual front-rear for 3+ months using the 12V tap (black-yellow) in the headliner at the emergency flasher button without a single problem. No shutdowns, goes into Parking Mode and resumes normal recording just fine. The Blackvue does not mind the drop to 9V. All good.

Anybody want to buy an unused new-in-box Blackvue battery pack? I bought it thinking I would need it, but have never installed it.

About to order a Blackvue 900 2-ch. Do you happen to have instructions on how to get to the flasher wiring? I feel comfortable running the cable from the rear camera - but that headliner scares me a bit. :-o
 
Howdy all, back in July, I hardwired my BlackVue by tapping into the center console 12V socket. A few days ago, that line suddenly died - any ideas what the issue could be, before I tear the car open again?
I've had the 12V line spontaneously cut out on me a few times. I think it's a software bug. Usually, getting out and back in the car resets it.
 
Update - last night, I had unplugged everything connected to the 12V line - the inverter in the center console socket and the battery. 12V still hasn't come back. I'm going to double-check the connection where I tapped in tonight. If that's OK, looks like I have another thing to bring up during service... :/
 
Update - last night, I had unplugged everything connected to the 12V line - the inverter in the center console socket and the battery. 12V still hasn't come back. I'm going to double-check the connection where I tapped in tonight. If that's OK, looks like I have another thing to bring up during service... :/
Does your inverter work? If so, you've either got a bad connection or a bad camera.
 
PSA: if you're tapping into the center console, don't leave the card reader unplugged when you leave. Turns out you can't unlock the car from the outside if you do. Bluetooth phone-key doesn't connect, keycard doesn't unlock the car, and mobile app won't unlock the car or open the frunk/trunk. You can turn on climate, flash the lights, and summon though... :oops:

Had to have Tesla Roadside assistance send out a tow truck to wedge the window down and open the manual release.
 
I also didn't want to do any hardwiring for the same reason. Who knows what unforeseen electrical problems may come up in the future. The last thing I want is a warranty claim to be denied because I altered the car's wiring.

I installed a wireless relay switch to turn on/off my dashcam after getting the idea from @Akikiki. I have a BlackVue B-112 battery, but the basic wiring is the same as the B-124. The dashcam connects to the battery using a regular 12V cigarette lighter adapter by way of a female 12V socket that plugs into the battery. You see the socket in this photo above the fuses.

It's a very easy project and solves the problem of running down the battery overnight when parked at home. For me, it's essential because my commute isn't long enough to fully power the battery from empty.

I transected the dashcam's power cord and wired the relay about a foot away from the cigarette adapter plug. Everything fits nicely in the forward part of the center console compartment under the armrest. (The B-124 is larger, so the compartment under the flip lid is probably a better place for it, but the only way to get wires in and out of there is to route a hole through the side of the compartment, which I also didn't want to do.)

I stuck the remote for the switch on my phone dock mat. If a passenger needs to use that charger, it's attached by Velcro and easily removed. There are a lot of ugly remotes out there and this one kind of matches the aesthetics of the car's interior at least. It's a little unsightly, but function wins out over form on this one. The remote can be put anywhere, but I needed it to be where I would see it and remind me to turn the dashcam off.

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Bumping my own post from last year. I'm sure most won't care since V9 enabled the built-in dashcam but maybe someone will find it helpful. The wireless relay switch (linked above) that I installed to switch my Blackvue on and off has died after about 10-11 months of near daily use. It still responds to the remote, but no current is flowing through it in the active state. It blew the 2V in-line fuse in my 12V power adapter plug. After replacing the fuse, it worked a couple of times before the fuse blew again. Rewiring the dashcam to bypass the switch has allowed me to keep the Blackvue functioning, but now I can't turn it off without unplugging it to stop the Blackvue B-112 battery from draining overnight.

I read some people reporting that 12V outlet is staying active since firmware 15.X (even with Sentry Mode off) and can confirm that it definitely does not stay active in my car. My Blackvue is off in the morning and starts up when I wake up the car.
 
I use very small low voltage RC pigtails/male/female connectors that allow me to easily/quickly add and remove/bypass relays, switches and power. And I found some very small LED lights with pigtails that allow me to tie them into where I use add on accessories or power even wireless relays so I can see if the device is getting power when I turn on the switch or the car. Sure, the device should power up, but just for things like the Front Camera Switch which is hidden in the dash, the LED below the cubby allows me to confirm that power is still going to it, just in case there's a hiccup. Takes 10 extra minutes to wire something like this in with the RC pigtails and remove it when needed.

SDKoala, I like to always have a spare wireless relay wired with the RC pigtails for those just in cases. Nice to be able to swap one out when I think there is a problem. Funny you know how Murphy messes with you? Well, having the spare/backup almost always assures you that you never need it. Wish I had known this stuff 50+ years ago.
 
Back when I was a wild late teen I was working at an airport. I captured a new helicopter control stick handle all with trigger switches and side buttons out of a Bell OH-13. Bundle of wires too. I wired it into my '68 Chevelle SS and replaced the floor shift ball with the handle. I controlled the amber fog lights, the added highbeams, the radio, 8-track player, brake and taillights and hi-pitched horn and Claxon horn from the hand grip handle. (Back in those days we used to routinely try to out run a Motorola, so turning off the brake and taillights was a must have.) Shocking the stuff we could make work without wireless relays. Used to pull the trigger on the stick tied to flash the foglights like a WWII Hellcat. Along before video games. Next best thing to playing with Stevie-the-stick.
 
SDKoala, I like to always have a spare wireless relay wired with the RC pigtails for those just in cases. Nice to be able to swap one out when I think there is a problem. Funny you know how Murphy messes with you? Well, having the spare/backup almost always assures you that you never need it. Wish I had known this stuff 50+ years ago.

That's exactly what I wish I did while I was working on it. I remember getting the idea from one of your earlier posts and thought I would get around to it. Obviously never did. Do you have a link for specific parts you'd recommend?
 
Yep, good to go back and wire them before needed. Think of the pigtail (male or female) like you do wall outlets and cord/extension cords. Get the end you are going to use for power from the car in your mind and do the same thing every time. I use the same stuff that hanklloydright on TMC uses. We have both posted these links before. You will find them in other threads.
These types, not necessarily only this source. I like these for the length.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WGN56V...olid=15HQ7GDPC8HGQ&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0722SCRH...olid=15HQ7GDPC8HGQ&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Splitters
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WJ9AM6...olid=15HQ7GDPC8HGQ&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Handy for no locked connections to puddle/logo lights too
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z04JJF...olid=15HQ7GDPC8HGQ&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XN7C4...olid=15HQ7GDPC8HGQ&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Wire connectors:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07114RK6...colid=9OCFTEIZ30RB&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072N7S3D...colid=9OCFTEIZ30RB&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Lights
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JT8ZLB...colid=GRF1IYFG0010&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Blade fuse holder
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XK4RNB...colid=L8H4OHOCK3AC&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
 
They've definitely changed the behavior of the switched 12V circuit. I had an aftermarket amp turn-on lead tapped into the 12V cig adapter line and noticed my amp was staying on up to an hour after I exited the car. This behavior changed in one of the recent firmware updates.