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Dashcam Install Help

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But TeslaCam only runs when the car is on. The resolution and FOV is suboptimal. There is no rear camera (...yet). And for now the USB jump drives are getting corrupted a lot. Also, if you want to save the video clip, you have to tap on the TeslaCam icon. No audio recording. No GPS mapping on the video. Not an optimal implementation. I rely on a good dual Blackvue now--maybe in a couple of years the TeslaCam will include all cameras 24/7, etc.

If you read the post of the person I quoted, you'll see he just wanted the basics with no need for 24/7 recording and to be easy to install. That's why I mentioned it and specified the limitations. If you need a quick/dirty dashcam, you can't beat the Tesla one. And at the cost of usually being free, there's no harm in trying it either.
 
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Honestly, the easiest solution is to just install a USB thumb drive with the TeslaCam folder and use the integrated one. The jury is still out if the latest firmware fixes the corrupt drive issue. If so, it's quick and does the job as needed. You don't get fancy features like speed, GPS location or recording when away, but it sounds like you don't need those. If you already have a spare thumb drive laying around, then there's no harm in trying it out as it just takes a few minutes to setup.

However, if you want a dedicated unit, then the Blackvue is probably your best bet. It runs directly off 12v, so you just need to run the power wire to the dome light assembly. No need for a voltage regulator. Or if wiring scares you, then any camera will come with a 12v plug and you just have to run the wire all the way down to the center console and plug in there.
I don't doubt that is the easiest solution, except as of 42.2 (latest with NoA) Tesla has not fixed the corruption issue. My drive was basically corrupted the next day I installed 42.2 (it was working at first). If you want to use dashcam you want to use a reliable one. Parking mode or not, the TeslaCam can't even record regular driving because of the frequent corruption issue. You never know when it will corrupt. That's the biggest drawback so far with this "easiest" solution. What's easiest might not be the most suitable or reliable. I would not recommend this method until they fix the corruption issue.

Blackvues have a single coax cable for both power and data for the rear camera.

A couple of notes on Blackvues:

They provide (in their documentation) a table of memory card size vs. resolution, frame rate, etc. In my old 500 dual HD setup (2013 S), I had a 32 Gb card and it would be good for a day or so. With my new 900 dual ultra HD system, I got the 128 Gb card, and get the same recording time (...more data). Also, the Blackvue does overwrite older 'routine' image data. But it saves (does not overwrite) Events, which are triggers usually due to excess G-forces (impacts). You set this up--so if your threshold for impact is low, you get a lot of stored clips which will rapidly fill up your card. Note that the Blackvue OEM cards are robust and durable. If you buy a new card, be sure to get one rated for extreme use in dash cams (hot, endless read-write cycles).

As far as using Parking Mode vs Time Lapse, if my memory serves me correctly (...always read and refer to the manual and documentation), if you have a big card, use Parking Mode. if you have a small card, use the time lapse 1 FPS mode.
If you have a DR900S it's better to use Time Lapse because of overheating issue. My DR900S overheats far more frequently than my 750 (never). It doesn't matter I am using a Samsung Endurance card it still happens. Switching to Time Lapse solves it.
 
If you have a DR900S it's better to use Time Lapse because of overheating issue. My DR900S overheats far more frequently than my 750 (never). It doesn't matter I am using a Samsung Endurance card it still happens. Switching to Time Lapse solves it.

FWIW I have the OEM 128 Gb card in my Blackvue and use Parking Mode (not Time Lapse)--no overheating, no errors, powered on 24/7 through the power tap in my Model 3 headliner. Been good for 4 weeks.
 
FWIW I have the OEM 128 Gb card in my Blackvue and use Parking Mode (not Time Lapse)--no overheating, no errors, powered on 24/7 through the power tap in my Model 3 headliner. Been good for 4 weeks.
Of course if you don't have overheating issue, it's more beneficial to use full time recording. I only get overheating issue when I am parked in wide uncovered parking lot in 90+ degrees weather (few months ago in SoCal). Now the weather is cooler I don't have it. Wait until next year summer time.
 
Of course if you don't have overheating issue, it's more beneficial to use full time recording. I only get overheating issue when I am parked in wide uncovered parking lot in 90+ degrees weather (few months ago in SoCal). Now the weather is cooler I don't have it. Wait until next year summer time.

Do you have Cabin Overheat protection on??? Maybe keeping the car at or below 103 degrees will help.
 
I posted this in the X forum but thought maybe someone here would know instead: My 2CH-900 seems to have died. There is no power anymore and I can't get it to turn on. I tried taking out the SD card and it seemed to have died a week ago, last recordings from parking mode (nothing shows happened). I tried holding the button down, I took out and replaced the SD card, and tried unplugging the cords and back in. From what I can tell the pins do not seem to be broken. Any ideas?

The only thing I can think of is about an hour or two after the last recording I did an insane launch but I've done plenty of those before. Any thoughts?
 
The factory dash cam is pretty poor for use where you need detail that counts and It may create additional drains as is on all the time when the car is off. The blackview cams are good but have poor software in general but improving and I can't see why anyone would use the could service. I have three of these cams and I took them off constant to switched power since they create cascading parasitic drains and trash the 12V battery. Any that needs to use it in parking mode may want to consider the external battery. Cycling the 12V and running the other systems in the car to do this is really a power suck. I got my S down to a 1% loss over several days using a battery tender when the cam was on parking mode it was 4X that and was really hard on the 12V. I plan to put a tender on my 3 pretty soon and remove the factory cam feature.
 
Have you left the car parked, unplugged for several days at a time? I leave my car at the airport 3-4 days each week and wonder if it would drain the 12v in that amount of time?
Yes, I have. When/if the 12V battery gets low enough, the main battery pack comes online and recharges it. You won't come back to a dead 12V battery. The only possible downside to the always-on cam is that you will put more cycles on the 12V battery quicker (but with the dashcam only pulling ~200mA, it's not going to be a huge difference), and possibly shorten it's lifespan. The way I see it, Tesla 12V batteries aren't known for their longevity, anyway.
 
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Yes, I have. When/if the 12V battery gets low enough, the main battery pack comes online and recharges it. You won't come back to a dead 12V battery. The only possible downside to the always-on cam is that you will put more cycles on the 12V battery quicker (but with the dashcam only pulling ~200mA, it's not going to be a huge difference), and possibly shorten it's lifespan. The way I see it, Tesla 12V batteries aren't known for their longevity, anyway.
Oh, did not know that, thanks.